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Thread: Syclone Missfiring

Syclone Missfiring Syclone Missfiring
  1. #16
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    Don W.'s Avatar
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    Quote Originally Posted by Slyclone View Post
    This is What I use for.removal of dist.

    Special distributor wrench.

    snap on makes them. Both of mine are vintage the 9/16 is # S9626. Personally wouldnt mess with it if you dont have correct tool. I played around with short stubby flank wrenches and Its just insane.

    Im wondering if you popped one of your Pistons? Do you have a stock bottom End? How was your driving style before the tune up?

    Compression test might be a better choice. Would solve a mega-ton of guessing.
    Ya, the one on the left (in your hand) might work OK. The other one looks like the handle part might be going the wrong direction. Snap On wanted almost $30.00 for a 1/4 drive 9/16 wobble. I picked one up from an independent guy for like $8.00. 3/8 doesn't fit well if at all, 1/4 drive gets down there pretty easy.
    If you can't fix it with a hammer you've got an electrical problem.

  2. #17
    Super Member Slyclone's Avatar
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    The one on left, in hand is v6/v8 specific. Hit or Miss if you eBay them... I believe I picked it up for $12.00. The smaller one is I believe a buick/cadillac specific dist wrench Its 1/2 #S8173 I found the smaller one and just keep them with the specitly tools.

    Just sharing What I use. I remeber battling it out with extensions, swivels, wobbles and stubby hand wrenches.
    1991 Syclone #678.
    1992 Typhoon #413 Sold


    - When the turbo spins the bullshit ends.

  3. #18
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    Don W.'s Avatar
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    No kidding on that dist hold-down. There are two issues, the crossover for the fuel rail -and- the inj harness. It helps quite a bit to get the inj harness between the rail and the manifold. After that, to each his own. Funny how all that works. I've never had much luck with those wrenches. Most folks like them.
    If you can't fix it with a hammer you've got an electrical problem.

  4. #19
    Member SycloneAndSHO's Avatar
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    Quote Originally Posted by IGottaSy View Post
    Check for spark plug wire arcing, again. Some of these plug wires can be damaged easily just by excessive bending or rough handling during packaging. What gap did you go with for the plugs? People have asked questions to help you in figuring out what is going on. Some of those have not been answered. The more you know...
    Do you have hard starts? Where's your IAC reading?
    I checked for arcing again at night time, and wiggled all of the wires around. I could not find any arcing, and the truck continued to run the same. I gapped the plugs to 0.025. I'm not sure what questions I didn't answer? I thought I got them all. I want to make sure I get every question answered because I really want this truck to run right. If theres anything I missed, please let me know. The truck always starts just fine, although sometimes it seems to have a slow crank, but the battery checked out fine. That may just be the connection though. After work tomorrow (Monday), I'm going to due some work on the truck, and try out everything mentioned. I'll be sure to do a compression test too. I'll get back to you on the IAC as well. The truck was running at a really high rpm (around 1400) After I did a Data log on the truck, which I'm going to try to get posted asap.

  5. #20
    Member SycloneAndSHO's Avatar
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    Quote Originally Posted by Don W. View Post
    For the dist I use a 1/4 drive 9/16 wobble socket on a long extension. Works like a champ. Lot of stuff in the way down there. I've also used a short 9/16 box. No fun. Funny story here. When I first bought my truck I went to set the timing and the dist was just sitting there. The hold down was just siting there loose.

    You need to pull down the ECM (behind the glove box) and take the cover off, if the you see a blue cover it's a stock chip. With the mods you mention I suspect it does but you need to find out.

    Find a different auto parts store and find some heat sink compound and put it under the ign module. You can do this without removing the dist. Some of your symptoms jive with an overheated ign module.

    If the FPR has a screw on top then it's adjustable. Remove the vac line and reset FP to 40 with motor running.

    If you can screw both dist cap screws down then the cap is not on wrong.

    How did you change the knock sensor without removing the dist? Probably not your problem in the beginning but probably is now. If you screwed the knock sensor in tight then it's probably seeing non existent knock and may be part of your problems. It has to be torqued to a specific torque. 14 ft/lbs Do not use any sealant, only what it came with.

    Are you getting any codes?
    I'll definitely stop by a store and pick up some of that heat transfer compound, and the tools I need to remove the distributor. I'll also rent a compression tester and check the compression. I'll set the fuel pressure to 40 too.

    Both screws on the cap are all the way down, so it's definitely seated right.

    As for the knock sensor, I don't quite remember, but it was a pain in the ass, and I used a long extension, and fished my arm down there. I replaced it because I had no knock reading on my Tunerpro readings, and still don't after. It didn't change the way the truck is running. And I didn't torque it with a torque wrench, I just torqued it by hand to what I thought was about right, which is probably close to 14 ft lbs. I can try to re torque it though. I have no check engine light on, but I'll pull codes anyway tomorrow. I did have a code 42 not too long ago on my truck, but the light went back off and hasn't come back since.

    The PROM chip in my truck is blue, so I believe it's a stock chip.

  6. #21
    Member SycloneAndSHO's Avatar
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    Quote Originally Posted by Slyclone View Post
    This is What I use for.removal of dist.

    Special distributor wrench.

    snap on makes them. Both of mine are vintage the 9/16 is # S9626. Personally wouldnt mess with it if you dont have correct tool. I played around with short stubby flank wrenches and Its just insane.

    Im wondering if you popped one of your Pistons? Do you have a stock bottom End? How was your driving style before the tune up?

    Compression test might be a better choice. Would solve a mega-ton of guessing.
    I'll be doing a compression test tomorrow to see. I'll do that before messing around with the distributor.

    As far as the bottom end, I am quite positive it is stock, and I have never removed any of the internal components. I've had this truck a little over a year, and finally got it on the road a few months ago. Just haven't really been able to enjoy it though because of the issues it has.

    One thing I'm worried about **(and I hope everyone reads this)** Is that it May have a rod knock, or some kind of knock. At a certain rpm, when I'm going up a grade, (which I do alot since I live in the mountains), the truck will begin to shake and shutter. It will stop if I let back off the gas, or give it more gas so that it downshifts, and goes into a little bit of boost. It doesn't seem to do this, unless I'm going up hill.

    And I didn't really drive the truck before the tune up, I just gave it a tune up because it wasn't running all that great. My driving style right now is extremely gentle, and avoiding any boost if possible.

  7. #22
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    COMPRESSION TEST RESULTS:

    Cylinder#

    6 - 129 Psi

    4 - 126 Psi

    2 - 125 Psi

    5 - 125 Psi

    3 - 126 Psi

    1 - 128 Psi

    That's don't sound too bad does it ?

    Working on getting the data logs uploaded right now.

  8. #23
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    Don W.'s Avatar
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    You said timing jumped at a certain RPM. Probably shouldn’t do that although I’ve never revved a Sy motor beyond maybe a 1000 RPM when setting timing. If that.

    “And a few other things that probably reduce performance.” What things?

    You might pull a valve cover and check the part number of the head. Someone might have thrown Vortec covers on there just to fool everyone.

    .025 is a bit tight actually for a stock truck. Might try .030

    “The truck was running at a really high rpm (around 1400) After I did a Data log on the truck, which I'm going to try to get posted asap.” A data log should not affect RPM. It’s just a log. It has no control over anything.

    What was the IAC number?

    Code 42 is the ign module or its wiring. You need to see if there is a stored code. Or just remove ECM fuse B for a minute or 2 which will reset the ECM. If you again see the CEL (except with key on and engine off) then that has to be figured out.

    From the sounds of things “the truck will begin to shake and shutter.” Under load going up hill you have an ign issue of some kind. You would hear real knock.

    As far as the knock sensor is concerned start a log with engine running tap on the block (the book says lift hook) and see if you get knock indicated.You said timing jumped at a certain RPM. Probably shouldn’t do that although I’ve never revved a Sy motor beyond maybe a 1000 RPM when setting timing. If that.

    “And a few other things that probably reduce performance.” What things?

    You might pull a valve cover and check the part number of the head. Someone might have thrown Vortec covers on there just to fool everyone.

    .025 is a bit tight actually for a stock truck. Might try .030

    “The truck was running at a really high rpm (around 1400) After I did a Data log on the truck, which I'm going to try to get posted asap.” A data log should not affect RPM. It’s just a log. It has control over anything.

    What was the IAC number?

    Code 42 is the ign module or its wiring. You need to see if there is a stored code. Or just remove ECM fuse B for a minute or 2 which will reset the ECM. If you again see the CEL (except with key on and engine off) then that has to be figured out.

    From the sounds of things “the truck will begin to shake and shutter.” Under load going up hill you have an ign issue of some kind. You would hear real knock.

    As far as the knock sensor is concerned start a log with engine running tap on the block (the book says lift hook) and see if you get knock indicated.

    Let us know all these results.
    If you can't fix it with a hammer you've got an electrical problem.

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  10. #24
    Senior Member IGottaSy's Avatar
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    Can you please post a couple of pics of the spark plugs, both banks if possible?

    You mention it's running terrible lately, have you been driving it continuously? Have you gone through several tanks of fresh gas? These trucks are notorious for having super loud injectors which can be mistaken for knocking. IMHO, you timing is off by a degree or so, you have a weak fuel pump or faulty wiring or need to replace the fuel filter or you have bad fuel in the tank. Could also be a combination of all that. The ignition module getting hot cannot be discarded.
    1. How old is your fuel filter?
    2. How does your fuel pressure look under load?
    3. Is the gas in the tank fresh and running the highest octane gas you can find?
    4. What chip do you have? Pics might help
    5. Are able to log now? Please post a log
    6. O2 xcounts?
    I haven't read info on those questions. Maybe I missed it.
    IGottaSy so IWannaTy no longer.

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  11. #25
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    He said FP was 46. I think he brought it down to 40 with vac line off. He said the "chip" had a blue cover indicating a stock chip. Another question would be what injectors are in the thing? I'm with you on everything. And another is the knock sensor, he says he's not showing any. How do you install it at 14 ftlbs without a torque wrench?

    We seem to be going in circles but based on everything I think it's ignition. But it certainly could be fuel like you suggest.

    He says it has Vortec heads. I suggested he pull a valve cover and check the part number. An easier suggestion would be to just look at the intake to see if it has been modified for Vortecs.
    If you can't fix it with a hammer you've got an electrical problem.

  12. #26
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    [IMG][/IMG]



    Here are a couple pictures of my plugs I took yesterday. I will get back to you and everyone else as soon as I get off work and work on it more

    I also took a video of my data log. IM just going to upload it to youtube and leave a link.

  13. #27
    Senior Member IGottaSy's Avatar
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    We're all trying to help. I don't mean to come across like an "eye-sole". I asked for fuel pressure UNDER load meaning going down the road and reading pressure other than at idle. I'd go back to stock plugs. Those do weird things with ignition setup in these trucks.
    IGottaSy so IWannaTy no longer.

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  14. #28
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    I haven't gotten to that yet, I'm at work right now. I took those pictures yesterday when I did the compression test. I will get you, and Don Ws answers as soon as I get home to do more on it. It's also pretty difficult to work on when it's 100+ degrees out. I'm doing the best I can

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  16. #29
    Combating adversyty. Quickstop [UK]'s Avatar
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    If you do indeed have vortec heads, those are the wrong plugs. UR5s are for stock LB4 heads, you need TR5 or TR6 for vortecs.

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  18. #30
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    Re: Syclone Missfiring

    Ya, the only Vortecs that I'm familiar with take the long reach (thread) plug. These plugs look like the motor is running rich. See if you can post a pic looking at the ends, not the sides.
    If you can't fix it with a hammer you've got an electrical problem.

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