brandon's propshaft not fitting?

X

Xplicit Racing Design

New member
well i got what is supposedly a brandon's propshaft from a board member, well the problem is that where the shaft bolts to the front diff there is a machined relief in it, and on diff where it bolts to there is a male version so the shaft is centered , the front diff is 15 thousands bigger than the joint on the propshaft, anyone run into this problem before? i know this is hard to read and actually sounds dirty, but its the best i could do


thanks John S
 
Turboz

Turboz

NASTE
i ran into the same problem with mine. Mine is not a Brondaon propshaft, but I couldn't get mine to fit either. I did find a new flange to fit both the diff and the prop shaft. I'll see if I can dig up the number and get to you.
 
M

MadPSI

Member
Argh... Another reason I dropped my damn builder.

About 10 minutes with a dremel and sanding sleeve will make it fit. I had to do it for mine also. Sand a little, try it out, sand a little more, try it out, etc. etc.. I had -.000" +.005" on that diameter in my prints but I guess the guy went really material-safe on it.

Did that shaft come with sleeves pressed in the front of it? If not you're going to need them also. My new builder has an actual QA department, but he's due back at the shop in a month, so the new shafts won't be ready for a while.

Turboz: Could you shoot me that number when you get it? It'd also be helpful to know what the bolt hole diameter is on those also.
 
Tydriver

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
SY2932 said:
After I got my transmission range select lever cut and rewelded to clear the additional girth of my Gilbert Driveline propshaft NO fitament problems.

http://huryde.station180.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=mikecampbellakaSY2932&id=aak

http://huryde.station180.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=mikecampbellakaSY2932&id=aal

MANY other buyers have reported the same... Vibration tested at 100 plus MPH without any problems.

Mike Campbell
Click to expand...

DITTO ON WHAT HE SAID. The Gilbert shaft is a dream to install, minor mods to the Shift Linkage but I havent heard a single complaint yet from anyone thats running it, not to mention, its damn near nuclear proof.
 
R

RedlineRex

New member
could someone please expand on the cut/weld mod for the tranny shift linkage? the clearance problems i have been experiencing with my aftermarket propshaft is felt during some of the harder shifts and it can be felt in in the shifter. i was wondering if there was another approach to remedy this situation (e.g. slightly shim the front diff in the driver's side direction, but i think that will be a PITA)
thanks
 
Tydriver

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
RedlineRex said:
could someone please expand on the cut/weld mod for the tranny shift linkage? the clearance problems i have been experiencing with my aftermarket propshaft is felt during some of the harder shifts and it can be felt in in the shifter. i was wondering if there was another approach to remedy this situation (e.g. slightly shim the front diff in the driver's side direction, but i think that will be a PITA)
thanks
Click to expand...
I cant imagine why you'd be feeling it in the shifter since its cable all the way down (ie, no RIGID connection to the trans).. I'd certainly suggest that you check both of your motor mounts and your trans mount for wear. Sounds to me like something is moving around under yer feet :-?
 
SY2932

SY2932

Administrator
Like Todd posted, you have other problems going on besides your transmission shift linkage. This is what the modification to the shift linkage looks like anywho: http://huryde.station180.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=mikecampbellakaSY2932&id=ago

As per line 6 of the instructions: "To provide clearance for the larger diameter driveshaft the range selector lever must be modified to reduce the offset in the lever by 1/4" (Fig.2). Cut the lever at the approximate location as shown, remove approx. 1/8" of material, straighten the bend slightly and reweld at the cut. Be extremely careful to retain the 3" center to center distance of the holes in the bracket for proper shifting of the vehicle. Reinstall the lever as removed from the vehicle." HTH's

Mike Campbell
 
M

Mybad

New member
k...

k...

Hey fellas...sorry to light up an old thread...

Anyway...I'm doing the whole "propshaft" thing. I was curious...does anyone else run a different linkage? I need to modify mine for a bigger shaft(who doesn't like saying that)but the hole-to-hole dimension on my tranny is only an inch and three quarters. The one pictured in the post above says three. Hmmmm...

The tranny came from TPI and I wasn't around for the install...maybe it came with it? I dunno. I'm going to modify it the same way but was curious if anyone else has seen anything similar. I don't think it should really matter...but I just don't know.

Tranny Yoda...anyone?
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
might try just makin a new bracket that holds the shift cable. pretty simple little bracket and or move your old one aorund untoil you can make it work. but you need that 3"
 
M

Mybad

New member
well...the tranny has been shifting fine for 3 years with this bracket...I'm just modifying it to fit with the new shaft...I'm going to put it on now and try it out...

If you feel the three inches are needed, how would you explain my lack of problems for so long? Luck? Fate? Impending tranny death?

?
 
B

Blake

Guest
Don't worry about it.
If your shifter indicator lines up correctly and you are positive that the tranny is FULLY into each gear as indicated by a solid detent feel and you have full range of all gear (PNR OD D 2 L) then you are fine. Just make sure your bracket stays perpendicular to the rod that it is clipped onto. IOW don't just bend the bracket. It can bind and cause premature cable failure or tranny failure if it doesn't allow the manual shaft to fully engage each gear.
It is possible that previously your transmission shift cable broke and instead of getting a new one(which I don't think is available anymore) they got a different one with a matching bracket. As long as it works right, your in good shape.
I had to edit this. There may be a misunderstanding. What they are talking about is 3" of travel for the cable to move in and out. They are not talking about the bracket itself I don't believe. You must have the 3" throw to be able to engage all the selections. I think that's what's happened, hell, I don't know. I'm gonna go have a beer.
Later
 
M

Mybad

New member
Thanks for the replies!

Well, I had the existing bracket modified in the manner described in said diagram. The only thing my man with the welder said was the sum' bitch was hard as all hell. He welded it up with SS and I rushed home to put in my shaft. Word. The bracket functions normally and engages all gears. I put 52ft/lbs on the bolts and took it out. Seems kew to me. I did give the rolled edge of the tranny-pan a kinetic adjustment.

I'll know more a few days of driving and shhhh hitting three digits merely to check for vibration, officer.

woOt!
 
M

Mybad

New member
Lighting up an old thread again....

Well, the new shaft was, from what I can tell, balanced properly. I was standing there when he spun it up on the machine. Looked good to me.

Anyway...I had a pretty heinous vibration that started at about 42mph and ended/smoothed out around 63mph. Sucked. I took off the differential end and clocked it 90 degrees. I lost about 70 percent of the vibration. The window shrunk to beginning around 50mph and ending about 58mph. It's more of a harmonic thing. The vibration is noticable, but stops short of violent. Anyway, what do you guys think? Take off the t-case end and clock it 90 degrees? I don't want to thrash anything else and I know vibration will surely do it... My last resort would be to take it to another shop to have them spin it up.

Also...if the uni's on the rear driveshaft were getting iffy...would putting in a new, stouter propshaft make them more likely to produce a vibration? I guess I should just replace them as well...137,000 miles is probably enough... :D

Anxiously awaiting enlightenment...

mybad
 
SY2932

SY2932

Administrator
Check the caps on the U-joints on the rear driveshaft to see if any of them have spun... A bud and I replaced ours last year. You have to heat the ends of the driveshaft to get the plastic nylon retainer that holds them in place to "pop" out (it sounds like a firecraker when it goes off) to get the old ones out. We just laid them in front of his torpedo heater and it got the job done. A propane torch would work as well but, be sure to wear eye protection. HTH's

Mike Campbell
 
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