how can you tell if an injectors is bad??

[Guest]

To day i was going up i 70 hit 20psi. 2 bar map- hypertech chip, 50psi fuel and the thing started to stumble but would still run just acted as a lack of power. It started to stumble right then and at low rpm 2000 on down is really bad and you can feel a loss of power. the motor is shakey. really shakey at low RPM and i get a code 45 when idling the truck is hard starting i have to give it a lot of gas for it to start i thik it the fuel system stock ijn.. thanks in advance dan

 

[TurboTony]

I hate to be the one to tell you, but it sounds like you just blew up your motor.

Classic recipe for disaster
-hypertech chip
-20 psi
-wot


I'd suggest you leakdown the motor, but i'm 99% sure that you have broken several ring lands on several pistons.


Tony

 

[Guest]

Dont say that tony..... the motor has 3200 miles on it.... I didnt haer any detenation no rattling, It felt like some thing popped off. I pulled the plugs 4 were rich and both middle one's were tan / brown. a couple of the wires didnt fell like they were on all the way. I will check the leak down of the motor to be sure. what will i notice with the leak down gauge if the motor is blown?? dont have a gauge yet on my way to tool king....
thanks tony nice job @ the nats... Dan

 

[Coloty]

Plus......that motor isn't stock. Its a JWaller motor with Eagle rods......TRW pistons......big cam.............stock turbo.........etc

 

[Guest]

OK.... went out to find a leak down tester. napa sears harbor frieght all had no idea what i was talking about.. :roll: so i found one at .......
..............checker of all places.. it was 96.60..... will have it later on today....any way tony you got me worried. So I checked it with the compresion tester. i know it only checks compression and no leak but i will check the leak down later today. all cyls. were right under 120 but 2 cyls. 1=123psi 4=116 all the other 119-118 psi ... i just read that you have the same eagle rods trws what is your compression #'s if you dont mind me asking.... I will update later with leakdown info..... thanks tony
Dan

 

[Tydriver]

I'd suggest you leakdown the motor, but i'm 99% sure that you have broken several ring lands on several pistons.


Tony

Imagine that... :lol: TONY Suggesting a LEAK DOWN TEST on a motor.... ROFL :lol:

Hey come on, just cuz you do yours every nite after work doesnt give you the right.. LOL...... j/k

Seriously tho,
What he mentioned DOES do a good job of indicating internal problems inside the engine. At the very least if you haven't broken anything yet, GET THAT CHIP OUT OF THERE !

I wouldnt even put that chip on a lawn mower.

 

[Coloty]

So..........what is it exactly that is wrong with the HyperTech powermaster chip that is so bad?? Honestly, I have had it now for 8 years without issue. Truck runs good and strong. Even been to 20 PSI on my TE-44 with no knock??? I guess everyone has different experiences.

 

[Methuselah]

Your compression numbers seem really low...I would expect around 180 for a low mileage engine that was broken in properly. Did you break this engine in with mild driving and very low boost for about 500 miles or so?

Sounds like your rings never seated properly.
________
Shower sex

 

[TurboTony]

Dont say that tony..... the motor has 3200 miles on it.... I didnt haer any detenation no rattling, It felt like some thing popped off. I pulled the plugs 4 were rich and both middle one's were tan / brown. a couple of the wires didnt fell like they were on all the way. I will check the leak down of the motor to be sure. what will i notice with the leak down gauge if the motor is blown?? dont have a gauge yet on my way to tool king....

Sorry dude, didn't mean to scare ya, just seem that combo once or twice, ask the guy that I bought my sy from, yep Hyperpuke chip.

Aside from what may or may not be wrong with your sy, 20 psi of boost is quite a bit. What fuel do you run? Or do you have some sort of alky setup? When i start turning up the boost the minimum fuel I run is 114.

Also keep in mind that at 20 psi the hypertech is just sending out the same amount of fuel as it would for 14.7, not a good thing

compression #'s if you dont mind me asking.... I will update later with leakdown info.....

I've never actually done a compression test on my motor, I prefer the leakdown method, tells you quite a bit more.

I usually see around 12% on all the cylinders, It seems a little high but thats because of a large cold ring gap that was built into it. At 27 psi they tend to grow a 'lil :wink:


Hope that all helps, best of luck to ya


Tony

 

[Ian Turgeon]

no knock? maybe hyperpuk uses the kb style of going faster... NO RETARD.. drop the ecm, rip out the eprom, start it on fire, throw it as far as you possibly can and scream some canadian phrases.

the chip is absolutely crap. concider yourself ahead of the game if it didnt blow up your motor.

 

[Guest]

OK things arrent looking so good....... I did the fun job the leak down test By my self. i pulled the fly wheel cover. stuck the hose from the cyl down to the bottom of the motor stuck the end in my mouth and turned the motor over with the by the fly wheel . when I got close to the end of compreesion , i hooked up the gauge and turned the otor over to get the best reading .... all cyls were 41% and #4 was 51% I geuss this is bad for a 3500 mile engine :x I wont sleep for a fucking week now..... do you have any ideas i did here air leaking into the oil pan but some is normal... i havent put a new set off plugs in it yet and tryed to start it. I m am too fucking scared. oh i ripped out my intercooler the pump wasnt working on the intecooler hense my earlyer 220-250 mat temps at the track no knock though 110 oct. stock turbo... stock injectors Ill check for vac leaks. DO BLOWN MOTORS SHAKE AT LOW RPM..... NO SMOKE... NO OIL CONSUMPTION AT All .... please some one say everthing is OK cry wimper cry........ please be just the head gaskets
cheatham
Ps. i just bought the trucki had 300 mileson the new motor. I drove it back 1500 miles in 30 hrs and i didnt get on till i got it home.....

 

[Tydriver]

As far as the leak down is concerned.. There are a couple of ways to check to see where the problem exists.. All involve listening for air leaks/hiss.

1. Open oil filler cap with pressure applied, listen to hear if leaking into crank case, will be somewhat hard to determine, put ear next to filler tube and put hand over and release quickly. If you hear AIR here, that means its either the RINGS or a HOLE in a piston

2. Stick your ear next to the exhaust with air applied, yep at back of truck. This will be easier to hear than #1 if its leaking.. This will indicate a bent/worn exhaust valve or one thats NOT seating.

3. This one is a little tougher than #2, find some way to locate near the intake manifold/IC and open it up to listen for air leaking there.. That will indicate a bent/worn intake valve or one thats NOT seating.

4. This test has a 50/50 chance of working (sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't) Open the RAD CAP with pressure applied (cold engine) and watch for bubbles.. IF you see bubbles its a good indication that its the head gaskets...


Also, FWIW, we do this kind of leak check ALL the time in the aviation world (piston powered airplanes) and its almost a required item. All I can say is, make absolutely sure that its at TDC with BOTH valves closed, even the slightest will cause erroneous readings.

Lastly, if you can get the truck started and you are at the point of NO RETURN start the truck, let it warm up to idle and get everything GOOD and warm, its quite possible that some of the readings will reduce a fair amount.

Oooops, lastly again (sorry forgot this) try squirting a little OIL on top of the piston you find the leaks on.. This will temporarily seal a WORN set of rings (unless they are missing)... Use a HEAVY OIL and dont over do it (dont wanna hydro-lock the motor).

Have I forgotten anything ???? Anyone ???? Feel free to chime in (like I can stop ya :wink: )

 

[Eluding]

I can say is, make absolutely sure that its at TDC with BOTH valves closed, even the slightest will cause erroneous readings.

This is absolutely CRITICAL. For what its worth, my stock engine compression tested between 115 and 120 psi on all cylinders. Leakdown was right about 10% on all cylinders also.
REMEMBER, Dan we are are 6,000 ft above sea-level. We have 25% less air pressure up here. Compression test numbers will be 25% lower than the sea-level guys.
Before you rip the motor out try another leak down test. Make sure the valves are closed. Good Luck, Clark

 

[Guest]

Ok I pm'd jwalller :he said that the motor should take that no prob, trw pistions egale rods speed pro molly rings arp hardware he though i blew a vaccum line off... thanks eluding for those #'s here in denver. the motor was totally cold when i did the leak down test so iM SURE WHEN IT WARMS UP THE READINGS WILL BE A BIT DIFFERENT hopfully.... my 100,000 mile typhoon motor compression was 130-140.... here in co but it has higher compresion than the trw piston i heard... I 'll put some plugs in it and check all the hoses and up date the BB .... THANKS FOR ALL OF ThE REPLYS AND INFO.........
Dan cheatham

 

[SY2932]

Do yourself a favor and "loose" that Hypercrap chip! When I got my truck, I drove it for over a year before I got on the list, BB and started hanging out with other owners. Didn't know squat about the truck (and cars in general). Learned that I had a severe overboost problem. Couldn't figure out what the problem was until one day on a whim, I pulled my ECM. Tape was cut and guess what was inside... Good thing I drive like a grandma for the most part cause my truck was a blown motor waiting to happen.

Mike Campbell

 

[Guest]

Update -
I put new plugs in it. still ran alittle shakey at idle didnt drive it though. so i unpluged the # 4 injector wire where i got the most leak down from and the tan/ brown plug from. I didnt change the idle at all.! It was if I didnt do anything .... shouldnt the idle have changed? I thought if you unpluged and injector it wouldnt fuel?? any body??I didnt have the time to check the others had to work....
There are ways to check the injectors... Dose any body know of any practical ones and not expensive.... I did boost the engine quite a bit before.107 duty cycle i have recorded a few time with DM on 110 oct so it could be possible its an injector.... right?
any ideas.. thanks chaetham

 

[Guest]

Ok I replaced the # 4 injector.... shifted in to gear and the motor would shake a bit not horrable but its there.... I have a data master file on it if anybody is interested .. this file is with out the turbo connected, no intercooler in place....
as I rev the motor there is 3 deg of Knock retard but no Knock counts. Anybody know what controlls the retard besides knock????
what the fuck gives :evil: !!!!
Ill replace the chip and see if that helps Maybe it just took a shit... I fucking doubt it though...... What the fuck do i try now????????????????????????????????????????????????? come some one has to have some ideas...
I did the compreesion check, leakdown motor was cold, swaped injectors etc..... DO i have to pulll the fucking heads next??? thanks for all the help......

 

[Guest]

I pulled the hyper-fucked and replaced it with the stock memcal still same thing....starts fine, runs but put my foot on the break and gas to build load and the thing still stumbles and shimmys :
again this happend suddenly while traveling up hill under boost 20 psi and 52 psi static 3/4 throttle.... about to have a fucking cow :evil: both the ty and the sy are in malfuctioning or missing the transmiton or some freaken thing is wrong

 

[MR_MNZTR_SY]

is your egr stuck open? that can cause your problem....to a point, not having driven the truck i cant say for sure, but an open egr can make that happen, especially under load and wide open throttle, and i think even idle too, when it is supposed to be off.

 

[kwick6]

Did you check your timing(tan wire disconnected), TDC on #1 cyl?

Later,

Scott