Check Engine light & poor driveability
- Thread starter Wraythe
- Start date
Re: Check Engine light & poor driveability
Dave,
Thank you sooooooooooo much for taking the time to help me! I owe you a quad-shot latte if not something not something stronger
Is it possible these are old codes stored and never erased?
Another symptom I'm experiencing with my Syclone is, if I'm going 30 MPH then goto wide open throttle, it will go like a raped ape for approximately 10-15 yards, then it falls on its face.
I'm planning to start driving my Syclone daily this week to force me to resolve this drivability issue. I'm planning to place an order this week with SportMachines for the vacuum line kit and a new front fender flare.
I will follow your troubleshooting steps and report back
Thank you!!!
Dave,
Thank you sooooooooooo much for taking the time to help me! I owe you a quad-shot latte if not something not something stronger
Is it possible these are old codes stored and never erased?
Another symptom I'm experiencing with my Syclone is, if I'm going 30 MPH then goto wide open throttle, it will go like a raped ape for approximately 10-15 yards, then it falls on its face.
I'm planning to start driving my Syclone daily this week to force me to resolve this drivability issue. I'm planning to place an order this week with SportMachines for the vacuum line kit and a new front fender flare.
I will follow your troubleshooting steps and report back
Thank you!!!
SY2455
70's Veteran
Re: Check Engine light & poor driveability
I would not go and get on it at all until you do all of the basic stuff. Replace your vacuum line and by all means do a fresh tune up on it. Change the fuel filter and do a oil change while you are at it.
NOTE: even after you do all of this stuff, NEVER GET ON IT WITH A 1/4 TANK or LESS OF GAS, It would not be good for your truck or your wallet.
I would not go and get on it at all until you do all of the basic stuff. Replace your vacuum line and by all means do a fresh tune up on it. Change the fuel filter and do a oil change while you are at it.
NOTE: even after you do all of this stuff, NEVER GET ON IT WITH A 1/4 TANK or LESS OF GAS, It would not be good for your truck or your wallet.
Re: Check Engine light & poor driveability
Agreed and don't worry, I have no plans to cause me anymore pain and suffering :tup:
Agreed and don't worry, I have no plans to cause me anymore pain and suffering :tup:
Re: Check Engine light & poor driveability
I don't recall the tach ever fluttering however I keep an eye on it this week
I don't recall the tach ever fluttering however I keep an eye on it this week
DaveP
Active member
Re: Check Engine light & poor driveability
This sounds like fuel starvation such as running with a low tank as Lloyd mentioned above, or perhaps the fuel pump is dying.Or maybe over boost cut. Does the CEL come on? Have you ever set a Code 31 Overboost? I had a plugged cat in my first Ty over 15 years ago. Was a bitch to figure out, but it did it everytime. Ran great, then fell on its face, running like shit for a few seconds until it cleared up, set Code 31, then after 10 seconds or so it was running like nothing had happened a tall. Until I got on it again.
Be very careful driving it with all these problems. You seem to have more than one issue. The symptoms you're describing, the codes you've found, and other clues are all over the place as far as the potential deficiencies. Driving a poorly-running Syclone into intentional overboost, or detonation, or fuel starvation is inviting a catastrophe like piston damage or worse. Be very careful.
Possibly, but most codes erase themselves if they do not reset in 50 ignition cycles.
This sounds like fuel starvation such as running with a low tank as Lloyd mentioned above, or perhaps the fuel pump is dying.Or maybe over boost cut. Does the CEL come on? Have you ever set a Code 31 Overboost? I had a plugged cat in my first Ty over 15 years ago. Was a bitch to figure out, but it did it everytime. Ran great, then fell on its face, running like shit for a few seconds until it cleared up, set Code 31, then after 10 seconds or so it was running like nothing had happened a tall. Until I got on it again.
Be very careful driving it with all these problems. You seem to have more than one issue. The symptoms you're describing, the codes you've found, and other clues are all over the place as far as the potential deficiencies. Driving a poorly-running Syclone into intentional overboost, or detonation, or fuel starvation is inviting a catastrophe like piston damage or worse. Be very careful.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Check Engine light & poor driveability
As DaveP said it sound like you have a combination of issues.
If it was my truck (or any new to me SyTy) I would replace
It also might be a good idea to change all the fluids as well. I would then get a laptop and scan tool such as Datamaster, tuner pro, or scan master to see real time data. With the scan tool you can see how the engine is running.
As DaveP said it sound like you have a combination of issues.
If it was my truck (or any new to me SyTy) I would replace
- Cap & Rotor (brass contacts)
- Spark Plug Wires
- Correct spark plugs (AC Delco CR42TS, NGK UR5 or U6)
- Clean Throttle Body and EGR Passages
- Vacuum Lines (or repair stock hard lines)
- Verify Intercooler pump operation
- Check TDC with a piston stop to see if the balancer has slipped
- Verify timing is 0 degree
- fuel pump (No eBay Walbro's)
- Fuel Filter
It also might be a good idea to change all the fluids as well. I would then get a laptop and scan tool such as Datamaster, tuner pro, or scan master to see real time data. With the scan tool you can see how the engine is running.
Re: Check Engine light & poor driveability
Syclone & Typhoon Comrades,
I just finished installing SportMachines silicon vacuum line kit. This was an easy but a time consuming project. The hardness part of the install was figuring out how to get the damn battery out then reinstalling it. I finally removed the overfill tank which then gave me the clearance to remove / install the battery.
I test drove the Syclone and ALL drivability problems are gone. I have the following items to check as per suggestions from here:
1. Check timing (hoping to do this tomorrow)
2. Verify intercooler pump is functioning (hoping to do this tomorrow)
3. Install new fuel filter (doing this tomorrow)
4. Install new NGK spark plugs from SportMachines
Now that the drivability problems are resolved, is it safe to start driving it daily?
Thank you
PS - Boost gauge is now working progressively as you accelerate
Syclone & Typhoon Comrades,
I just finished installing SportMachines silicon vacuum line kit. This was an easy but a time consuming project. The hardness part of the install was figuring out how to get the damn battery out then reinstalling it. I finally removed the overfill tank which then gave me the clearance to remove / install the battery.
I test drove the Syclone and ALL drivability problems are gone. I have the following items to check as per suggestions from here:
1. Check timing (hoping to do this tomorrow)
2. Verify intercooler pump is functioning (hoping to do this tomorrow)
3. Install new fuel filter (doing this tomorrow)
4. Install new NGK spark plugs from SportMachines
Now that the drivability problems are resolved, is it safe to start driving it daily?
Thank you
PS - Boost gauge is now working progressively as you accelerate
Skinny_Army
New Zealand
Re: Check Engine light & poor driveability
this sounds exactly like what my ty is doing.
It will start and idle fine, then I gave it a good kick on the throttle down the road and engine light came on, it runs super rich, shudders with thick black smoke under boost and the indash "Boost" gauge is reading ZERO. BUT there is also a knocking sound coming from inside the upper intake manifold. It is not a constant knock though. Inititally I thought valve or rod but it is very inconsistant. it may knock twice then stop for 3 - 4 seconds then knock once go quiet then knock 3 times then quiet its very irratic. I have not taken the intake manifold off for a look yet as the car is at my parents place and still awaiting complience checks to go onto New Zealand roads. Any help and thoughts would be great. I dont want to start ripping it appart as there are not any parts available over here and cost of shipping is a nightmare. Costs almost tiwce as much as a part just for the mailing
this sounds exactly like what my ty is doing.
It will start and idle fine, then I gave it a good kick on the throttle down the road and engine light came on, it runs super rich, shudders with thick black smoke under boost and the indash "Boost" gauge is reading ZERO. BUT there is also a knocking sound coming from inside the upper intake manifold. It is not a constant knock though. Inititally I thought valve or rod but it is very inconsistant. it may knock twice then stop for 3 - 4 seconds then knock once go quiet then knock 3 times then quiet its very irratic. I have not taken the intake manifold off for a look yet as the car is at my parents place and still awaiting complience checks to go onto New Zealand roads. Any help and thoughts would be great. I dont want to start ripping it appart as there are not any parts available over here and cost of shipping is a nightmare. Costs almost tiwce as much as a part just for the mailing