craig jones
Formerly Scary Phoon
Im trying to find a 99-present 4l80e w 4x4 tailshaft. Just need a core to rebuild.
trying to find a 99-present 4l80e transmission core
- Thread starter craig jones
- Start date
Xtrempickup
All turbo All the time
Re: trying to find a 99-present 4l80e transmission core
have you tried using craigzoom.com and going through cl quickly>? i found a few pretty quickly in my area
have you tried using craigzoom.com and going through cl quickly>? i found a few pretty quickly in my area
craig jones
Formerly Scary Phoon
Re: trying to find a 99-present 4l80e transmission core
The scrap yards around rockford are bare and when I did find a 4l80e they want $200+ for a core! I can't get a direct answer what's different w pre 99 from current models? I have to be able to bolt this up to a 2000 model year 5.3 ls crate! Any info would be great because a local scrap yard has a 1997 4 wheel 4l80e I would like to pick up if it will work for me!
The scrap yards around rockford are bare and when I did find a 4l80e they want $200+ for a core! I can't get a direct answer what's different w pre 99 from current models? I have to be able to bolt this up to a 2000 model year 5.3 ls crate! Any info would be great because a local scrap yard has a 1997 4 wheel 4l80e I would like to pick up if it will work for me!
mattw
Active member
Re: trying to find a 99-present 4l80e transmission core
I found this somewhere and thought that it would be good info to save. It may have even been Blake that posted it...
"
Older 4L80E's had an EXTREME overpressurization issue where it would
physically crack the case(excess of 600psi). Sonnax and Transgo HD2 kit's both
offer fixes to the issue.
If you get a 1999 or new core, you will get MANY improvements. Planetary
gearsets were widened by 10%, manual band was widened, there was input shaft
imrovements and a connecting shaft that had some holes deleted from it so the
lube system was updated as well. Stands out because you will have this little
short lube line going to the rear instead of the LONG lube line transversing
the whole transmission. Accumulators were updated as well as the wiring to
keep guys from bending the pins when installing them.
So try to get a 1999 core or newer(Its all in the ATSG). Remember, don't just
go to the junkyard and throw one in. That unit most likely came out of a truck
that weighed 4X what yours does and towed 5th wheels with 3 or 4 cars on them
with NO maintenance. It must be rebuilt and cleaned up.
One last thing to ponder, the 4L80E was used in passenger BUS applications as
well. If you don't think that will hold up forever in a syty app your smoking
crack.
"
I found this somewhere and thought that it would be good info to save. It may have even been Blake that posted it...
"
Older 4L80E's had an EXTREME overpressurization issue where it would
physically crack the case(excess of 600psi). Sonnax and Transgo HD2 kit's both
offer fixes to the issue.
If you get a 1999 or new core, you will get MANY improvements. Planetary
gearsets were widened by 10%, manual band was widened, there was input shaft
imrovements and a connecting shaft that had some holes deleted from it so the
lube system was updated as well. Stands out because you will have this little
short lube line going to the rear instead of the LONG lube line transversing
the whole transmission. Accumulators were updated as well as the wiring to
keep guys from bending the pins when installing them.
So try to get a 1999 core or newer(Its all in the ATSG). Remember, don't just
go to the junkyard and throw one in. That unit most likely came out of a truck
that weighed 4X what yours does and towed 5th wheels with 3 or 4 cars on them
with NO maintenance. It must be rebuilt and cleaned up.
One last thing to ponder, the 4L80E was used in passenger BUS applications as
well. If you don't think that will hold up forever in a syty app your smoking
crack.
"
mattw
Active member
Re: trying to find a 99-present 4l80e transmission core
Looking through my notes some more.. That was Blake that posted/sent that info. He also posted this about a 1993 80e....
"1993 is fine.
Your gonna update:
All the pistons to bonded steel except for the 2nd piston.
New A and B shift solenoids
New TCC PWM solenoid
New PCS solenoid (you mod the valvebody when you do this, ask how when you do it).
Update the AFL. Actuator Feed Limit valve. Either Sonnax or Transgo kit.
Check your pressure manifold switch. If it fails the test, replace it.
Transgo HD2 shift kit(I have a special set of instructions if you do the whole KIT).
All new bushings.
Include a wide front stator bushing and no walk rear case bushing.
When you do the "no walk" case bushing, you MUST modify the lube holes in that new 4x4 shaft when you do it. It's in the instructions included with the bushing.
Get an all bronze thrust washer kit.
Put new sealing rings on everything.
Check bushing mating surface on the input shaft for wear.
Check bushing mating surface on the intermediate shaft for wear.
Check the bushing mating surface on the output shaft you use and check the bushing mating surface on the hub that's snap ringged onto the intermediate shaft where the output shaft rides on it. I've found those worn.
Feel down inside the direct drum where the sealing ring surface is for the center support. Any grooves, replace the direct drum. This happens when bushings wear out and lube is cut off or decreased.
There are waved plates in the forward and the direct drum. The early ones MUST be replaced. They are very prone to break.
You want the 12 tooth or high waved plate from the TH400 in both drums. They will NOT fail.
Use the "turbulator" steels in the OVERRUN AND OD.
BW High Energy grays (almost look green/black) when soaked in ATF or the Hoosier Reds throughout. Both are good clutches.
New 34 element sprag on the direct drum to replace the stock 16 element.
If your OVERDRIVE assembly is melted, it's where they ran it without lube with a bad TPS on a diesel truck. If you pull it out and it's melted, replace it with a 1999 and up setup. Much better designed roller clutch and input shaft.
The new input shaft will NOT work in an old overrun clutch assembly. Must be a unit.
New rear band and new front band. You don't necessarily need a wide new band. This band is ONLY use in manual second. It is not used in D or OD lever positions.
Lots of differences inside but nothing that you can't do and it's relative inexpensive to do since your rebuilding it anyway.
You'll be very happy if you do these to it. It will essentially become a new trans.
Bead blast the case after cleaning it with virgin glass bead. Clear coat it with a clear ceramic, let it dry, then douch the inside with hot water, hit it with a light degreaser and use a nylon bristle brush and clean the case out really good. Valvebody and interior. Air gun it again. DON'T PUT WATER ON A FRESHLY GLASS BEADED CASE!! It will be very porous and ruin the finish as the water soaks in and makes hard water rings. This process makes them look beautiful. FLP started doing this after I posted up pics and what I used. It just makes a VERY attractive product. Look at Jeremy Donovich's for an example.
I've built dozens and dozens and dozens of these over the years. This will prove a good working product.
"
Looking through my notes some more.. That was Blake that posted/sent that info. He also posted this about a 1993 80e....
"1993 is fine.
Your gonna update:
All the pistons to bonded steel except for the 2nd piston.
New A and B shift solenoids
New TCC PWM solenoid
New PCS solenoid (you mod the valvebody when you do this, ask how when you do it).
Update the AFL. Actuator Feed Limit valve. Either Sonnax or Transgo kit.
Check your pressure manifold switch. If it fails the test, replace it.
Transgo HD2 shift kit(I have a special set of instructions if you do the whole KIT).
All new bushings.
Include a wide front stator bushing and no walk rear case bushing.
When you do the "no walk" case bushing, you MUST modify the lube holes in that new 4x4 shaft when you do it. It's in the instructions included with the bushing.
Get an all bronze thrust washer kit.
Put new sealing rings on everything.
Check bushing mating surface on the input shaft for wear.
Check bushing mating surface on the intermediate shaft for wear.
Check the bushing mating surface on the output shaft you use and check the bushing mating surface on the hub that's snap ringged onto the intermediate shaft where the output shaft rides on it. I've found those worn.
Feel down inside the direct drum where the sealing ring surface is for the center support. Any grooves, replace the direct drum. This happens when bushings wear out and lube is cut off or decreased.
There are waved plates in the forward and the direct drum. The early ones MUST be replaced. They are very prone to break.
You want the 12 tooth or high waved plate from the TH400 in both drums. They will NOT fail.
Use the "turbulator" steels in the OVERRUN AND OD.
BW High Energy grays (almost look green/black) when soaked in ATF or the Hoosier Reds throughout. Both are good clutches.
New 34 element sprag on the direct drum to replace the stock 16 element.
If your OVERDRIVE assembly is melted, it's where they ran it without lube with a bad TPS on a diesel truck. If you pull it out and it's melted, replace it with a 1999 and up setup. Much better designed roller clutch and input shaft.
The new input shaft will NOT work in an old overrun clutch assembly. Must be a unit.
New rear band and new front band. You don't necessarily need a wide new band. This band is ONLY use in manual second. It is not used in D or OD lever positions.
Lots of differences inside but nothing that you can't do and it's relative inexpensive to do since your rebuilding it anyway.
You'll be very happy if you do these to it. It will essentially become a new trans.
Bead blast the case after cleaning it with virgin glass bead. Clear coat it with a clear ceramic, let it dry, then douch the inside with hot water, hit it with a light degreaser and use a nylon bristle brush and clean the case out really good. Valvebody and interior. Air gun it again. DON'T PUT WATER ON A FRESHLY GLASS BEADED CASE!! It will be very porous and ruin the finish as the water soaks in and makes hard water rings. This process makes them look beautiful. FLP started doing this after I posted up pics and what I used. It just makes a VERY attractive product. Look at Jeremy Donovich's for an example.
I've built dozens and dozens and dozens of these over the years. This will prove a good working product.
"
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: trying to find a 99-present 4l80e transmission core
$200 is a good price for a core.
$200 is a good price for a core.
craig jones
Formerly Scary Phoon
Re: trying to find a 99-present 4l80e transmission core
I'm almost considering a 4l60e again they are easier to find and alot cheaper and a lot lighter! I don't plan on beating it up just mostly cruisin w the fam!
I'm almost considering a 4l60e again they are easier to find and alot cheaper and a lot lighter! I don't plan on beating it up just mostly cruisin w the fam!
JSM
Active member
Re: trying to find a 99-present 4l80e transmission core
some cases have a 6th tab on the very top for the ls1 bolt pattern. Good idea to have but 100% needed as many ls guys use th350/th400/powerglides which don't have that bolt hole just fine.
so 99 newer isn't 100% needed IMO.
some cases have a 6th tab on the very top for the ls1 bolt pattern. Good idea to have but 100% needed as many ls guys use th350/th400/powerglides which don't have that bolt hole just fine.
so 99 newer isn't 100% needed IMO.
Syclone Rob
Its all ABOOT the SYTY eh
Re: trying to find a 99-present 4l80e transmission core
Break it twice or more and it won't be cheaper in the end.
And as for weight, take a look at this thread
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31658&highlight=4l80e+weigh
But if you plan to make basically stock power, then just do a 700r4 build.
Break it twice or more and it won't be cheaper in the end.
And as for weight, take a look at this thread
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31658&highlight=4l80e+weigh
But if you plan to make basically stock power, then just do a 700r4 build.