For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

[George Blake]

This thing does NOT want to go in the truck. First I took the center support for the stock intercooler off. It won't remotely fit with that on there.
Went to slide it on....won't go over the 3 studs.....drilled it to the next size up....goes a little further and then hangs up. Went to file the suface down after drilled them out a little bigger, the surface isn't remotely flat. Is there a gasket or some type of form-a-gasket that goes in there?
Last thing, started looking really close. There is no way for the nut to go back on that stud once the pipe is on....What did you guys do about this? Even an allen bolt will be damn close but for that I'd have to extract the studs..
Also, mine has 4 bolt holes instead of three. My turbo has 3. There's not a provision for the 4th. What am I supposed to do there?
I'm concerned with a leak there because it has the extra "pipe" that kinda hangs down and there is nothing to "hold" the bottom against the turbo.
I pulled my whole drivetrain out and didn't take this long. This has been 2 hours messing with this thing.
It is damn close to the frame. DAMN close. The engine torques that way. How much clearance should I have there. I'm wondering if I should grind the frame down some.

 

[SonomaGTlover]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

I am still waiting for my DP but I pray I do not have these issues with mine.It was suposed to be a bolt on application for stock turbo. Jeff, please reassure us that something has gone terribly wrong and it is just a simple oversight that can easily be corrected.

 

[BigBadSmoosh]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

umm, i believe it was known that you'd have to drill and tap a hole for the downpipe on the exhaust side of the turbo.. that is the point.. get rid of the puck and get better boost control..

if i remember correctly this was one of the major selling points of the 3" dp from JSM..

I haven't attempted to put mine in yet, because my syclone is in lots of pieces.. but it looked like it would fit no problem when laid out next to the stock downpipe.

 

[JSM]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

As I mentioned you must use allen head cap screws, which I used on every pipe to hold down the the welding fixture.

The 4th hole is optional, you can drill tap the housing, or you can leave it with just 3.

If you motor mount is old and sagging it will be close to the frame.

I have a modded exhaust housing with the puck removed already you can have George if you want.

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Where was all this stuff mentioned at? I went through the thread and couldn't find it.
What size allen head screws?
So I don't have to drill and tap the turbo? If I do, I will. The holes do not line up. Red RTV? Like I said, surface isn't remotely flat. Filed it for about 10 minutes and then gave up.
No, don't want another project, just wanted to bolt this on like it was supposed to. Should I dremel the holes out? The bigger I make the holes, the closer to the pipe it gets with no surface for the bolt head to catch. It was so supposed to be a side project, not the whole project. I've still gotta put my trans in and do the brakes and suspension on the front.
Did you mock this up on any trucks that did NOT have the solid mounts?
The solid mounts move everything up 1/2". I'm well aware of this.I do not plan on using solid mounts.

 

[JSM]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Where was all this stuff mentioned at? I went through the thread and couldn't find it.
What size allen head screws?
So I don't have to drill and tap the turbo? If I do, I will. The holes do not line up. Red RTV? Like I said, surface isn't remotely flat. Filed it for about 10 minutes and then gave up.
No, don't want another project, just wanted to bolt this on like it was supposed to. Should I dremel the holes out? The bigger I make the holes, the closer to the pipe it gets with no surface for the bolt head to catch. It was so supposed to be a side project, not the whole project. I've still gotta put my trans in and do the brakes and suspension on the front.
Did you mock this up on any trucks that did NOT have the solid mounts?
The solid mounts move everything up 1/2". I'm well aware of this.I do not plan on using solid mounts.

Post #207 in gp thread refers to it there, might be more references. I ddin't read every post.

10mm x 1.5

Yes, before I sold the rat I had installed the dp on it, I figured with 84k miles, no maintenance it was worse case scenerio. It fit, as did all the others that installed from the GP. Ian noted between his truck and his dad's he saw different clearance. The jig I make them on won't allow for large changes he saw. The welder friend that helped me on the project and myself spent several nights getting the protype right, and the jig so it would repeat.

 

[91blazins10]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Mine went on no problem with stock mounts it takes a little time to line everything up, I just cut it up recently and added a cutout in the flat spot before the cat and after I did that it required a few hits with a deadblow hammer to line back up again but I must say with the cutout I noticed a major increase in power plus theres that cool sound when you let off and you can hear the turbo still spooling.

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Mine was stainless. None of the holes line up just right and the surface isn't flat. I can take pics if you guys want. Turbo has gotta come off now. First stud came right out with the heat. 2nd broke off. There goes that little "side job".

 

[skwayb]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

That is strange mine is stainless and the prototype DP Jeff made. It went on like cake. No real issues at all. The only thing I I had to do was the old DP was welded to the CAT so I had to sawsall the old DP off the CAT and then cut some length off the back half of the 2nd half of the DP so I could swing it up and put a temp. cupler on it. I had a ton of room between the frame. Everything fit well.

I would take pictures but my Turbo bit it and I went to a PTE turbo. Jeff made me a new Upper half of the DP that bolts to the turbo with the flapper built into the flange (thanks to e-rue at Turbotime for the flange and flapper.

Here is what the new Upper DP looks like.

 

[Foot Performance]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

still got the old top half and who coated th exhaust housing (sorry to change the topic)

 

[skwayb]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Trying not to hijack the thread.. I got it coated by http://www.performancecoatings.com/ . Upper half already spoken for. Sorry.

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Paul, your whole thing was off the truck. You've got bolts in the manifold instead of nuts on studs and your turbo looks like it's been massaged so to speak. I was under the distinct impression that it bolted right on. You know? Take off the old downpipe slide it on and go on. I didn't want to remove the turbo, drill out studs and all that mess. Of course I have to now. Apples and oranges. You have solid engine mounts or stock mounts? Solids move the engine up 1/2". Pretty common.
Jeff coming over Sunday with the back half of the turbo already modified to fit. I'll work on my downpipe tomorrow and get it flattened out. It's just gonna take some time. A little birdie told me my pipe sat in the corner of the shop for the longest time because it was a stainless model and they were warping during welding and required a lot of time on the belt sander. I know what happened. Now it's a matter of getting it in mine. If I have to grind the frame, I will grind the frame. But I'm not doing solid mounts yet. Maybe later but I'm NOT doing them right now.
I've got two of the bolts out of the turbo manifold. Gotta figure out how to get the other two out since sockets don't fit down on them and an open end wrench just opens up and slips off when doing that. This is the stuff I did not intend to be messing with.

 

[JSM]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Yours sat in garage for awhile since it was marked for you from day 1, not because it was warped more than any others. Sunday I will bring my belt sander if that helps.

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Yours sat in garage for awhile since it was marked for you from day 1, not because it was warped more than any others. Sunday I will bring my belt sander if that helps.

OK

Don't be a smart ass again, I'll have it flattened out by then.

 

[skwayb]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Paul, your whole thing was off the truck. You've got bolts in the manifold instead of nuts on studs and your turbo looks like it's been massaged so to speak. I was under the distinct impression that it bolted right on. You know? Take off the old downpipe slide it on and go on. I didn't want to remove the turbo, drill out studs and all that mess. Of course I have to now. Apples and oranges. You have solid engine mounts or stock mounts? Solids move the engine up 1/2". Pretty common.

The pics are of my new PTE version of the DP. When Jeff helped put the 80e in, we put the 3" DP on my stock turbo. It was a direct bolt on. Basically I had to take the studs out of the exhuast housing and then I put in allen head bolts in place. I only used 3 bolts to put it back on. One of them is hard to get on since it is close to where the DP and flange were weled together but it fits. Getting them bolts off the exhaust manifold are a differnet story. they are bitch.. that is forsure. We heated mine up to get them rusty bastards off.

 

[Loeryder]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Damnit George, now you have me on the fence about slapping mine on right before I leave for Nats.

Plan was to get it drivable this weekend so we can move it to a garage and out of a metal storage locker.
Then next weekend swap the DP and do the mods to the turbo.
I won't have a spare exhaust housing to switch back to if I don't get it done in time either.

grrr decisions decisions...

 

[warmpancakes]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

George just sell me the pipe and the problem is solved

 

[91blazins10]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

I sprayed the studs down with pb blaster and let it sit in there overnight and bought a stud removal tool and they came right off.

 

[ashman]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

two of my studs broke and it was a F'N BIT*H to get them out. i also had to "open" the holes slightly and grind down the head (diameter wise) of the allen bolts.

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

I sprayed the studs down with pb blaster and let it sit in there overnight and bought a stud removal tool and they came right off.

Can you take a pic or have an actual name for the stud removal tool you used. Internet has a million listing for stud removal tools and none I have found so far seem appropriate. Most are for pulling out studs, not unscrewing them.
Got the turbo off. Took an 1/8" carbide dremel bit and went just inside the nut on the exhaust manifold and made enough room that the 15mm impact socket (narrow wall) would fit on it. Screwed right off.
The top one toward the front....15mm shallow impact fit right on it. I use 3 wobble extensions, took it out to the wheel well and put a cheater bar on it. Popped right loose. Of course this was after I torched them all and douched them with oil.
Still trying to figure out how to get the stud out of the turbo. I may go ahead and get another wastgate setup since mine is corroded so bad. This just isn't what I wanted to do right now. Now Drivetrain is out, turbo is out and the torsion bars and all of that is out, now the coil overs are gonna have to wait a bit so I can get going on some of this other stuff. F**king sytys anyway.