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One point that might not have been obvious. If you don't have the center bracket and hit 15 PSI, the clamps on the hose between the intercooler and intake do not have enough clamping force to keep the hose from being blown off the throttle body. Once that happens you won't make a single pound...

I made one out of 2" flat stock as it was what I had on hand. Trimmed one end to about .75" wide, bolted it to the front upper intake bolt. Welded a nut on and called it a day. Might end up pulling it out and slotting the intake mount hole, as is could have been about .25" shorter, but the...

It does help. The photo is a bit dark under the throttle body, but it does appear to use one of the upper intake bolts for the inner mount. I have some flat stock and can take a stab at making one. It won't be any worse than not having one....

While looking for a possible replacement for the intercooler to throttle body coupler, I spotted the listing at SportsMachine for the intercooler brackets. My truck only had the front bracket when I got it, and of course I had not idea that wasn't normal. Which explains the way too frequent...

When I installed the fresh engine, I also went with a set of 75lb injectors. The power of TunerStudio made that change silly simple (after I remembered to actually save the change), with one notable exception. Cranking and Priming pulse widths were way too rich, to the point that flood clear...

Should have mentioned I did that. There wasn't any leaves or other crud and went a step further a put a tray under the truck to catch the water. Based on what I caught, the coils were dusty, but definitely not blocked. I also did a heater core about a year ago and could inspect the ducts...

With the rebuilt engine in my Typhoon is very close to being suitable as my daily driver. Almost. The HVAC blower is not moving much air. All leaks have been found, blend door adjusted and confirmed working. It appears the motor is just weak and the squirrel cage maybe not very efficient by...

And major egg on my face. It isn't a locating dimple, it was the old gasket EGR washer. It was well stuck and I didn't want to damage the 'dowel' when cleaning the surface.

I was nervous about the intake gaskets and jumped the gun blaming them. I installed the upper intake after the engine was in and most of the buried connections were, well, connected. As such I did not see that the EGR/locating dowel did not drop into the pocket. End result? Immediately...

It might not be related to the head swap, as almost everything under the hood has been replaced, but I wanted to see if I screwed up and am on the right track. During assembly my builder saw me modifying the Vortec plastic gaskets and asked why. I told him I thought the paper gaskets did not...

Thanks for those pointers. Loosening the trans mount didn't help enough I ended up loosening the block side and the lower two frame side bolts. It still took more persuasion than I liked. I'll keep an eye on the mounts. If they fail, well I learned a lot about what does and doesn't work...

Thanks! That is basically the plan I used. Trans in place, upper intake off. I did install a distributor body to keep anything from falling in. The upper trans bolts were not fun to remove, and only slightly better to install (clean block and threads, spun by finger until snug). I spotted...

The A/C request line is on C9 and is dark green. and has 12v on it when the HVAC switch is in AC or defrost positions. A/C control is on F1 and is Green-White, This one is optional.

I've used the Airaid UBI piping on a couple projects, but for each of those I had use for better than half the kit. For my Typhoon project, I only need a 90 and short straight. If I can find a 45 or 60 degree bend to go with that, even better.

I found a few threads with tips to make getting to motor mounts easier, and those tips were a big help. I started disconnecting wiring and hoses this afternoon and only have a bit more to go before I can lift the current engine out, and if no family issues pop-up I suspect that will happen...

I don't use the BS3 platform. That said the answer depends a bit on you and the tools you have. The factory method of disconnecting timing wire is to ensure that the ECU doesn't change the desired timing while you are trying to check it. If you have tuning software and can set a fixed advance...

That last unit was built for me. The CAN gauge is way in the future, but having the pigtail ready just made sense. I was able to get my hands on a factory ECU pinout diagram and confirmed the TCC, VSS and AC input(s) by testing my current ECU/Harness. The short version is it just plain works...

Vortec heads are going on the new engine tomorrow or early next week, so that is a very welcome bit of info.

The new engine is a converted four bolt. The current engine is unknown and suffering huge blow-by issues, hence the new engine. The original tube had a split in the bulge. Installing the new one was surprisingly more involved than I had anticipated and I MAY have flexed the bulge trying to...

Thanks for all the great info. Will keep an eye on it when the pan gets installed. On a related note, I think I may have gotten the last new SyTy oil dipstick tube in the country last year. I may have damaged it during installation. If I did I suspect I can repair it, but would like a backup...