Rexxenexx
Active member
As some may know I couldn't start the Ty a couple weeks ago, but Dave helped get it started by disconnecting the coolant temp sensor at the front of the engine. That's pretty much how I have to start it if I want it to fire up on first try. It idles high, then steps lower and lower until it dies. After starting with the sensor off I can turn off the car, plug it back and try again and I have a better chance of starting with the sensor on. It takes like two or three LONG tries. With the sensor on it can hold idle and doesn't start w/ high revs like with it off.
Ok now you sort-of have the sitrep. Today I did some tests.
1: inj light test on all injectors = all working good.
2. voltage 12.11 off 14.30 on
3. fuel pressure on rail was 32# with the coolant sensor off 27# with coolant sensor on. Pushing the bleeder on the gauge doesn't shoot the gas out the hose the way it used to! It used to come out like someone peeing now it comes out like someone finishing peeing.
Then the pressure comes up again. So something is fishy.
4. Checked power at alt. going to the fuel pump and it was same as in #2/good.
5. Tried applying pressure +5#/-5# with a Mityvac to the FPR and the pressure didn't move at all. <-weird!
When I turn the key (ign/ engine off) the pressure builds up and the pump goes off and the pressure drops fast/instantly. WTF!! AGAIN! I had this exact problem a while back and it turned out the hose from the pump to the sending unit wasn't fuel rated (came with the 255hp Walbro Racetronix kit) and blew. I replaced it not long ago with specific high pressure in-tank hose the guy at Earls gave me, so hopefully the hose is loose not blown. I can hear the whine of the pump and it sounds good but it also sounds sloshy like it's picking up air. The FPR sounds the same. The way this is going I should pull the carpet, drop the tank, cut a hole for an access door so don't have to keep dropping the tank over and over again!
The newest things on the car since I found the blown hose a while back:
1. fuel sending unit (Doorman I think was it's make)
2. Extended the hose above tank to make it easier to drop/install (All Earls black nylon braided)
3. fuel filter (in-tank/out-tank)
4. FPR (NAPA-Delphi)
5. MSD cap/rotor/wires/coil
6. Sparkplugs (NGKs)
I'll get to it all when I have time to, but I'm posting this so hopefully it helps others; also I'd like to get some ideas for a bulletproof fuel delivery setup. I was thinking good quality hose from the FSU all the way to the front. Nylon braided short at the tank connected to an Aeroquip check valve then a good quality reusable fuel filter -or two- to steel-braided all the way to the rail. The same coming back minus the filter and check valve. Maybe Nylon braided all the way to be flexible and non-marring. For the little hose inside the tank I dunno WTF to do. Maybe have it loop once so as to not build pressure at the top? If I remember correctly it might be too short to do that or maybe I can bend the line so I can. I know I have pics somewhere of this. Tell me what you all think or what you have done.
Ok now you sort-of have the sitrep. Today I did some tests.
1: inj light test on all injectors = all working good.
2. voltage 12.11 off 14.30 on
3. fuel pressure on rail was 32# with the coolant sensor off 27# with coolant sensor on. Pushing the bleeder on the gauge doesn't shoot the gas out the hose the way it used to! It used to come out like someone peeing now it comes out like someone finishing peeing.
4. Checked power at alt. going to the fuel pump and it was same as in #2/good.
5. Tried applying pressure +5#/-5# with a Mityvac to the FPR and the pressure didn't move at all. <-weird!
When I turn the key (ign/ engine off) the pressure builds up and the pump goes off and the pressure drops fast/instantly. WTF!! AGAIN! I had this exact problem a while back and it turned out the hose from the pump to the sending unit wasn't fuel rated (came with the 255hp Walbro Racetronix kit) and blew. I replaced it not long ago with specific high pressure in-tank hose the guy at Earls gave me, so hopefully the hose is loose not blown. I can hear the whine of the pump and it sounds good but it also sounds sloshy like it's picking up air. The FPR sounds the same. The way this is going I should pull the carpet, drop the tank, cut a hole for an access door so don't have to keep dropping the tank over and over again!
The newest things on the car since I found the blown hose a while back:
1. fuel sending unit (Doorman I think was it's make)
2. Extended the hose above tank to make it easier to drop/install (All Earls black nylon braided)
3. fuel filter (in-tank/out-tank)
4. FPR (NAPA-Delphi)
5. MSD cap/rotor/wires/coil
6. Sparkplugs (NGKs)
I'll get to it all when I have time to, but I'm posting this so hopefully it helps others; also I'd like to get some ideas for a bulletproof fuel delivery setup. I was thinking good quality hose from the FSU all the way to the front. Nylon braided short at the tank connected to an Aeroquip check valve then a good quality reusable fuel filter -or two- to steel-braided all the way to the rail. The same coming back minus the filter and check valve. Maybe Nylon braided all the way to be flexible and non-marring. For the little hose inside the tank I dunno WTF to do. Maybe have it loop once so as to not build pressure at the top? If I remember correctly it might be too short to do that or maybe I can bend the line so I can. I know I have pics somewhere of this. Tell me what you all think or what you have done.
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