4l80e aluminum drive shaft ?
- Thread starter oboym
- Start date
Re: 4l80e aluminum drive shaft ?
contact jwaller he has them made in alum and carbon fiber. he had my carbon fiber shaft made by the same company i contacted for about 200 bucks less than the best price i was quoted.
oboym said:
contact jwaller he has them made in alum and carbon fiber. he had my carbon fiber shaft made by the same company i contacted for about 200 bucks less than the best price i was quoted.
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e aluminum drive shaft ?
Like Jose said, make sure you go from the TIP of the yoke to the middle of the u-joint. There are a few different yokes out there and if you send a sample and say "shorten it 3.25 inches and put new u-joints and a yoke on it" they may just shorten the tubing and it be the wrong length.
You can have your stocker shortened for $100 or less, but if you want the CF, if Waller already has the hookup, it would probably be cheaper to use him on those, and if Gilbert can do the aluminum ones, he might be good since he's been used so much here.
I can get specs on a TYPHOON shaft, but I no longer have the sy so I can't on those.
Like Jose said, make sure you go from the TIP of the yoke to the middle of the u-joint. There are a few different yokes out there and if you send a sample and say "shorten it 3.25 inches and put new u-joints and a yoke on it" they may just shorten the tubing and it be the wrong length.
You can have your stocker shortened for $100 or less, but if you want the CF, if Waller already has the hookup, it would probably be cheaper to use him on those, and if Gilbert can do the aluminum ones, he might be good since he's been used so much here.
I can get specs on a TYPHOON shaft, but I no longer have the sy so I can't on those.
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e aluminum drive shaft ?
I'm not trying to take ANY business from anyone, but I spoke with the place that does my front props. They do a LOT of performance setups and do NOT recommend aluminum. 2 reasons. One, it's very soft. It will NOT have the longevity of a steel shaft but it does do away with rotating mass. Two, aluminum is very expensive. So you'd have a very expensive shaft that won't last as long as steel. They are more than willing to do them, but made sure to emphasize that they do NOT last as long.
I have a TYPHOON shaft that I will send them. It is 32 spline arrangement.
They can then produce a shaft that is the correct length for the 80e or just replacement for the 700 style.
I'll need someone with a Syclone that is willing to part with an old shaft and I will send it up. The reason that I want to TAKE them samples is because, for example, there are 4 different lengths of 32 spline yokes. They would have to figure out which was best for our app and then make a fixed production number using JUST that yoke for 80e typhoon part number.
I'm not trying to take ANY business from anyone, but I spoke with the place that does my front props. They do a LOT of performance setups and do NOT recommend aluminum. 2 reasons. One, it's very soft. It will NOT have the longevity of a steel shaft but it does do away with rotating mass. Two, aluminum is very expensive. So you'd have a very expensive shaft that won't last as long as steel. They are more than willing to do them, but made sure to emphasize that they do NOT last as long.
I have a TYPHOON shaft that I will send them. It is 32 spline arrangement.
They can then produce a shaft that is the correct length for the 80e or just replacement for the 700 style.
I'll need someone with a Syclone that is willing to part with an old shaft and I will send it up. The reason that I want to TAKE them samples is because, for example, there are 4 different lengths of 32 spline yokes. They would have to figure out which was best for our app and then make a fixed production number using JUST that yoke for 80e typhoon part number.
Windedv6
Ty n 10s
Re: 4l80e aluminum drive shaft ?
As George knows I tend to agree with him, but using the correct aluminum drive shaft is not an issue in our trucks. I have used one since the ATR started selling them way back in the day. Also because we split our power front/rear it even gets less abuse than our f-body RWD friends. I have many F-body friends that us PST and Dynotech aluminum shafts rated to 1,000 hp.
Aluminum shafts are a third the weight of a steel and half the weight as a chromoly. Of course the CF shaft is about half the weight of the aluminum and handles as much HP. One of my NOS powered, 10sec SS Nova friend broke two steel drive shafts this summer because he though they were less expensive way to go (Obviously not thick enoungh wall size). He ended up buying an aluminum one. He will attest that you don't want to break any drive shaft as it tore the under side of the floor and hump up pretty bad. Cut right through some of the floor.
George's guy is right about the fact you can build a stronger steel shaft than aluminum. It's the extra weight that most of us don't like. For every 1 lb of extra weight on things like cranks, drive shafts, axles, converters, etc., is like adding 8 -10 lbs under rotation, to your vehicle via loss of hp.
John
As George knows I tend to agree with him, but using the correct aluminum drive shaft is not an issue in our trucks. I have used one since the ATR started selling them way back in the day. Also because we split our power front/rear it even gets less abuse than our f-body RWD friends. I have many F-body friends that us PST and Dynotech aluminum shafts rated to 1,000 hp.
Aluminum shafts are a third the weight of a steel and half the weight as a chromoly. Of course the CF shaft is about half the weight of the aluminum and handles as much HP. One of my NOS powered, 10sec SS Nova friend broke two steel drive shafts this summer because he though they were less expensive way to go (Obviously not thick enoungh wall size). He ended up buying an aluminum one. He will attest that you don't want to break any drive shaft as it tore the under side of the floor and hump up pretty bad. Cut right through some of the floor.
George's guy is right about the fact you can build a stronger steel shaft than aluminum. It's the extra weight that most of us don't like. For every 1 lb of extra weight on things like cranks, drive shafts, axles, converters, etc., is like adding 8 -10 lbs under rotation, to your vehicle via loss of hp.
John
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e aluminum drive shaft ?
I'm really glad you got in on this thread. If they are already using Dynotech shafts with success that sounds like the way to go. The info I gave was relayed from the manufacturer after I spoke with them for a bit over different options. Dynotech may have a higher confidence with the aluminum shafts as well. Here's their link:
http://www.dynotechengineering.com/
At the top click on "Drive Shafts"
Then go down to "Racing Drive Shafts"
They have "metal matrix aluminum", "carbon fiber wrapped aluminum", etc.
They'll be more expensive but if you are going aluminum, you don't want to chince on that anyway.
I'm really glad you got in on this thread. If they are already using Dynotech shafts with success that sounds like the way to go. The info I gave was relayed from the manufacturer after I spoke with them for a bit over different options. Dynotech may have a higher confidence with the aluminum shafts as well. Here's their link:
http://www.dynotechengineering.com/
At the top click on "Drive Shafts"
Then go down to "Racing Drive Shafts"
They have "metal matrix aluminum", "carbon fiber wrapped aluminum", etc.
They'll be more expensive but if you are going aluminum, you don't want to chince on that anyway.