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Old 03-17-2008, 10:13 PM   #31
George Blake
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Re: Slicks question

YES. Finally someone puts it out there how you break stuff. Loading and unloading repeatedly. Sounds simple but guys still do it. A TH400 or 80e will essentially be doing a "neutral drop" if you spin it up and then let it "grab" 2nd. They WILL bust sprags that way. Get in it, stay in it. I've watched Frank do it really well. Everyone liked the NHRA sanctioned burnout (20 or 30 yards long). But yeah, getting on it and letting it hook WILL break stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ed hess
heck yeah its hard on the drivetrain...but hey

it goes with the program...

i mean everything about racing is hard on everything.

there is an exception to this.

whats hard on the drivetrain is when you spin and hook.

the trick is to get into it and say into it enough so that it doesnt hook.

its spining and hook, then spin and hook again thats hard on stuff.

i.e. loading and unloading repeatedly.

ed
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Old 03-18-2008, 09:08 AM   #32
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Re: Slicks question

I couldnt get my MT ET's off the rear of my z28 for a month ... and ran them to work and back ... in the rain or sun (800+ miles). They still look brand new , even after a night at the track.

They are not safe by any means on a rwd only car , but with the front tires helping you ... I wouldnt worry a bit ---
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:29 AM   #33
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Re: Slicks question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don W.
Since they know me at the track I'll have a chat with the starting line crew and see what I do. I've got stock front brakes and the rear brake mod but it usually starts pushing through the brakes above, say, 5# of boost. Might be interesting to try once. They're pretty good at Infineon, don't think I've ever seen them mopping while someone is doing a burnout. Yikes!

Gotta get the DR's first though... Either that or get the 2 step, real slicks, and switch classes.

Thanks.

You'll like the Mickeys.... of everything we've had on the GN (Hoosier, BFG,Nitto, M/T), the Mickey DRs work the best.

Do the neutral vacuum thing in the bleach box... with your fronts out of the box, you should be able to get more boost than that. 7/8" cyls in the back help a bunch, too.

You'll also find that with the burnout + DRs, you won't see the line push as bad.
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Old 03-18-2008, 03:25 PM   #34
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Re: Slicks question

I going with the hoosier QTP's I have two friends running them here in Vegas. 1 is a 600hp turbo comaro running 10.02 @ 135 with a 1.4 sixty with a small burn out and the other is a 600hp+ AWD DSM running 9.4 @ 145 with a 1.4 - 60 no burn out.. Here is vid of the DSM..

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...5b00e2087e.htm
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Old 03-18-2008, 09:53 PM   #35
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Re: Slicks question

Don't know about the Hoosier's but the Mickey's are good tires, so are the M&H's even though they don't get a lot of play. They are real under rated tires and don't play into the "smoke & hype" advertising wars of the other larger name brands. The BFG's are better than the Nitto's IMO for an around town driver but they ALL suck pretty bad in the rain.

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Old 03-18-2008, 11:10 PM   #36
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Re: Slicks question

I think burnouts (and the tires that require them) are a bad idea.

The few SyTy'ers I know who do burnouts before a run, are also the same guys who seem to have the most transmission and drivetrain failures. IIRC, I witnessed Mark Larson snap his transfer case chain at the KC Nats during one of these burnouts on Dig's weld/hoosiers. He went back to Minnesota on the trailer. In my experience it would take a lot of power to spin a SyTy's tires enough to heat up the tires and clean all the water off. Any time I've tried "cleaning my tires off", it felt like I was beating the shit out of my truck and extremely harsh on the drivetrain. Ed Hess snapped the output shaft on a TH400 (correct me if I'm wrong).

I don't know what kind of tracks you guys race on, but the ones I've raced on, you can never tell exactly what's going to happen with your tires until you try. So it's not a matter of "Just don't let them chatter." It's a matter of, you give it a shot, and sometimes it will spin, some times it will chatter violently and the rear axle wraps up and loads/unloads. The only way to avoid it is to not do burnouts at all.

I have heard that BFG DR's and green dots are both soft enough to hook without a burnout. I don't know anything about the "cold hook" of the M/T ET DR's.
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Old 03-18-2008, 11:25 PM   #37
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Re: Slicks question

Josh, since we race at the same track, what do you run for tires? also what kind of steps do you take before a run?

I have had good luck at GLD with street tires that werent old and hard and also BFG DR's with no burnout. I drive around the water, dryhop to the line and go for it.
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Old 03-19-2008, 07:27 AM   #38
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Re: Slicks question

The simple thing to do is to put in the 4x4 passenger side axle and tube, the cable and then be able to do all the burn out you want. Then put it back in awd and run. No worrie about chatter or hitting some dipshit that steps out in front of you.
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Old 03-19-2008, 08:24 AM   #39
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Re: Slicks question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick87
The simple thing to do is to put in the 4x4 passenger side axle and tube, the cable and then be able to do all the burn out you want. Then put it back in awd and run. No worrie about chatter or hitting some dipshit that steps out in front of you.
maybe you missed what i said above.. but if someone steps out in front of you at the line it should not matter. (btw if they are a dumbass and the guy manageing the burnout box allready gave you a thumbs up...)

when you let go of the brake at full throttle and it begins to spin. you are almost imediatley off the thrttle and back on the brake.

done right you will not move very far and should be only halfway at most from where you started to the the line. you are not even close to doing a burnout across the line.

ed
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Old 03-19-2008, 09:27 AM   #40
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Re: Slicks question

Quote:
Originally Posted by sy#2921
Josh, since we race at the same track, what do you run for tires? also what kind of steps do you take before a run?

I have had good luck at GLD with street tires that werent old and hard and also BFG DR's with no burnout. I drive around the water, dryhop to the line and go for it.
GLD is a junk track, you will hook better outside the gate on Highway KR or whatever its called.

I put my truck sideways on 4 nittos at GLD.
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Old 03-19-2008, 11:15 AM   #41
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Re: Slicks question

you can say GLD has it days. Some nights it is like an ice skating rink and some nights it can actually hook. I have always had better luck there at GLD than at byron and also been treated better as a racer. It seems to me at byron you have to be a big dog to get any respect.
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Old 03-19-2008, 11:21 AM   #42
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Re: Slicks question

Quote:
Originally Posted by sy#2921
you can say GLD has it days. Some nights it is like an ice skating rink and some nights it can actually hook. I have always had better luck there at GLD than at byron and also been treated better as a racer. It seems to me at byron you have to be a big dog to get any respect.
Very true about Byron.

41 isn't bad but when you are hitting digits itll get a little scary past the 1/8th, but for tracks around here 41 hooks by far better than any of them if you want to make that drive.

Sorry to hijack
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Old 03-19-2008, 11:33 AM   #43
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Re: Slicks question

I'm assuming if the truck is equipped with a transbrake, you would just skip all the "hold the brakes" stuff and just bring up the boost on the transbrake and then release, correct?
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Old 03-19-2008, 11:37 AM   #44
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Re: Slicks question

with a transbrake you should load the suspension first then engage the transbrake so there is no slop in the drivetrain.
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Old 03-19-2008, 11:43 AM   #45
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Re: Slicks question

Meaning bring up the boost on the brakes and then engage the transbrake? I've never tried to engage the TB at anything other than idle... something in that equation doesn't seem comfortable.
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