SY-1193
Active member
Re: boost control solenoid question
Permatex -that is kind of broad. They make many products what do you mean?
I would think the rod from the arm that goes into the hot side would be where you could squeeze in some anti seize from the outside to make it not stick. Not the actuator.
Any thin liquid spray won't stay from the heat. Anti seize may stay in there and keep it free. I am talking about the silver stuff or even coper bearing anti seize. Anything like lube from a spray can will just be gone from the heat.
GM makes many types of these solenoids they look similar but why would they make so many different ones with different part #"s if they weren't in fact different. They may (and I don't know for sure) have a different coil resistance or act different with the chip we use and scaling for boost on our trucks.
Just trying to give you plenty of ideas to try out.
Read this for wastegate adjustment:
WASTEGATE ADJUSTMENTS
The waste gate arm (or waste gate rod) is the connection from the waste gate actuator to the waste gate lever itself. The waste gate lever itself is free moving, swinging freely. If it does not move freely (when disconnected from the waste gate rod) there is a problem, something impeding movement, and these needs to be fixed. Some stick intermittently, or only when HOT.
The waste gate actuator is spring loaded; clamping the waste gate closed when there is no boost source. When pressure is applied to the actuator, the actuator opens the waste gate. The rod's length can be adjusted, which means that the waste gate itself will have a different rate of bleeding of the exhaust depending on the adjustment. Good pictures and diagnostic tests are in the Syclone/Typhoon Service Supplement (on the CD Rom I believe).
The waste gate rod is connected to the waste gate lever. The lever has a pin, the rod slips on to it, and a retaining clip through the waste gate lever holds the arm/lever together. If you pull the pin, and slip the rod off the lever, the hole on the arm and the lever's pin should overlap slightly. In the manual it states to look for 1/2 overlap, so you'd have to pull the arm out of the actuator slightly (tight spring tension here) to connect the arm to the lever's pin. I believe the overlap spec has been updated so factory specs are now 7/8 overlap (basically a looser/longer rod setup). The arm's length can be adjusted as the rod end is threaded onto the rod. Tightening the end will shorten the waste gate, loosening lengthens it. If the rod is shorter, the waste gate is clamped more tightly shut. If the rod is longer, the waste gate is held loosely shut. If the rod is shorter, the actuator requires more boost pressure to open the waste gate the same distance as if it were adjusted longer. Result - more boost, faster spool up, as the waste gate is not opening quite as much, and not as quickly. The opposite goes if you lengthen the rod.
If you are using a feedback type of control (3 bar chip/aftermarket high performance controller) the adjustments won't have the same exact effect as it would on a non feedback type of control (ANS controller, bleeder valve, stock chip if you are running more than 15psi, as it cannot feedback control boost levels it cannot sense). On the non feedback controlled setups, adjusting your waste gate rod will adjust your boost level, and its response. On a feedback type of control, adjusting the rod will adjust the response more than the full boost level reached. It will affect the actual boost level, but it will usually take a more extreme response to do so, since your control system will take this change into account (with minor changes that is, but if you tighten TOO much, the waste gate may not be able to reach full open to bleed off enough pressure, not to mention what your waste gate can flow period). So you can dial in your waste gate rod to give you results closer to what you desire, as long as your system is working up to par. The actuator can also be out of spec, and there are full diagnostics for making sure it is working as it should.
Permatex -that is kind of broad. They make many products what do you mean?
I would think the rod from the arm that goes into the hot side would be where you could squeeze in some anti seize from the outside to make it not stick. Not the actuator.
Any thin liquid spray won't stay from the heat. Anti seize may stay in there and keep it free. I am talking about the silver stuff or even coper bearing anti seize. Anything like lube from a spray can will just be gone from the heat.
GM makes many types of these solenoids they look similar but why would they make so many different ones with different part #"s if they weren't in fact different. They may (and I don't know for sure) have a different coil resistance or act different with the chip we use and scaling for boost on our trucks.
Just trying to give you plenty of ideas to try out.
Read this for wastegate adjustment:
WASTEGATE ADJUSTMENTS
The waste gate arm (or waste gate rod) is the connection from the waste gate actuator to the waste gate lever itself. The waste gate lever itself is free moving, swinging freely. If it does not move freely (when disconnected from the waste gate rod) there is a problem, something impeding movement, and these needs to be fixed. Some stick intermittently, or only when HOT.
The waste gate actuator is spring loaded; clamping the waste gate closed when there is no boost source. When pressure is applied to the actuator, the actuator opens the waste gate. The rod's length can be adjusted, which means that the waste gate itself will have a different rate of bleeding of the exhaust depending on the adjustment. Good pictures and diagnostic tests are in the Syclone/Typhoon Service Supplement (on the CD Rom I believe).
The waste gate rod is connected to the waste gate lever. The lever has a pin, the rod slips on to it, and a retaining clip through the waste gate lever holds the arm/lever together. If you pull the pin, and slip the rod off the lever, the hole on the arm and the lever's pin should overlap slightly. In the manual it states to look for 1/2 overlap, so you'd have to pull the arm out of the actuator slightly (tight spring tension here) to connect the arm to the lever's pin. I believe the overlap spec has been updated so factory specs are now 7/8 overlap (basically a looser/longer rod setup). The arm's length can be adjusted as the rod end is threaded onto the rod. Tightening the end will shorten the waste gate, loosening lengthens it. If the rod is shorter, the waste gate is clamped more tightly shut. If the rod is longer, the waste gate is held loosely shut. If the rod is shorter, the actuator requires more boost pressure to open the waste gate the same distance as if it were adjusted longer. Result - more boost, faster spool up, as the waste gate is not opening quite as much, and not as quickly. The opposite goes if you lengthen the rod.
If you are using a feedback type of control (3 bar chip/aftermarket high performance controller) the adjustments won't have the same exact effect as it would on a non feedback type of control (ANS controller, bleeder valve, stock chip if you are running more than 15psi, as it cannot feedback control boost levels it cannot sense). On the non feedback controlled setups, adjusting your waste gate rod will adjust your boost level, and its response. On a feedback type of control, adjusting the rod will adjust the response more than the full boost level reached. It will affect the actual boost level, but it will usually take a more extreme response to do so, since your control system will take this change into account (with minor changes that is, but if you tighten TOO much, the waste gate may not be able to reach full open to bleed off enough pressure, not to mention what your waste gate can flow period). So you can dial in your waste gate rod to give you results closer to what you desire, as long as your system is working up to par. The actuator can also be out of spec, and there are full diagnostics for making sure it is working as it should.
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