Fuel Pump Q's

Merk

Merk

Donating Member
Looks like I'll be doing my fuel pump sooner than I thought.

I have the racetronix set-up that will be replacing the stock system thats on its last legs.

For those who have replaced a typhoon pump, what did you replace? ... O-ring? what else? I'd like to make this easier on myself...

please reply here, as it would be good for the vault.

Merk
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Make A Vaporizer
 
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Loeryder

Loeryder

New member
Fuel pump should come with the Oring for the locking ring, and a short piece of rubber hose to replace the pulsator.

GM Locking Ring: GM #25124032 - usually rusted and gets bent removing it.

1st Run the gas level as low as you can go...

Then remove the plastic shield then use bungee cords to hold the tank up, remove the bolt on tank straps and let the tank hang in the bungees.
It will be easier to get your hands above the tank to remove the metal lines.

Let us know how the Racetronix install goes.
I am looking at getting one myself.
 
L

Lynn D. Brown

New member
Merk,

I happen to have a Trans jack, which has a nice flat plate when U remove the rails. I found it really handy to jack the tank up and down.

There is not alotta slack in the lines to let it down very far. I didn't know this when I started, and assumed it was like a GN tank, which has rubber lines and will drop almost to the ground.

So, I ended up twisting the Main Fuel line - of course it had to be that one. One of the reasons was the damned strap that goes under the lines - so U should remove that 1st. I ended up getting a whole new pump and hanger assembly from ATR. So watch it !!

When U reinstall U have to get it up pretty close to get the lines attached. The only way I could get my hands in there was from the Drivers side over the frame w one hand and over the front of the Rear end w the other hand. Hard to get the threads started. Make sure U get them started a few turns by hand, so that U know it is straight, or else U can strip the threads.

There were alot of threads on this topic 2-3 months ago.
 
lSyclonel

lSyclonel

Member
when you do the lines, and if the are rusted up and dont spin off. start to spin the rubber one off. it will get really tight and bound up. but it will come undone. then when you get the sender out spray it down with water, then torch the nuts till red hot(dont for get to pull the rubber o-rings off).then twist loose.
 
Merk

Merk

Donating Member
lSyclonel said:
when you do the lines, and if the are rusted up and dont spin off. start to spin the rubber one off. it will get really tight and bound up. but it will come undone. then when you get the sender out spray it down with water, then torch the nuts till red hot(dont for get to pull the rubber o-rings off).then twist loose.
Click to expand...

uhh...thanks for that suggestion, but I think I'll be okay without heat.
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FUC TUBE
 
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B

Bear Dog

New member
Merk,
Unless you are rubber man I would suggest adding about 6" of length to the fuel lines after you drop the tank. The hardest part of the job was trying to reconnect the lines. I installed the racetronix kit on my Ty and it is very simple, only took about 5 min. to install.
Eric
 
L

Lynn D. Brown

New member
Eric - U said that U suggest adding about 6" of length to the fuel lines.

These R solid steel lines w Saginaw "O" ring type fittings. How could U add length to those ?
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Lynn D. Brown said:
Eric - U said that U suggest adding about 6" of length to the fuel lines.

These R solid steel lines w Saginaw "O" ring type fittings. How could U add length to those ?
Click to expand...

convert to braided line. make them any length you want.
 
L

Lynn D. Brown

New member
John,

Do U mean braided all the way back to the Fuel Rail ? It's one solid line all the way back. Kinda expensive - Can't believe GM did that.
 
steve-o

steve-o

Member
my .02

you can empty the tank til its almost dry if you remove the shrader valve on the fuel rail and attach some cheap fuel hose over it....tape it on if you have to. take the other end of the hose and stick in an empty gas can. then you can use a jumper wire to run the fuel pump by touching the fuel pump test lead (near fire wall) to the hot junction block on the fire wall. the pump should suck all the fuel out into the can. suck it out!

it may be a good idea to keep a shop vac handy. i saw that there was a bunch of crap around my locking ring that wanted to fall in when i went to remove the sending unit from the tank. suck it up!

when i went to re-attach the fuel lines, i made it so that the driver side strap was barely holding the tank up (to keep that side from falling) if you back your ty up onto automotive ramps, it seems to put the rear end of the truck at the ideal height (for me, i'm 5'10") to sit indian style on the passenger side with my knees propping up the tank. i can raise the tank with my knees, sandwiching my arm between it and the floor pan of the cab. this helped me get the fuel lines close enough to re-attach.....but with only one hand, it was a bitch. make sure you have your wreches within reach, unless you're a contortionist. this job just sucked!

hope it doesn't suck for you.
 
Loeryder

Loeryder

New member
From the tank feed line to the filter is less than 48".
Good luck finding a female saginaw fitting anywhere.

I ended up having AN fittings welded on the sending unit.
 
L

Lynn D. Brown

New member
Steve, U said :

sit indian style on the passenger side with my knees propping up the tank. i can raise the tank with my knees, sandwiching my arm between it and the floor pan of the cab. this helped me get the fuel lines close enough

I don't see how U could reach the Fuel line connections from the Pass. side- unless U have 4' arms ? The connections R on the drivers side and I could barely reach them on that side.
 
steve-o

steve-o

Member
Lynn D. Brown said:
I don't see how U could reach the Fuel line connections from the Pass. side- unless U have 4' arms ? The connections R on the drivers side and I could barely reach them on that side.
Click to expand...

Lynn, i'm sure you're exagerating a bit when you say i must have four foot arms. no offense taken...but really, i'm not a bullshitter. i dun it twice this way. hopefully i can put this in better perspective...

the tank itself is 2'6" or 30" wide (yep, just measured it). the sending unit, if i recall, is located about one third of the way from the driver side edge of the tank. so if you put your arm up there the way i described, you can reach the fuel line connections. its not close, but not too far for my reach. awh, hell. the tape measure is right here. so for the sake of mentioning, my arm length measures 19"...armpit to wrist.

again, i'll emphasize the tank is tilted and baaarely being held up by the upper/lower driver side tank straps at this point. all the nuts and bolts on the straps are super loose. also may i add that the upper strap can be flexed, even slightly bent downward to help bring the fuel lines closer to the tank.

i hope some of you weren't left confused....sometimes i don't put words together well. just wanna help. :D
 
Merk

Merk

Donating Member
Alrighty...

By using bits and pieces from posts within this thread, fuel pump replacement wasn't mas bad as I had projected.

I installed the Racetronix kit, which was probally the easiest part of the whole job. The kit was very complete..lacking key directions, but those can be found HERE.

I used the automotive ramp approach, like someone else suggested. Pulled the ground off the battery and started removing the plastic shield. The bolts require a 10mm socket, and some will require a universal to get to. Once that was off, the tank was exposed to where I could start removing the fuel tank supports. I sprayed "PB Blast" on the bolts, and let sit for 20 mins before removal attempt. Think of it as WD-40 on steroids.

If you can, (typhoon only) remove the rear bumper. It makes it SOOO much easier to access stuff.

The supports require an 18mm wrench for the top nuts and an 18mm socket for the bottom bolts. There are 4 of each and do take a bit of time to remove due to the amount of time/moisture exposure. Be sure to place something under the tank to support it for when you remove that last bolt. If you don't...the tank will come crashing down (on you) and if there is gas inside the tank still...you'll be a walking time bomb. I chose something that had wheels on it that I could roll around.

The tank will automatically tilt to the right, as the hoses and lines will now be supporting the whole tank. Now, start removing the lines. You'll need a 19mm wrench and a 5/8" wrench to remove the lines. Make sure you "pB blast" the fittings to make it easy. There are 2 lines, 2 hoses, a weatherpak connector and grounds that need to be disconnected also. I chose to remove the filler hose last. Be sure you still have something supporting the tank. It will dump gas all over if you dont.

Once everything is down, wheel the tank in an open space. Spray the locking ring with "PB blast" and remove.

For me, I replaced the Sender Assy [GM# 25028845], my old pulsator, the rubber had disintegrated. Very commpn for the pulsator to go bad. Take this off and throw it away. Do not replace with a new one. Instead, look for the 5/8" fuel line that racetronix supplies, and cut a piece to fit where the pulsator once was. Replace Fuel Sender Cam (locking ring) also [GM# 25124032]

Walboro supplies instructions for installation of the pump to the sender, so follow these instructions. The new GM Sender comes with similar instructions too.

Syty.net member "Invisibill" made an excellent how-to for the racetronix install, which I found useful. You can find itHERE.

Almost done, everything goes back in complete opposite. I printed out everything in this thread before, so I could refer just in case.

Make sure no gas fumes are present, I rolled the truck out of my garage just in case.

Double check yourself...make sure all grounds and harnesses are hooked up. Make sure you have fresh gas in the tank. Key on...listen for the pump. If confident, start.

Watch for Diagnostic Trouble Codes from the ECM. If codes are present, refer to manual for diagnostics. Note or check fuel pressure. Adjust if necessary.

Let idle for a bit, check for leaks. If no leaks, road test.

Everything checks out, you are complete.

:D

Merk
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YAMAHA PSR-225 SPECIFICATIONS
 
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