Bowtie block ID help...
- Thread starter MadPSI
- Start date
Windedv6
Ty n 10s
Re: Bowtie block ID help...
It's a wet sump block. Have the blocks sonic checked to be sure they have centered cylinders. A lot of the left over blocks had core shift problems and were not used, thus still for sale. Many of these can't be bored very much without having a thin wall on one side.
It pays to make sure. Some were 3.99 bore castings and some where 4.125 bore castings. I will take dibs on one if you find out if they are good and will be selling one. Could be a nice find.
Keep me posted. I will help you out on anything I know (whatever that's worth).
John
MRKING said:
It's a wet sump block. Have the blocks sonic checked to be sure they have centered cylinders. A lot of the left over blocks had core shift problems and were not used, thus still for sale. Many of these can't be bored very much without having a thin wall on one side.
It pays to make sure. Some were 3.99 bore castings and some where 4.125 bore castings. I will take dibs on one if you find out if they are good and will be selling one. Could be a nice find.
Keep me posted. I will help you out on anything I know (whatever that's worth).
John
Re: Bowtie block ID help...
I'll be taking them to a shop for inspection on Monday. I'll let you know what I find out.
John, if they're good, you have dibs on one...
The seller said in his ad that they can be set up for wet or dry sump, but I obviously don't know the depth of his knowledge on these blocks, so he could be wrong...
Is there any other casting numbers/ID numbers/etc. that would help to know when I get there? I'll be taking my camera and shooting a crapload of pics for reference...
I'll be taking them to a shop for inspection on Monday. I'll let you know what I find out.
John, if they're good, you have dibs on one...
The seller said in his ad that they can be set up for wet or dry sump, but I obviously don't know the depth of his knowledge on these blocks, so he could be wrong...
Is there any other casting numbers/ID numbers/etc. that would help to know when I get there? I'll be taking my camera and shooting a crapload of pics for reference...
Windedv6
Ty n 10s
Re: Bowtie block ID help...
It can be converted to a dry sump. You would not want to though at this point. The oil fill tube is no problem. the machine will drill it out. This is a older block style and will have thinner casting on th front rear bulkheads, where the caps bolt into, than the later CNC blocks. It's no problem for what we do when them. You just can't 4-bolt the front and rear cap like the CNC blocks. Normally we just 4-bolt the center two anyway.
It would be prudent to have them sonic checked for wall thickness (all sides of each cylinders as well as length). A decent shop will do a thorogh job. If there are used,you need to have them mag'ed for any stress cracks. Check the bore size top, center and bottom. If it's a used block chech to be sure the previous owner did not machine out the cam journals for needle roller cam bearings. We can not find cams for our application for the oversized cam journals.
In the pics it looks as if this may be new blocks as the oil gallerys are not yet machined an pluged. Still need a sonic check for wall thickness even on an unused block. Did I say sonic check again? It's important! Just because it a HD Bowtie block doesn't mean it was cast correctly!
John
MadPSI said:I'll be taking them to a shop for inspection on Monday. I'll let you know what I find out.
John, if they're good, you have dibs on one...
The seller said in his ad that they can be set up for wet or dry sump, but I obviously don't know the depth of his knowledge on these blocks, so he could be wrong...
Is there any other casting numbers/ID numbers/etc. that would help to know when I get there? I'll be taking my camera and shooting a crapload of pics for reference...
It can be converted to a dry sump. You would not want to though at this point. The oil fill tube is no problem. the machine will drill it out. This is a older block style and will have thinner casting on th front rear bulkheads, where the caps bolt into, than the later CNC blocks. It's no problem for what we do when them. You just can't 4-bolt the front and rear cap like the CNC blocks. Normally we just 4-bolt the center two anyway.
It would be prudent to have them sonic checked for wall thickness (all sides of each cylinders as well as length). A decent shop will do a thorogh job. If there are used,you need to have them mag'ed for any stress cracks. Check the bore size top, center and bottom. If it's a used block chech to be sure the previous owner did not machine out the cam journals for needle roller cam bearings. We can not find cams for our application for the oversized cam journals.
In the pics it looks as if this may be new blocks as the oil gallerys are not yet machined an pluged. Still need a sonic check for wall thickness even on an unused block. Did I say sonic check again? It's important! Just because it a HD Bowtie block doesn't mean it was cast correctly!
John
Re: Bowtie block ID help...
Well, I picked up the blocks and brought them home today. The engine builder that is going to look at them is going to call tomorrow and we'll be looking at these.
I made a couple measurements with my calipers in the meantime, here's what I found:
- I believe the casting numbers say 14044899.
- Another marking says 899 and H1.
- All cylinder bores are right around 3.96", at least at the top.
- Both cam journals measured at 2.00".
Now that they're in my possession, I can take better photos of them...
Well, I picked up the blocks and brought them home today. The engine builder that is going to look at them is going to call tomorrow and we'll be looking at these.
I made a couple measurements with my calipers in the meantime, here's what I found:
- I believe the casting numbers say 14044899.
- Another marking says 899 and H1.
- All cylinder bores are right around 3.96", at least at the top.
- Both cam journals measured at 2.00".
Now that they're in my possession, I can take better photos of them...