engine removable questions

autoaddictions

Active member
Ok alittle help here please. Im taking my engine out and im almost there but does the front diff have to come out or can i lift the engine out and over it ? I did not remove the transmission ,as advised it could stay in. Top trans bolts where a bitch!!!! Any help !
 

denny

Active member
Re: engine removable questions

You don't have to touch anything on the front diff to get the engine out.

Done this a few weeks ago, unbolt the trans/tc from the engine.
Took out both fenderwell, easy access to the engine mounts, thats all.
 

autoaddictions

Active member
Re: engine removable questions

denny said:
You don't have to touch anything on the front diff to get the engine out.

Done this a few weeks ago, unbolt the trans/tc from the engine.
Took out both fenderwell, easy access to the engine mounts, thats all.

I thought it come out that way. Ive removed both fender wells and trans bolts as well as TC botls. The top trans bolts were hard as hell to get out! Rad. is out shroud is out. Wires all out of the way. Im working on oil cooler lines now did you just unbolt the puck under the motor where it bolts to the block? Thats messing me up now. Thanks
 

denny

Active member
Re: engine removable questions

autoaddictions said:
I thought it come out that way. Ive removed both fender wells and trans bolts as well as TC botls. The top trans bolts were hard as hell to get out! Rad. is out shroud is out. Wires all out of the way. Im working on oil cooler lines now did you just unbolt the puck under the motor where it bolts to the block? Thats messing me up now. Thanks

For the oil cooler, I take the line if off the radiator and the filter mount/bracker off the fender, left it all together with the lines still attached to the bottom of the motor.

The oil lines from under the engine are run under the exhaust manifold, it would be a bitch to get out unless you take out the exhaust manifold.

Hope this help.
 

ghettosled

SYTY SUPERSTORE
Re: engine removable questions

leave the trans in and dont touch the front diff. If you have the flexplate shield install you may need to remove the propshaft to get to some of the torx bolts.

As for the top trans bolts get a 9/16" 6 point universal socket with a LONG extension. The top two you can get by hand and a ratcheting wrench comes in handy.

As for the motor mount bolts, it is best to remove the exhaust x-over to get better access to the nuts. Pull the radiator and power steering pump out as well (need puller) Leave the lines connected and just set aside. Pull pass side fender. You can leave the headers, turbo, etc all on. I recommend removing the upper intake though.

I'm down to about 3 hrs flat removing a motor by myself :)
 

QUICK STORM

B.A.M.F. BMW Tech
Re: engine removable questions

ghettosled said:
leave the trans in and dont touch the front diff. If you have the flexplate shield install you may need to remove the propshaft to get to some of the torx bolts.

As for the top trans bolts get a 9/16" 6 point universal socket with a LONG extension. The top two you can get by hand and a ratcheting wrench comes in handy.

As for the motor mount bolts, it is best to remove the exhaust x-over to get better access to the nuts. Pull the radiator and power steering pump out as well (need puller) Leave the lines connected and just set aside. Pull pass side fender. You can leave the headers, turbo, etc all on. I recommend removing the upper intake though.

I'm down to about 3 hrs flat removing a motor by myself :)

this is how i did mine.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: engine removable questions

ghettosled said:
I'm down to about 3 hrs flat removing a motor by myself :)

Now that's experience. My hats off to ya.:tup: My first hot rod was a '65 GMC PU with a 400 CI 59 Olds V8 and a Muncie 4 sp. Could pull that by myself from drive in to on the floor in 2 hrs. No turbo and no AC though...
 

autoaddictions

Active member
Re: engine removable questions

ghettosled said:
leave the trans in and dont touch the front diff. If you have the flexplate shield install you may need to remove the propshaft to get to some of the torx bolts.

As for the top trans bolts get a 9/16" 6 point universal socket with a LONG extension. The top two you can get by hand and a ratcheting wrench comes in handy.

As for the motor mount bolts, it is best to remove the exhaust x-over to get better access to the nuts. Pull the radiator and power steering pump out as well (need puller) Leave the lines connected and just set aside. Pull pass side fender. You can leave the headers, turbo, etc all on. I recommend removing the upper intake though.

I'm down to about 3 hrs flat removing a motor by myself :)

Thanks alot good info here. Ill be calling you guys in a couple days to order parts. I just dont know whats wrong yet! My motor runs but knocks bad no metal in oil at all. Must be a bent rod!!!! Anyway thanks alot.

3hrs engine out you guys are the sy/ty gods!!!
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: engine removable questions

autoaddictions said:
My motor runs but knocks bad no metal in oil at all. Must be a bent rod!!!! Anyway thanks alot.

Ya never know till it's apart but also check for broken pistons. I had a 454 start hammering bad once and all it was was a broken ring land.
 

autoaddictions

Active member
Re: engine removable questions

My motors out. 2 spun rod bearings! Pistons look good cylinders look good too. Ya think detonation caused this or oil press loss!! My oil press gauge hasent worked in years so Truth is im not sure. Guess i can add that 25$ sender to the 5 grand for a new motor.
 

autoaddictions

Active member
Re: engine removable questions

QUICK STORM said:
are you doing the 4bolt main conversion?

yea i think so Im dropping off the block to machine shop today. Im going to see how comfortable the are splaying the block for 4 bolt mains. Im not sure What to do with the crank. I sometimes think nitrating and cryo treatments ar all B.S. besides how do you even know its been done.
 

QUICK STORM

B.A.M.F. BMW Tech
Re: engine removable questions

i don't know how one would tell if its been done or not, but i hear good things about cryo/nitrated treated parts seem durable, only option above that is billet steel forged cranks which are half the price of your build. have you thought about the L35 heads?
 

EcSy#2671

Si vis pacem, para bellum
Re: engine removable questions

Just FYI, Check Everything!! I pulling my motor a month ago, thinkin it be about 5 grand. All new Block, Crank, Rods, Piston, Turbo, Rad, Oil feed lines, etc. Same thing happened to my motor, a rod bearing caused Death to all parts. 7 grand later parts and labor.

IMG_1216.jpg

pull8.jpg
 

UR50SLO

V6+2=LSXCamaro
Re: engine removable questions

Ouch.. Yours was worse than ours!!!! Eeeeks...

We had about 5hrs total pulling our engine. No trans removal or front diff. came right out no problems.

Keep us updated on the progress... Man.. how long did it get driven .. that rod got HOT!
~Scott
 

Try Me

New member
Re: engine removable questions

removing the engine is one of the times im glad i dont have ac anymore and my truck as air2air intercoolers. My brother and i have the motor on the stand in less than 2 hours without a lift! but, this is like the 5th or 6th time ive had to do it in the past 4 years so ive had practice. thank god i only went through 1 700 before going 4l80e, so im not very good at yanking trannys on my truck, no practice!

i leave headers, turbo, half of the downpipe, etc all still attached. my inner fenders have nothing attached so they come out in a minute. charge pipe, fuel lines, couple wire connections, tranny & tc bolts, then motor mounts. the first time i did this i left that one damn bolt behind the ps pump out of the bracket so i can take that bracket off without pulling the pulley (saves a TON of time there) I just buzz out the rest of the bolts and leave the alt and ps pump and bracket hang in the truck. the oil line i just unbolt from the oil filter and leave that on the motor too.

Now if it only went back in that easy! it takes me twice as long to reinstall, but im very meticulous before i fire it back up again.

anyway, good luck with your motor, just remember to support our sponsers! keep the money in the community.
 

autoaddictions

Active member
Re: engine removable questions

holly shit thats way worse than mine my truck still ran. that had to seize up on you to get that hot.
I wiped out 2 rod bearings and on crank bearing. No blueing thow.
 

SEL777

One of 101
Re: engine removable questions

ghettosled said:
I'm down to about 3 hrs flat removing a motor by myself :)

Damn, that's fast. I HOPE I never get that good at it. Great info in this thread. Maybe a move to the tech or vault section is in order. Mods?
 
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