What a Fuster Cluck.
It looks like the spring will rub on the shock tower if you move the spacer from the top to the bottom.
Here is the issue! Look @ my spacer and your spacer. Big Diffrence.
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THis is the problem its not allowing the spring to go up higher away from the axle.
who's kit did you buy.
Ralph
Noticed the bottom shock eyelet spacer-you really have to play around with washers to place the shock-sometimes all the way to the "front" or "back" with no washers on one side and load up the opposite side with washers . Then when it all clears you can measure the thickness of your washers and get RPM to cut the exact size to replace the "washers. If you decide the ride height is not what you want - you'll have to again grind the locknut and so forth. I think every install is different being things from the factory are not exact being tolerances are +/- and the +/- all add up. Just have to play with the washers at the shocks and be patient.
Looks good. Everything was a tight fit on mine on the passenger side as well. Mine is touching a little bit on the inside of the shock tower also, but it is very little so I'm not too worried. I don't know why but your clearance to the CV is a little tighter than mine. These trucks are weird. :dunno:
Thanks man, I appreciate that. There's no metal-on-metal contact anywhere with the wheels cranked lock-to-lock or the control arms fully extended/compressed, so I'm not too worried about it at this point. I was just concerned about the inner CV boot rubbing/melting and spewing grease everywhere, leading to premature joint failure. I suppose I'll have to keep a close eye on it after I get the truck back on the road. If I find it's rubbing after the suspension settles, I'll pull the shock back out and do more grinding. One thing I noticed is the turning radius seems wider, which I'm not thrilled about. Can anyone confirm this? Am I still going to be able to make u-turns without having to back up? Despite the major headache of installing this, I'm pretty stoked about the weight savings as it removes a ton of heavy metal from the front of the truck. Between the coil-overs and 4l80e conversion, I must removed ~150 lbs. of dead weight![]()
I noticed the holes for the sway bar in the lower control arms are too shallow and aren't tapped. I guess I'm supposed drill through the obstruction and then tap these? Anyone know what tap to use? Hopefully, everything lines up when I try to reinstall the swaybar. Last time I reconnected the bar, I had to lower the truck and load the suspension to get the brackets and holes to line up (not fun at all).
Last time I reconnected the bar, I had to lower the truck and load the suspension to get the brackets and holes to line up (not fun at all).
OK, so I need to either drill the swaybar holes deeper or cut the bolts shorter? I figured as much, but nothing was mentioned in the instructions. Thanks for the pointers guys.