Have you guys ever heard of a cool-can. Drag racers use it to cool their fuel. Runs 1/2in fuel lines through this can which you can put ice/water. The result is cooler fuel. My father dragraces and was explaining this to me. Then i got the idea why not use something like this to cool my IC water when i drag race. So i looked around the engine bay trying to find a place to put something like this. I decided to put it in the orginal battery location. I went and talked to a guy that makes custom tube frame cars to see if he could do this and he said sure. Box will be tig welded together with 5/8in tubing wound in circles inside. There will be a drain at the bottom and a lid on top. Should cool the water down pretty good with dry ice in it. Ill post pics when i get it.
An idea i had is comming to life....what do you think.
- Thread starter Bundaho
- Start date
warmpancakes
New member
have him build it out of higher quality aluminum, and fill it with liquid nitrogen, then you will be able to get below ambient air temps, but the pump better move fast so the coolant doesnt freeze in the can Ken
I was looking through a Jegs catalog and kinda had the same idea. I am sure it would be beneficial on the strip - but for daily driving you are gonna heat up whatever cooling you are using i.e. ice, water. Ice would be good for the strip. It melts, you drain, you fill, it melts, you.......Not messy and you probably won't get hassled for draining the water in the pits.
Ian Turgeon
Cascading Inspiration
As long as you empty it when your not at the track, the water wouldnt contribut heat to the system.
You might concider using a heatercore in the cool can to help heat transfer
You might concider using a heatercore in the cool can to help heat transfer
If my memory serves me correctly, the cool can you refered to in your original post was wrapped with a cork material to prevent/absorb condensation on the outside of the can. May want to think of a way(s) to prevent condensation, as mentioned, dripping water will cause problems (traction or getting booted from the starting line).
rockvillespeed
Member
if its a sy, or a ty and you dont mind a tank in the back, just run a big cooler full o h20, and mount yer intercooler pump in the back with it.
my sy carries a 24 gallon cooler, pump in back, and this year, i havent managed to get my intercooler water temps over 112 degrees, after a full pass and then a while more...if u know what i mean.
also, wrap your intercooler in thermotec or equivalent heat reflective wrap.
major difference
good luck.
btw, the cool can likely won't hold enough "coolant" to last more then a few minutes total time - just not big enuf - simple matter of themodynamics - capacity to exchange btu's
my sy carries a 24 gallon cooler, pump in back, and this year, i havent managed to get my intercooler water temps over 112 degrees, after a full pass and then a while more...if u know what i mean.
also, wrap your intercooler in thermotec or equivalent heat reflective wrap.
major difference
good luck.
btw, the cool can likely won't hold enough "coolant" to last more then a few minutes total time - just not big enuf - simple matter of themodynamics - capacity to exchange btu's
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
if you are running an ice chest filled with ice/water, you should not be seeing MATs above 70-80 deg at the end of a run. Anything over 100 would be aweful for that type of setup.
rockvillespeed
Member
NOT mat - i said WATER temps - prior to the cooler, they were significantly higher.
i think it goes w/o saying mat's that high wouldnt be so nice on a 70 degree day
i think it goes w/o saying mat's that high wouldnt be so nice on a 70 degree day
rockvillespeed
Member
oh - and the sender for the gauge is dead nuts after the intercooler, at the water's hottest point.
the intercooler itself literally stays @ ambient temps "to the touch"
the intercooler itself literally stays @ ambient temps "to the touch"
rockvillespeed
Member
oh - not ice - just straight water/antifreeze