Re: Best parts for 700R4?
Hi Guys, Just doing a bit of reading up for the future and thought I'd resurrect this if no-one minds.
Dig. Good info, Re. Clearances, obviously some of these clearances you are referring to are different to whats in reference books and I, being one of those of us who haven't done a trans before would like to pick the brains of you guys that have. Thats what we're all here for isn't it, to learn and pass on help and knowledge? Right then,
1) What tranny clearances need to be tightened up from stock to work in our trucks?
2) I think the original post is actually valid to try and sort out a list of hard parts. However,
Maybe the question "Worst parts for 700R4" would get more info. However the answers need qualifying as to why though as well.
Now I haven't built an auto box before, but I have a mechanical background in the Nuclear industry and can machine, measure and build most things of a mechanical nature to high standards with sometimes anal attention to detail. However I agree that nothing replaces experience and without it little things can get missed. Care to share what specs/clearances need to be changed/tightened up on the 700 and why?
Thanks
The problem with this, is that there is a fair amount of opinion about parts preferences. Also, you don't need certain parts for lower-level builds - example; billet custom ratio planetary probably not necessary on a low HP build. So, it's tough to recommend something when you don't know the goals. You can't one-size-fits-all a transmission.
I'll look through my book of specs as to the exact numbers... I've kept all of the stuff from umpteen trans builds in a big binder.
The really critical - make sure the pump is on the tight side of the atsg specs. The servo pin clearance needs to generally be considerably tighter than atsg. The 3-4 clutchpack, also, should be tighter.
It's interesting that the number of aftermarket 700R4 parts is still growing- there are new parts now that didn't even exist a few years ago.
The input drum is really the achilles heel of the whole thing, imho. People get all crazy about billet output shafts and planetaries, but the reality is that the cast aluminum input drum housing (where it meets the shaft) is probably the weakest link. Also, the size of the input shaft itself.
I don't know that there is a way to make a 700 "abuse proof"- that's why everybody is converting to 4l80e.
You can, however, make a 700 live in 500-600 HP applications, when combined with a healthy dose of driver sense. A lot of these die because of how they're being driven.