turbodig
Active member
Re: Chip
The metal line is there for a reason... to keep the heater hose away from the turbo as it passes by there. Essentially, holds it up.
That bolt out of the + side of the battery is a fire waiting to happen. In fact, I suspect that's what happened to your hose, the bolt rubbed a hole in it, contacted the wire, and smoked.
Next time boost hit it, it blew open.
Go to a parts store and get a 2" radiator hose that has a 90 degree bend in it, long enough to make it from the turbo to the IC.
Also get a replacement battery bolt so you can get rid of the other thing. Hard to tell what that other wire is, but you could just route it to the power block behind the IC on the firewall.
While you're at the parts store, get a couple cans of brake cleaner. Take your IC off,. and spray brake cleaner where the air enters/exits. Kinda fill the thing up with cleaner. Shake it around in there to flush the gunk out. Spray more cleaner in there, and repeat.
If you haven't done plugs/wires/cap/rotor, get them at the parts store too. NGK UR5 or AC CR42TS. I've had good luck with the Autolite pro wires. Make sure you wire-tie the wires as far away from exhaust parts as possible. There should always be at least one finger's worth of air gap between any wire and the exhaust.
Grab a can of sea-foam at the parts store. Follow the directions for a top-end clean, I usually use the FPR vacuum hose to suck the sea-foam in.
Vacuum lines, if they haven't been done already, will need to be re-done. Betcha you have lots of leaks. Most guys go with silicone stuff to replace it.
Need to verify the IC pump works. With the engine off, pull the connector from the IC relay on the firewall behind the IC (it's the one to the right). Short the middle terminal of the 3 on the side to the one on the bottom... big wires on both. You should hear the pump whirr.
Make sure there there isn't any air in the IC coolant, if you've removed it, you're like to have gotten some in there.
There's lots of other stuff to check, but these are the basics.
Boostedpimp said:
The metal line is there for a reason... to keep the heater hose away from the turbo as it passes by there. Essentially, holds it up.
That bolt out of the + side of the battery is a fire waiting to happen. In fact, I suspect that's what happened to your hose, the bolt rubbed a hole in it, contacted the wire, and smoked.
Next time boost hit it, it blew open.
Go to a parts store and get a 2" radiator hose that has a 90 degree bend in it, long enough to make it from the turbo to the IC.
Also get a replacement battery bolt so you can get rid of the other thing. Hard to tell what that other wire is, but you could just route it to the power block behind the IC on the firewall.
While you're at the parts store, get a couple cans of brake cleaner. Take your IC off,. and spray brake cleaner where the air enters/exits. Kinda fill the thing up with cleaner. Shake it around in there to flush the gunk out. Spray more cleaner in there, and repeat.
If you haven't done plugs/wires/cap/rotor, get them at the parts store too. NGK UR5 or AC CR42TS. I've had good luck with the Autolite pro wires. Make sure you wire-tie the wires as far away from exhaust parts as possible. There should always be at least one finger's worth of air gap between any wire and the exhaust.
Grab a can of sea-foam at the parts store. Follow the directions for a top-end clean, I usually use the FPR vacuum hose to suck the sea-foam in.
Vacuum lines, if they haven't been done already, will need to be re-done. Betcha you have lots of leaks. Most guys go with silicone stuff to replace it.
Need to verify the IC pump works. With the engine off, pull the connector from the IC relay on the firewall behind the IC (it's the one to the right). Short the middle terminal of the 3 on the side to the one on the bottom... big wires on both. You should hear the pump whirr.
Make sure there there isn't any air in the IC coolant, if you've removed it, you're like to have gotten some in there.
There's lots of other stuff to check, but these are the basics.
