lol whats up with the noise when you take off like you were at six flags about to get sick. btw nice runs
looks like you had lots of fun.
times slips ?
test and tunes are good times, from what i can remember, nine years since the track closed here....
lol whats up with the noise when you take off like you were at six flags about to get sick. btw nice runs
:2cents:
Are you driving through the water box? If you are, you want to drive around it.
If you are spinning, lower your 2 step rpm until you can't feel it spin. I couldn't tell from the video, but if your truck starts hopping when spins, you want to avoid any hopping. Hopping is very hard on the transmission, it is probably the worst stress a transmission that it will see. A built transmission will break from hopping.
I would turn your boost down to 13-15psi range and dial in the tune. Slowly increase the boost and dial it in and then add timing. Even a built engine can be damaged. No point in running ~12.9-13.0 quarter's but with enough boost to run well into the 11's. Even with the traction issue, your mph is nowhere near where it needs to be for a 11's seconds pass. You truck should run easy 12's with vortec/cam and 13-15psi. If you going to run alky, I would even run it even low boost, because your going to need to tune it for higher boost levels anyways.
He is dead so he probably has no idea what your talking about.
i went 8.3 at 1/8 with 4 psi launch. Spin all the times
mph?
That's my question, how can I turn boost down and gain?
Your tune is off, so if you dial in your tune it should be faster at lower boost level.
My logic is for dial the car in at lower boost is that it decreases the chance for damage. I would rather slowly nudge up the boost level while check the fueling (and eventually the timing) as you increase the boost level. You will have to play with alky setting as well, but it should give you a handle on how it affects the AFR as you slowly make changes one at a time. You have a new engine setup, you could very have a sensor that is off or mechanical set up issue from the new engine. I know when I swapped in a new engine it took me a little while to fix the little bugs.
with just key on and not running the fuel pump will prime for 2-3 seconds and then go off and restart when cranking and after it has started so that is normal.
with the truck on a drive on rack or on jack stands with suspension loaded you should be able to un bolt drive shaft and push it in to transfer case at least an inch. I all ways do that and mark the yoke at the seal with a sharpe then reinstall it back into pinion and this will give you a measurement. if you do it on a drive on ramp make sure you chaulk the tires. bad story but a local guy removed his drive shaft and did not chaulk his tires while it was still on ground and well he is not with us anymore.
chaulk
Word not found in the Dictionary and Encyclopedia
What are you talking about?
chaulk
Word not found in the Dictionary and Encyclopedia
What are you talking about?
The correct spelling would be Chock [chok]
It's a noun and the definition would be:
1) A wedge or block of wood, metal, or the like, for filling in a space, holding an object steady, etc.