Rear ABS Disc Swap
- Thread starter b00n
- Start date
b00n
'Noma GT #0380
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
Not yet but I plan on front dual piston upgrades as well as the back when I do the swaps. :2cents: opinions/thoughts welcomed.
Not yet but I plan on front dual piston upgrades as well as the back when I do the swaps. :2cents: opinions/thoughts welcomed.
Daveman2
Autox Blazer
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
how easy is the rear disc swap using 2nd gen blazer discs? I cant afford LS1's/C5's all the way around and my drums have NEVER been done, so I know it'l help my stopping power lol
how easy is the rear disc swap using 2nd gen blazer discs? I cant afford LS1's/C5's all the way around and my drums have NEVER been done, so I know it'l help my stopping power lol
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
as long as you have the space to work on it and know either what to do or to follow simple instructions it is a snap.
i removed the first set i found with no idea what i was doing in fairly short order, at the wrecking yard.
as long as you have the space to work on it and know either what to do or to follow simple instructions it is a snap.
i removed the first set i found with no idea what i was doing in fairly short order, at the wrecking yard.
b00n
'Noma GT #0380
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
PART 1
This was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2
Parts
1. Brackets from www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rearend/axle flange)
2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)
3. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)
4. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I prefered braided)
Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lugnuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jackstands. Remove wheels.
2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and hace the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside of 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)
4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.
3. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
PART 1
This was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2
Parts
1. Brackets from www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rearend/axle flange)
2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)
3. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)
4. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I prefered braided)
Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lugnuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jackstands. Remove wheels.
2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and hace the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside of 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)
4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.
3. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
b00n
'Noma GT #0380
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
Part 2
This was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2 with stock rear end.
Parts
1. Brackets from www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rear end/axle flange)
2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)
3. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear caliper pads
4. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)
5. Axle seals which are around $5 each
6. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I preferred braided)
7. New wheel studs for the rear which I believe are $1-$2 each. (I recommend replacing while axles are out)
Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lug nuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jack stands. Remove wheels.
2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and have the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement studs from any automotive store are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)
4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate, master wheel cylinder & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.
5. Replace your axle seals while the axles are out and check your bearings (replace bearings if needed).
6. Test fit your caliper bracket from www.scarebird.com. Drill any necessary holes in bracket to mount it securely to rear end. (I had to use a die grinder and take a bit out of the middle of the bracket to make it sit properly against the rear end before drilling necessary holes for mounting.)
7. Once bracket is mounted securely and axle seals are replaced then reinstall axles. Push axles all the way in & reinstall C clip then pull the axle out locking it in place. Install center pin and center pin bolt.
8. Make sure no debris went in the rear diff if left uncovered while axles where out getting machined. Reinstall rear differential cover and fill back up with 80W-90 gear lube (I used 80W-90 Vavoline Gear Lube) through fill plug located at the front right of the rear end (when looking at the back of it front right). Fill up to the bottom of the plug which I believe is around 2-2.5 qts.
9. Install rotors, calipers & pads. (Calipers are from the rear of a 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado and bolt right to brackets with factory caliper bolts)
10. You will need a longer E-brake cable if you are planning on using the e-brake. The cable connects to a e-brake lever on the rear of the calipers.
11. Reconnect brake lines and fill up the master cylinder then bleed the brakes.
12. Go for a test drive and make sure everything is working properly.
Part 2
This was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2 with stock rear end.
Parts
1. Brackets from www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rear end/axle flange)
2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)
3. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear caliper pads
4. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)
5. Axle seals which are around $5 each
6. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I preferred braided)
7. New wheel studs for the rear which I believe are $1-$2 each. (I recommend replacing while axles are out)
Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lug nuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jack stands. Remove wheels.
2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and have the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement studs from any automotive store are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)
4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate, master wheel cylinder & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.
5. Replace your axle seals while the axles are out and check your bearings (replace bearings if needed).
6. Test fit your caliper bracket from www.scarebird.com. Drill any necessary holes in bracket to mount it securely to rear end. (I had to use a die grinder and take a bit out of the middle of the bracket to make it sit properly against the rear end before drilling necessary holes for mounting.)
7. Once bracket is mounted securely and axle seals are replaced then reinstall axles. Push axles all the way in & reinstall C clip then pull the axle out locking it in place. Install center pin and center pin bolt.
8. Make sure no debris went in the rear diff if left uncovered while axles where out getting machined. Reinstall rear differential cover and fill back up with 80W-90 gear lube (I used 80W-90 Vavoline Gear Lube) through fill plug located at the front right of the rear end (when looking at the back of it front right). Fill up to the bottom of the plug which I believe is around 2-2.5 qts.
9. Install rotors, calipers & pads. (Calipers are from the rear of a 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado and bolt right to brackets with factory caliper bolts)
10. You will need a longer E-brake cable if you are planning on using the e-brake. The cable connects to a e-brake lever on the rear of the calipers.
11. Reconnect brake lines and fill up the master cylinder then bleed the brakes.
12. Go for a test drive and make sure everything is working properly.
b00n
'Noma GT #0380
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
may be a little different/easier for you SyTy guys as this is for a 2wd but your AWD should swap easily to disc brakes from a 4x4 disc setup. I imagine IF you find the rear disc setup from a 2wd your rear wheels might set in closer to the frame but :dunno: .... I'll be finding out soon enough though on my Sonoma GT for the 2wd info.
may be a little different/easier for you SyTy guys as this is for a 2wd but your AWD should swap easily to disc brakes from a 4x4 disc setup. I imagine IF you find the rear disc setup from a 2wd your rear wheels might set in closer to the frame but :dunno: .... I'll be finding out soon enough though on my Sonoma GT for the 2wd info.
b00n
'Noma GT #0380
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
All 98 and up parts (these will work all the way down to 86)
Backing plates (27.00 per side )
Calipers (30.00)
Caliper frames (20.00)
Pads ($20.00)
Discs (36.00 per side at advance auto parts)
OR a loaded caliper from Advance autoparts (includes frame, pads, calipers, bolts, et-al)
Stock bolts
Dust shields (12.00 per side at the dealer)
Brake lines to the caliper...($15.00 each)
Simply remove your old shoes and the backing plates, install the new backing plates then the calipers, etc... Bleed and go...
this is to add later year disc brakes to your s truck rear end and for anyone interested here are the rpo with ratio can be found in the glove box
GU4=3.08
GU5=3.23
GU6=3.42
GT4=3.73
GT5=4.10
HC4=4.56
G80 - limited slip
All 98 and up parts (these will work all the way down to 86)
Backing plates (27.00 per side )
Calipers (30.00)
Caliper frames (20.00)
Pads ($20.00)
Discs (36.00 per side at advance auto parts)
OR a loaded caliper from Advance autoparts (includes frame, pads, calipers, bolts, et-al)
Stock bolts
Dust shields (12.00 per side at the dealer)
Brake lines to the caliper...($15.00 each)
Simply remove your old shoes and the backing plates, install the new backing plates then the calipers, etc... Bleed and go...
this is to add later year disc brakes to your s truck rear end and for anyone interested here are the rpo with ratio can be found in the glove box
GU4=3.08
GU5=3.23
GU6=3.42
GT4=3.73
GT5=4.10
HC4=4.56
G80 - limited slip
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
i was discussing this with another member the other night, i wsa curious about still retaining the ABS after the disc swap.
90-92 use 4-SENSOR [rear sensors] 93-95 use 3-SENSOR (the rear speed comes from the DRAC).
i have camaro discs all around, the front are easy to retain but not so sure about the rear.
i was discussing this with another member the other night, i wsa curious about still retaining the ABS after the disc swap.
90-92 use 4-SENSOR [rear sensors] 93-95 use 3-SENSOR (the rear speed comes from the DRAC).
i have camaro discs all around, the front are easy to retain but not so sure about the rear.
1madgumby
New member
Syclone Rob
Its all ABOOT the SYTY eh
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
When its working great is what makes it fail. I have a working unit, and the odd time under light braking, the abs would kick on. I removed the ABS unit, and I now get BETTER braking and brake feel (feedback). It is a crude version since it was amonst the first out there.
When its working great is what makes it fail. I have a working unit, and the odd time under light braking, the abs would kick on. I removed the ABS unit, and I now get BETTER braking and brake feel (feedback). It is a crude version since it was amonst the first out there.
b00n
'Noma GT #0380
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
maybe so but there's a reason for that :roll: most S-series have mismatched abs sensors that aren't of quality to start with on the 1st gens. I mean I recall looking @ recalls on ABS sensors before on all S-Series where it says they're prone to "just going to the floor, taking hold, & then setting the ABS light". My 93 4x4 4dr Blazer done this but also "GM Techs" recommend changing your brake fluid every 100,000 miles or less to maintain proper working braking parts. Hell some of the S-series braking systems fail due to just pushing the "cup" back into the hole so you can pull the old pads off & put the new ones in .... guess there's some kinda diaphragm inside that gets messed up :dunno:.
Anyways .... It's not for everyone's preferences to have 4 Wheel ABS .... I just think for my non-turbo weak little 195 hp 4.3 it could help me stop a "little" better/feel safer breaking & look nice along with being easier to replace those brakes which normally hardly ever get checked by most DIY'er mechanics.
maybe so but there's a reason for that :roll: most S-series have mismatched abs sensors that aren't of quality to start with on the 1st gens. I mean I recall looking @ recalls on ABS sensors before on all S-Series where it says they're prone to "just going to the floor, taking hold, & then setting the ABS light". My 93 4x4 4dr Blazer done this but also "GM Techs" recommend changing your brake fluid every 100,000 miles or less to maintain proper working braking parts. Hell some of the S-series braking systems fail due to just pushing the "cup" back into the hole so you can pull the old pads off & put the new ones in .... guess there's some kinda diaphragm inside that gets messed up :dunno:.
Anyways .... It's not for everyone's preferences to have 4 Wheel ABS .... I just think for my non-turbo weak little 195 hp 4.3 it could help me stop a "little" better/feel safer breaking & look nice along with being easier to replace those brakes which normally hardly ever get checked by most DIY'er mechanics.
midnightbluS10
Banned
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
I was never a fan of any of the ABS systems in any car I drove...until the day I needed it and it saved my ass by doing exactly what its suppose to do. Allow you to remain in control of the steering while pulsing the brakes almost to the Point of locking up many times faster than any human could. These dumb asses stopped at a green arrow when I expected them to go, and I had already layer into the gas pedal. I got to the train tracks 20 feet behind them before I realized that they intended to sit through the entire green arrow. Because there was no traffic in the oncoming lanes, I was able to slow down enough to steer around them while still on the brakes. All thanks to the ABS. That's the only time I've ever needed it, and it worked like a charm.
I was never a fan of any of the ABS systems in any car I drove...until the day I needed it and it saved my ass by doing exactly what its suppose to do. Allow you to remain in control of the steering while pulsing the brakes almost to the Point of locking up many times faster than any human could. These dumb asses stopped at a green arrow when I expected them to go, and I had already layer into the gas pedal. I got to the train tracks 20 feet behind them before I realized that they intended to sit through the entire green arrow. Because there was no traffic in the oncoming lanes, I was able to slow down enough to steer around them while still on the brakes. All thanks to the ABS. That's the only time I've ever needed it, and it worked like a charm.
b00n
'Noma GT #0380
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
Thank YOU for that experience. I've had the same issue but only with the exception somebody jammed on brakes in bumper to bumper traffic & I slid around them on their driver side to avoid being rear ended .... guy behind me slid his Lexus under a Toyota Tacoma :tdown:
Thank YOU for that experience. I've had the same issue but only with the exception somebody jammed on brakes in bumper to bumper traffic & I slid around them on their driver side to avoid being rear ended .... guy behind me slid his Lexus under a Toyota Tacoma :tdown:
scooters355s10
New member
Re: Rear ABS Disc Swap
Yes u can keep the abs. It wont know the difference between drum or disc. I put rear disc on my 93 s10 and it stopped so much faster. Its a direct swap. Just take the lines off at the brake hose from the donor car then u dont have to make new ones. And will have to use a small washer to shim the caliper bracket from the axle. Other wise the rotor will rub the bracket. Atleast it did on mine. I think the housing r slightly different on older trucks.
Yes u can keep the abs. It wont know the difference between drum or disc. I put rear disc on my 93 s10 and it stopped so much faster. Its a direct swap. Just take the lines off at the brake hose from the donor car then u dont have to make new ones. And will have to use a small washer to shim the caliper bracket from the axle. Other wise the rotor will rub the bracket. Atleast it did on mine. I think the housing r slightly different on older trucks.