Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
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Captain Morgan
Moderated User
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
I modified a 9/16" box wrench (bent & shortened) to break it loose/tighten, then I use whatever ratchet/extention/fingers I have available.
I modified a 9/16" box wrench (bent & shortened) to break it loose/tighten, then I use whatever ratchet/extention/fingers I have available.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
That bolt is in a tough spot. If original the hold down "fork" is slotted and will slide of the dist when you tighten it leaving the bolt tight and the dist loose. Be sure to check when finished that the dist is, in fact, tight.
I was never able to get the 1/4 drive swivel to work. I use a short 1/2 by 9/16 box end. I have one of your wrenches as well. Not a good choice IMO either. Trouble is the bolt is almost impossible to see -and- get a wrench on at the same time.
That bolt is in a tough spot. If original the hold down "fork" is slotted and will slide of the dist when you tighten it leaving the bolt tight and the dist loose. Be sure to check when finished that the dist is, in fact, tight.
I was never able to get the 1/4 drive swivel to work. I use a short 1/2 by 9/16 box end. I have one of your wrenches as well. Not a good choice IMO either. Trouble is the bolt is almost impossible to see -and- get a wrench on at the same time.
AutoVation
Member
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
The MSD just came in today, I'm going to replace it tomorrow. How long should this take? 15 minutes, 30 minutes? :dunno: 5 minutes unless I drop/strip a bolt and then it will take 3 hours to find/fix the bolt?:doh:
The MSD just came in today, I'm going to replace it tomorrow. How long should this take? 15 minutes, 30 minutes? :dunno: 5 minutes unless I drop/strip a bolt and then it will take 3 hours to find/fix the bolt?:doh:
cloneman315
Active member
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
that wrench will work
that wrench will work
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
9/16" swivel socket preferably with 12 point and a 12-16" long 1/4" drive. start on the driver side of the distributor, get the socket below the fuel rail loop and the injector wiring harness, then drag it accross towards the head of the bolt. turn the extension till it grabs ahold of the bolt, then crack it loose.
be sure to have a locking extension or tape the socket to the extension b/c it will fall off and dissapear.
this is by far the best method.
9/16" swivel socket preferably with 12 point and a 12-16" long 1/4" drive. start on the driver side of the distributor, get the socket below the fuel rail loop and the injector wiring harness, then drag it accross towards the head of the bolt. turn the extension till it grabs ahold of the bolt, then crack it loose.
be sure to have a locking extension or tape the socket to the extension b/c it will fall off and dissapear.
this is by far the best method.
AutoVation
Member
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
THANK YOU for the detailed description! I need to pick up a longer extension (i've got the tape already!)
THANK YOU for the detailed description! I need to pick up a longer extension (i've got the tape already!)
SY2932
Administrator
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
Yep, that's how I have always done mine too. I even have an adapter that I use that allows me to use my 3/8" ratchet on my 1/4" extension if the bolt is stubborn. Don't forget to disconnect the ESC wire under the dash when you set the timing...
"The ESC Electronic Spark Timing "tan wire with a black stripe" that everyone can't find when attempting to set their timing (s-series). Wire is under the carpet on the passenger side below the heater box. It is disconnected to set the timing, then reconnected."
Yep, that's how I have always done mine too. I even have an adapter that I use that allows me to use my 3/8" ratchet on my 1/4" extension if the bolt is stubborn. Don't forget to disconnect the ESC wire under the dash when you set the timing...
"The ESC Electronic Spark Timing "tan wire with a black stripe" that everyone can't find when attempting to set their timing (s-series). Wire is under the carpet on the passenger side below the heater box. It is disconnected to set the timing, then reconnected."
It's just a six
Super Member
AutoVation
Member
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
I tried using the distributor wrench and "snap", broke the tool. :bad-word:
Top = 1/2" distributor wrench "whole"
Bottom = 9/16" distributor wrench busted
The space is too tight to fit a 9/16" socket with a seperate swivel adapter. This combination is too tall to fit underneath the ditributor.
I can't find anyone in town with a 9/16" swivel socket with a 1/4" drive. I'm only finding impact tools or hand tools with a 3/8" drive. Can someone throw up a link to the correct part?
If I can't find the tool today, it looks like I have to go the route in the manual and basically take off most of the top of the engine to get to it.
Also, can you confirm this is the bolt I need to undo? I could get a shorty wrench on it for this pic but no leverage. In this pic, is that also the cracked magnet causing my tachometer issues?
I tried using the distributor wrench and "snap", broke the tool. :bad-word:
Top = 1/2" distributor wrench "whole"
Bottom = 9/16" distributor wrench busted
The space is too tight to fit a 9/16" socket with a seperate swivel adapter. This combination is too tall to fit underneath the ditributor.
I can't find anyone in town with a 9/16" swivel socket with a 1/4" drive. I'm only finding impact tools or hand tools with a 3/8" drive. Can someone throw up a link to the correct part?
If I can't find the tool today, it looks like I have to go the route in the manual and basically take off most of the top of the engine to get to it.
Also, can you confirm this is the bolt I need to undo? I could get a shorty wrench on it for this pic but no leverage. In this pic, is that also the cracked magnet causing my tachometer issues?
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
I am not quite sure how you broke the distributor wrench. Yes that is the right bolt in the bottom picture
This is what I have
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ame=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&sName=Sockets
I am not quite sure how you broke the distributor wrench. Yes that is the right bolt in the bottom picture
This is what I have
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ame=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&sName=Sockets
SY2932
Administrator
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
NO NO NO! You're going about it all wrong. I have the flex sockets from Craftsman too but I don't use them for the distributor hold down bolt (unless I *want* to get in a bad mood). You want to use a 1/4" 9/16" socket, universal joint and long extension. As I mentioned in my previous post, I have an adapter that is 1/4" on the male end and 3/8" on the female end so that I can use my 3/8" ratchet to break the bolt loose if it's stubborn. You need everything to be 1/4" so that you can get on the bolt easily and be able to TURN it too. Going 1/4" gives you plenty of room between the fuel rail and the distributor.
I go at it from the passenger side of the truck. With this "set up" in your left hand, reach around the intake from the drivers side with your right hand and pull the fuel injector wiring harness towards the back of the upper intake so that is out of the way. You can then "thread" the socket in between the distributor and fuel rail. The trick is to sweep it from out in the open into the space between the distributor and fuel rail. You aren't doing it right if the socket is above the top of the distributor at any point. Don't attach the ratchet until you get the socket on the head of the bolt. It's easier than falling in love...
NO NO NO! You're going about it all wrong. I have the flex sockets from Craftsman too but I don't use them for the distributor hold down bolt (unless I *want* to get in a bad mood). You want to use a 1/4" 9/16" socket, universal joint and long extension. As I mentioned in my previous post, I have an adapter that is 1/4" on the male end and 3/8" on the female end so that I can use my 3/8" ratchet to break the bolt loose if it's stubborn. You need everything to be 1/4" so that you can get on the bolt easily and be able to TURN it too. Going 1/4" gives you plenty of room between the fuel rail and the distributor.
I go at it from the passenger side of the truck. With this "set up" in your left hand, reach around the intake from the drivers side with your right hand and pull the fuel injector wiring harness towards the back of the upper intake so that is out of the way. You can then "thread" the socket in between the distributor and fuel rail. The trick is to sweep it from out in the open into the space between the distributor and fuel rail. You aren't doing it right if the socket is above the top of the distributor at any point. Don't attach the ratchet until you get the socket on the head of the bolt. It's easier than falling in love...
Houseofperformance
switchhappy!!!
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
the solution to all dist. bolt problems:
the solution to all dist. bolt problems:
Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?
I use a 12pt crowfoot along with a 10" long extension and go straight down between the distributor and the intake. You can reach the bolt from above because crowfoot would be thin enough to slip under the distributor. If you have already removed the dist cap, than you should be able too reach the bolt fairly easy. Just make sure you have some way to lock the crowfoot onto the extension to prevent it from falling down into the engine. Using a socket wrench/ratchet should give you enough leverage to break the bolt free. This set-up would be similiar to the wrench pictured by Houseofperformance.
I use a 12pt crowfoot along with a 10" long extension and go straight down between the distributor and the intake. You can reach the bolt from above because crowfoot would be thin enough to slip under the distributor. If you have already removed the dist cap, than you should be able too reach the bolt fairly easy. Just make sure you have some way to lock the crowfoot onto the extension to prevent it from falling down into the engine. Using a socket wrench/ratchet should give you enough leverage to break the bolt free. This set-up would be similiar to the wrench pictured by Houseofperformance.
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