better handling with 2" drop than 3"?

[Mephisto]

i tried searching this but had a helluva time, cause when i used 3" it brought up a bunch of posts with 3" downpipe references, and i tried "lowering and drop" and still not what i was lookin for so im asking.

ok so my handling is sh*t. and im wondering if i switch up to 2" blocks in the back and tighten up the torsion bars a bit, if thats gonna make that much of a difference. has anyone done this already and noticed a difference for the better? my front suspension feels like all the weight is on the shocks. when i go over bumps my truck feels like its a boat on a rough ocean, meaning it goes up and down, up and down... basically the same symptoms of bad shocks on a regular truck. im using red adjustable konis that are about a year old, and set one down from the stiffest setting. (i also have an addco sway bar in the back) right now my stock blazer on 225/75/15s handles better :x

any input or suggestions?

 

[Matthew Little]

3"

3"

you may have worn out bushings and ball joints, I am replacing mine this weekend, My truck was all over the road. I rreplaced the front swaybar bushings when I had it off and that helped about 75%, but still hunts on the road. I have 3" belltechs and the front is lower than the rear. Hope to have all of it out after this weekend, just something to look into, my trucks bushings were dryed out and cracked all to pieces.

 

[spooldup]

i have 2 inch blocks on the black ty. The blue ty has 3 and the ride is rougher but has better handling than the black one. I am running kyb monomax's on both trucks also. Anyway i don't think switching to 2" blocks will make it handle better. Your alignmnet will be slightly better because the truck won't be as low and will line up better.

 

[Mephisto]

good tips guys! thanks!

i appreciate the info... i think its time i get an alignment, new tires, ball joints and bushings :roll: i hate spending money on maintenance instead of performance :x

 

[TYPHOOL7]

i have to do the same thing, if your seriuos about it i can get us hooked up with a set of poly bushings and everything we ne, let me know maine.

 

[92BlkTy]

Also, i dont know how often it happens, but your rear springs, and torsion bars could be worn. torsion bars are just a difrent kind of spring than a coil, and when a coil spring is worn it likes to loose its spring rate. i bet youd get a pretty good feel from 2" drop springs in the rear, and some stiffer torsion bars with poly bushings, new idler arm, and ball joints.

does anyone know who sells stiffer torsion bars? i had mine droped 2" in the rear with blocks and probably about 2.5-3" in front with loosend torsion bars. it handled awesome, but it bottomed out on every bump. im pretty sure it handled so well because in a hard turn, the frame would sit on the bump stop, making it so it couldnt move any further.

 

[imported_ty1724]

here i thought this was funny for the people who like to be low i am gonna try this during the weekend to see how it does just out of cuiosity
here you go

Registered: Oct 2001
Posts: 2003 4x4 Torsion Bar Drop Trick [REVISED] (05-02-2002 until 01-01-2011) The Torsion Bar Trick has become pretty notorious among the lowered blazer community. Apparently I didn't write the instructions thorough enough for a lot of people. Here is the more detailed revision:

Before you start (at least a day in advance) you should soak both ends of the torsion bars with a good lube like Lithium or WD-40. Driving around on bumpy roads will help work the lube into the mating spaces.
1. Jack up the front end and place jack stands securely under the frame so it is well supported. The front tires must be up off the ground enough for a jack to get under the tires or control arms for a later adjustment.
2. Take off the front bump stops. They must be removed or the truck will sit on them. (it should be a 9/16 nut).
3. At the crossmember (where the rear of the torsion bars stop) unscrew the 2 adjuster bolts. Remove these completely.
4. Use a two jaw puller (can be rented at Auto Zone for about $40.00 deposit) to lift the torsion bar adjuster arm (or key) up off its support block, so you can remove the blocks out of the rear hole in the crossmember. Then slowly let the puller back down to release the pressure.
5. Use a hammer and drift tap to pound the torsion bar towards the front of the vehicle. If you cannot get them to tap out you can remove the 4 bolts holding the whole crossmember in place and tap the crossmember toward the REAR with a sledge hammer, until both adjuster arms fall out. For some of you the exhaust might be in the way, You can use a jack to hold the pipe up out of the way.
6. You should be able to slide the bars forward a few inches to 'disengage' them from the control arm hole. Use a jack to lift the wheel/control arms up until until the tire just about tucks into the wheel well.
7. Place the key back onto the torsion bar exactly the way it came off (you may have to reinstall the crossmember first) or just pull the torsion bar back into the key hole. Make sure you reinstall the adjuater arm keys UPSIDE-DOWN. Make sure the shape of the key holes match up with the torsion bar shape before you tap them back in place.
8. If done correctly the support blocks should go back in with the keys sitting just above them.
9. Then put the torsion bar bolts back into the blocks and tighten them all the way up. MAKE SURE YOU ANGLE THE BLOCKS AND TORSION BAR BOLTS DIRECTLY TOWARDS THE KEYS, IF NOT THE BLOCKS WILL SLIP.

Once both sides are done exactly like this, you can let the front end down and see how you did. You should be able to bounce the front end down a few inches before it bottoms out.
You can now screw/unscrew the adjuster bolts for final leveling out or lowing even more. You should be able to adjust from a 5.5" to a 6.5" drop.
The ride quality suffers is a bit bouncy due to lack of suspension travel left. Also the stock shocks are too compressed to function at all. Drop shocks will help and pancake bump stops will soften bottoming out.
I have done my best to explain this whole precedure, but if you still have trouble, you can post questions here in the suspension forum. GOOD LUCK!


what do ya think

 

[Mephisto]

i have to do the same thing, if your seriuos about it i can get us hooked up with a set of poly bushings and everything we ne, let me know maine.

we'll talk more at the meet :wink:

 

[TYPHOOL7]

sounds like it would work, but ill rip my car apart while driving it that way, maybe not? Try it, doesnt sound like that bad of a job to do.

 

[TYPHOOL7]

i have to do the same thing, if your seriuos about it i can get us hooked up with a set of poly bushings and everything we ne, let me know maine.

we'll talk more at the meet :wink:

::thumbsup::