Re: What axles?
You're right about a bunch of things...
The difference between the 7.5" and the 7.625" is the axle spline count....26 vs 28....I don't know if the housings are any stronger.....The A & G bodies have the 26 spline axle, the 4th gen Camaro's have the 28 spline.
I've got one of the POS's in my '93 Z28. Put the 3rd set of gears in it a week ago. Yes, it has 148k on it, yes its a manual trans, and yes, I'm kinda hard on it. But the last set of gears gave up without any drama (just started whining). At least the previous set went BANG. Took 2 teeth off the pinion in both cases. Why did GM put that thing in there? Should have got the 8.5" 10-bolt in the first place.
I know the 8.5" 2wd axle exists, because one of my ex-coworkers had one in his S10 pickup, which I think was a 2001.
If you ever search Car-Part.com, seems like every yard around has an 8.5" rear. But you call them, make them verify (with pictures) and miraculously, it turns back into a 7.5". Funny, but not really.
Another way to tell the 7.5" & 8.5" apart is the "lugs" on the bottom of the case (centersection). The 7.5" has 2 lugs that are "teeth" shaped, (triangular). Makes me think of Dracula, I want to suck all the $$$ out of your wallet. The 8.5" has 2 lugs that are mostly rectangular (with the long side parallel to the ground). I've seen some pictures around that do a much better job of identifying the difference, but I'm lazy right at the moment.
The 4wd's use the high positive offset wheels for a reason. It's to reduce scrub radius to zero (or close to it). I believe the reason that zero scrub radius is desirable is to help minimize torque steer. I'm not 100% on that being the reason, however.....
Just to be warned, a 8.5" S10 junkyard rear is still a good way to spend a bunch of money. The 8.5" was still available either as an open diff or a limited slip. The open diff isn't very desirable from a performance aspect, so expect to spend $$$ fixing that.
And the limited slip that GM uses in the truck platforms is a POS. To be specific, its an Eaton Gov-Loc. Its something that bugged the heck out of me when I had it in my Suburban (got rid of the truck).
Here's how it (doesn't) works: It's activated by a difference in relative speed between the two axle shafts (difference has to be 100rpm or more). At that point, it activates the clutch packs to lock the rear up, and hopefully stop the spinning. It also has a centrifugal element, so that it stops engaging above 25mph. If you engage it below 25 mph, it'll stay engaged until you lift off the throttle, but won't re-engage until you're below 25mph and have wheelspin (enough for that 100rpm difference). They're also notorious for being grenades (cases are weak).
So, you're really spending a fair chunk of money on a rear that doesn't have a decent limited slip available, and if you've got to change that, you're going to need to put at least bearings and probably gears in it as well. Basically, you'll spend a fair bit more than the $400 it'll cost you at the yard, and that doesn't include upgrading axle shafts (to aftermarket ones, which probably isn't necessary) or upgrading to C-Clip eliminators (which if you're running drum brakes is just short of mandatory, disk brakes will typically act as axle retainers in the event of a break, but that does depend upon the disk brake setup).
'JustDreamin'