Hesitation, stumble, EGR?

T

TurboRob

Junior Member
My truck's been sitting for a few months and now it has picked up a sputter/stumble at light throttle cruising conditions. No trouble codes and diacom readings, at least at idle, seem normal.

The weird part is that when I set the Ultimate version 7 to 16psi street vs the usual 15psi street, the problem goes away. I'm pretty sure that the big diff between the 15psi street and the other programs is that EGR is disabled on the rest. Can anyone confirm?

If that's the case, doesn't it seem likely that the problem is a bad EGR valve or possible solenoid?

Has anyone bought an EGR from Autozone? The sytyauthority part number crosses to a Wells EGR120, so I'm just looking for confirmation.

TIA.
 
InvisiBill

InvisiBill

Active member
I just put up with the occasional Check Engine light (stock chip) and unplugged the vac line to the EGR. That alone dropped my intake temps 60*F, and it won't be dumping crud into the intake I just ran TEC through.
 
Hu Ryde

Hu Ryde

Donating Member
This may sound childish but bare with me. Use NGK UR6 plugs instead of AC's, they are less likely to go south so fast and make sure all plugs wires are pushed on all terminals tight with a snap. Running TEC is a good idea but it need's to be followed up with plugs and oil. Cap and rotor is always easy and a good idea. EGR shouldn't be the reason, but if you feel the need to et rid of it pull it and fill the 2 ports on the valve with JB weld and put it all back on, this will eliminate the CE light from coming on. Lastly make sure your FP is right for you application, check with vac line off. HTH.
 
InvisiBill

InvisiBill

Active member
Hu Ryde said:
This may sound childish but bare with me. Use NGK UR6 plugs instead of AC's, they are less likely to go south so fast and make sure all plugs wires are pushed on all terminals tight with a snap. Running TEC is a good idea but it need's to be followed up with plugs and oil. Cap and rotor is always easy and a good idea. EGR shouldn't be the reason, but if you feel the need to et rid of it pull it and fill the 2 ports on the valve with JB weld and put it all back on, this will eliminate the CE light from coming on. Lastly make sure your FP is right for you application, check with vac line off. HTH.
Click to expand...

I agree that NGKs work well. UR5s are easier to find around here too.

According to BG, the EGR test code will turn the EGR on when it's not called for, and watch for a resulting rich condition due to the extra "dead space" in the cylinders (as opposed to just making sure the valve moves or whatever). So the only way to avoid the EGR malfunction code is to edit it out of the chip. The rules for the code 32 seem to be quite complex, and quite often I don't get a code on my stock truck with the EGR vac line just pulled off and plugged with a screw. I can count on one hand the number of times it's actually gone so far as to set off the Check Engine light in the thousands of miles I've driven it with that setup, but it is still there.
 
Will_in_China

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
InvisiBill said:
Hu Ryde said:
This may sound childish but bare with me. Use NGK UR6 plugs instead of AC's, they are less likely to go south so fast and make sure all plugs wires are pushed on all terminals tight with a snap. Running TEC is a good idea but it need's to be followed up with plugs and oil. Cap and rotor is always easy and a good idea. EGR shouldn't be the reason, but if you feel the need to et rid of it pull it and fill the 2 ports on the valve with JB weld and put it all back on, this will eliminate the CE light from coming on. Lastly make sure your FP is right for you application, check with vac line off. HTH.
Click to expand...

I agree that NGKs work well. UR5s are easier to find around here too.

According to BG, the EGR test code will turn the EGR on when it's not called for, and watch for a resulting rich condition due to the extra "dead space" in the cylinders (as opposed to just making sure the valve moves or whatever). So the only way to avoid the EGR malfunction code is to edit it out of the chip. The rules for the code 32 seem to be quite complex, and quite often I don't get a code on my stock truck with the EGR vac line just pulled off and plugged with a screw. I can count on one hand the number of times it's actually gone so far as to set off the Check Engine light in the thousands of miles I've driven it with that setup, but it is still there.
Click to expand...

Mine went off so much, I had to set it back until I get chipped.
Didn't even get a chance to check the MATs...
URGH!
3 times in one day even! Had to neutral it and restart it at 80 one of those times...

-W
 
Hu Ryde

Hu Ryde

Donating Member
When I wen't back to the stock chip from the Ultimate I never had the light come on with the plate. All of the EGR was removed and unplugged. It was like this for about 4 months. All trucks are different in their own way. UR5's are the stock heat range and are also ok to use. UR6's are 1 step colder of a plug.
 
Will_in_China

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
Yeah like being fast as SHIT!!!!
WWWOoohooooo!!!

Just kidding...

Ok, long day at work, sorry.
What was this thread about again?

-Will
 
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