Eric Fischer
Member
My OEM pump finally died.
What is latest thinking on a replacement?
What is latest thinking on a replacement?
Rob: I meant the upper hose on the Lower. I've pulled over a dozen stock Lowers over the years, and on every one of them the upper hose was bent over 90 deg, and almost crimped shut. I either put in a 90 deg hose elbow, or there are also 6' long 3/4" hoses with a 90 at one end. I sometimes use these, but they are pricey and can be difficult to find.
I imagine alot of original pumps are not working, for fun I sent a message to a few Tys forsale in the past and asked if the IC pump was working. They replied they had no idea.It's all good, Rob. I edited my post to reflect that the kinked hose is actually the outlet hose on the pump, not "the upper hose on the Lower". Your pic shows the remedy clearly. Thanks.
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My associate and I have had the 93 Wht/Gry that I drive now for 23 years. I have done numerous road trips, and long distance driving in it. My Ty cruises at 70-ish on cruise at about 0 psi, with even slight uphills getting to 2-3 psi. So the induction system is producing heat even at highway cruise. I would experience severe detonation if I were to apply WOT (like passing) after the engine was heat soaked at highway speeds. I thought that kind of unusual, and wrote it off to "boost control" problems, and just tried not to get on it hard during extended highway operation.
A few months ago I diagnosed the original pump was no longer working. I dropped the lower for the first time in over 20 years, and installed the Johnson pump above, and fixed the badly kinked outlet hose. I no longer have any detonation under any conditions. So the stock system is capable of keeping MAT low enough to prevent detonation at highway cruising. The kinked hose was the issue causing the detonation at highway speeds.