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Thread: Distributor

Distributor Distributor
  1. #1
    TY # 1889
    vinnieTy's Avatar
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    Distributor

    What type of distributors are people using for their trucks for replacements? Are you going factory or with different brand like MSD?

    Thanks
    1993 Typhoon #1889 "AWDBOOST"

  2. #2
    Is this your bush? atkonkler's Avatar
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    Re: Distributor

    Might Suddenly Die/ MSD I've seen mixed reviews about....nothing wrong with factory stuff....IMO.....im sure someone will chime in concerning this also.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    "IF women don't find you handsome at least they can find you handy, but I guess I got best of both worlds I'm told"

    Build #1917 blk/blk

  3. #3
    TY # 1889
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    Re: Distributor

    That's what I have heard. I thought msd was the way to go until I read so many negative comments. I guess it all depends how lucky you are when you get it.
    1993 Typhoon #1889 "AWDBOOST"

  4. #4
    BuSTeD 4.3
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    Re: Distributor

    My 1st choice is to rebuild the stock one using ac delco components.
    Dave
    Sy #2661

  5. #5
    I pity da fool liquidswords88's Avatar
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    Re: Distributor

    I've ran msd stuff in race cars for years. There have been a few failures, mostly from user error. That being said in my ty I'm running a rebuilt factory dizzy.
    2nd place is the first loser!

  6. #6
    Its all ABOOT the SYTY eh Syclone Rob's Avatar
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    Re: Distributor

    I'm running the msd and so far so good.
    SY 0364 AFPR, Walbro, gilbert,relocated battery to box, removed ABS, Lowering springs, Rear sway bar, E-fan with Delta Current Controller, JSM 3" Stainless DP and RPM 3" stainless full exhaust. Jwaller Turbo. 60lb inj, TurboTweak Chip.
    Best time 2008
    13.1321@102.03mph 1.7722 60'
    Best time 2016
    ???

  7. #7
    Stab it and steer it
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    Re: Distributor

    I run a rebuilt (NAPA) stocker. Caution The dist has what, 3 jobs? Signal the ECM, signal the tach and put the rotor in the right place. The rotor is mostly our job... What it might look like is immaterial. Now what I can tell you is that the rotor and the cap are slightly out-of-phase. Just look at where the rotor is burnt and where the cap terminals are burnt. I modified a rotor to compensate. It was awhile back, I'll see if I can find some pics. (I would be interesting to see if an MSD dist fixes that.) Everyone seems to think that these motors are hard on caps and rotors. I respectfully disagree. My goofy rotor is 2 years old and the cap is at least one year old. And the truck is raced almost every week. In my experience its the dang wires. When I bought the Magnacor's awhile back I could tell the difference the moment it started. I haven't yet quite figured out how to keep the wires for cyl 2&4 fully protected. I have some new sleeve material I'm gonna try next.

    So IMHO go with a stocker, save the money, and buy good wires.

    Here's a pic of my modified rotor. Notice where the burnt area is.

    Dropbox - Rotor.jpg

    It may not make any difference but at least I feel better...
    If you can't fix it with a hammer you've got an electrical problem.

  8. #8
    I pity da fool liquidswords88's Avatar
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    Re: Distributor

    Quote Originally Posted by Don W. View Post
    I run a rebuilt (NAPA) stocker. Caution The dist has what, 3 jobs? Signal the ECM, signal the tach and put the rotor in the right place. The rotor is mostly our job... What it might look like is immaterial. Now what I can tell you is that the rotor and the cap are slightly out-of-phase. Just look at where the rotor is burnt and where the cap terminals are burnt. I modified a rotor to compensate. It was awhile back, I'll see if I can find some pics. (I would be interesting to see if an MSD dist fixes that.) Everyone seems to think that these motors are hard on caps and rotors. I respectfully disagree. My goofy rotor is 2 years old and the cap is at least one year old. And the truck is raced almost every week. In my experience its the dang wires. When I bought the Magnacor's awhile back I could tell the difference the moment it started. I haven't yet quite figured out how to keep the wires for cyl 2&4 fully protected. I have some new sleeve material I'm gonna try next.

    So IMHO go with a stocker, save the money, and buy good wires.

    Here's a pic of my modified rotor. Notice where the burnt area is.

    Dropbox - Rotor.jpg

    It may not make any difference but at least I feel better...




    Ditch your inner fenders and swing that downpipe out.



    2nd place is the first loser!

  9. #9
    TY # 1889
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    Re: Distributor

    Thanks guys for the information. I actually found an old thread that had recommendations besides the MSD units. .Distributor
    Just waiting to see if the good comments are still positive years later. They sell the units on amazon maybe worth a try.
    1993 Typhoon #1889 "AWDBOOST"

  10. #10
    Stab it and steer it
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    Re: Distributor

    Don't know about that but a wrap would certainly help!
    If you can't fix it with a hammer you've got an electrical problem.

  11. #11
    Is this your bush? atkonkler's Avatar
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    Re: Distributor

    Quote Originally Posted by Don W. View Post
    I run a rebuilt (NAPA) stocker. Caution The dist has what, 3 jobs? Signal the ECM, signal the tach and put the rotor in the right place. The rotor is mostly our job... What it might look like is immaterial. Now what I can tell you is that the rotor and the cap are slightly out-of-phase. Just look at where the rotor is burnt and where the cap terminals are burnt. I modified a rotor to compensate. It was awhile back, I'll see if I can find some pics. (I would be interesting to see if an MSD dist fixes that.) Everyone seems to think that these motors are hard on caps and rotors. I respectfully disagree. My goofy rotor is 2 years old and the cap is at least one year old. And the truck is raced almost every week. In my experience its the dang wires. When I bought the Magnacor's awhile back I could tell the difference the moment it started. I haven't yet quite figured out how to keep the wires for cyl 2&4 fully protected. I have some new sleeve material I'm gonna try next.

    So IMHO go with a stocker, save the money, and buy good wires.

    Here's a pic of my modified rotor. Notice where the burnt area is.

    Dropbox - Rotor.jpg

    It may not make any difference but at least I feel better...
    It may depend on humidity....mumber of times vehicle is driven....etc....always good info though!

    Thanks

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    "IF women don't find you handsome at least they can find you handy, but I guess I got best of both worlds I'm told"

    Build #1917 blk/blk

  12. #12
    Moderator Sean Krupa's Avatar
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    Re: Distributor

    Hey Don, what exactly did you modify on your Rotor? What's the benefit?

    Thanks
    1993 GMC Typhoon #1215 (10.71@124MPH Stock Bottom End)
    Typhoon 2.0 Build: 10.49 @129 Forged Internals, Block Fill, 4 bolt, High Compression, Brodix -8 Ported Heads, Custom Cam, Headers, E85, Holley Dominator, Built 4L80e

  13. #13
    Stab it and steer it
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    Re: Distributor

    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Krupa View Post
    Hey Don, what exactly did you modify on your Rotor? What's the benefit?

    Thanks
    You can see from the link I posted how I modified the tip. You can see where it's burnt. I was frustrated to figure out that the rotor and cap were so far off. Knowing that these engines need good spark under load I dreamed this up. It's the tip of a, gasp, Ford rotor spliced onto ours. Whither it helps any I really don't know. What DID help was switching to the Magnacor wires. The improvement there was immediate and measurable at the track although I don't remember the actual improvement it was in the range of a tenth in E.T. Quite noticeable throughout the RPM range from idle to F.T.
    If you can't fix it with a hammer you've got an electrical problem.

  14. #14
    Member StuckinCincy's Avatar
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    Re: Distributor

    I just replaced my MSD for the second time. The spacing between the rotor and the coil terminal on the cap was too close, melted the button and rotor, and the module went bad again after less than 2000 miles. The first one didn't make it to 2000 miles either, but MSD did a warranty replacement based on mileage even the it was past the date limit by more than a year. Not sure if the melted parts had anything to do with the module going bad or not. I also didn't like that I couldn't easily replace just the ignition module since it's soldered to the pickup. (I cut the wires from at the module and attached some wire terminals to make it removable before I noticed the melted parts.) I got a stock Cardone replacement from Summit that looks pretty close to billet and works just as well as the MSD did when it was new.

  15. #15
    TY # 1889
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    Re: Distributor

    Quote Originally Posted by dgoodhue View Post
    My 1st choice is to rebuild the stock one using ac delco components.
    I wouldn't mind to do that but where can i get the correct parts i need?
    1993 Typhoon #1889 "AWDBOOST"

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