Syclone #1721
I LOVE 4UM SUPERSTARS
Well my oil pressure gauge has not worked since I bought my Sy. It has been wrapped all the way around. Now recently I installed new intake gaskets so while I had the opportunity to access the oil pressure switch easily, I switched it out. Now some people say that the gauged just needs to be pinned and while that doesnt hurt, I strongly believe from past experiences that these gauges wrap when the switch is going bad because the gauge acts erratic when first started. Nonethelss, I still had to reset the gauge and install a stop. This is a common problem so I figured Id share the procedure with my fellow SyTyers in hopes that it will help others. Id rate this at a 5 out of 10 on the skill level. Now on the patience level, this is gonna be a 100 out of 10. Read on and you will see why.....
This is what has been haunting me since I bought the Sy. Im sure some of you have seen or are looking at this right now.
Heres the tools you will need: flat and phillips screwdrivers, small flat screwdriver, needle nose pliers, a small hook tool, a T10 torx bit and a 10mm socket with extension.
Start by removing the two phillips screws under the fog light switch.
Next remove the two phillips screws under the headlight switch.
Now pull the headlight switch assembly down and out. Disconnect the two connectors and put the assembly aside.
Now disconnect the fog light harness socket and remove it from the dash. Using the flat screwdriver makes it easier to unhook the clip.
Now under the dash, you will find six phillips screws. Three on each side of the steering column. Remove these.
Under the heater controls, you will find two more phillips screws. Remove them.
Now just like the headlight switch, pull the heater control assembly down and away. Be careful here. You have to be a little agrresive with this but not too much are you will break something. So far this has been easy. Well, get ready for the pain.
At the top of the heater control assembly, there is a connector that goes to the fan speed switch. Use a flat head screwdriver to lift the lock and push the connector off the switch. Be patient.
Next, unhook the two light bulbs that light up the controls. Twist and pull out. Be careful. These break easy.
Ok, now on the right side of the controls, there is the connector that goes to the vent selector switch. Again, using the flat screwdriver, pry open the lock and push the connector back. This is a pain in the a$$. Be patient here too.
Now at the bottom, you will see a series of colored vacuum lines with a bulk socket on the end. There are two round clips that hold this bulk socket on. These must be removed. Use the needle nose pliers to gently work these clips off. There is one on each side of the socket. These take alot of patience but def save some for the next two steps. You may need beer too. :rotf:
Ok, the cable that controls the temperature is held on with another one of those round clips like from the previous step. Its on the left side. Remove this clip.
If you havent smashed your dash apart yet, then continue to this step. On the right side, you will see a red clip that hold the cable housing in place. Use a flat screwdriver to pull the lock clip down while pushing the red clip out towards the left side. This is a pain in the a$$. Just be patient. It will happen.
SUCCESS!!! Finally all your peristance has payed off. As much as you may want to, dont smash this with a hammer. Put it aside and continue. The worst is behind you now. Well until you go to put this back in. :rotf:
In back of the headlight assembly and heater control assembly there are philips head screws. One per side. Remove them.
Pull the dash bezel away from the rest of the dash and put aside.
At the bottom of the gauge cluster there are two philips screws. One on each side. Remove them.
At the top of the gauge cluster, there are two 10mm nuts. One on each side. Remove them.
Grab the cluster and gently pull toward you. You may have to used a flat screwdriver to pry away the cluster from the two top studs.
Now lay the cluster on its face and remove the torx head screws sourronding the cluster with the T10 torx bit. You can now seperate the clear cover from the cluster.
Kind of off the topic but if you have the dash out, you might as well replace the dash bulbs. Nobody should have to go through those heater controls twice. :rotf: Ok back to the dash.
Heres the donor nail. I actually got it out of a carpet tack strip I found when I was taking up my rugs. A little thin but looks good. Just cut it down to about 1/4 to 3/8 inch leaving the head on and spray paint it flat black. Instant needle stopper :tup:
I used a little brush on Krazy Glue to put in in place. You only need a tiny bit.
Simply take you finger and push the needle around counter clockwise. SImple as that.
Now try to stick it in place where it looks like the other upper pins. There you have it. :tup:
Now to reassemble, just reverse the steps. When installing the heater controls, using the hook helps to pull some of the plugs back on to the terminals. More patiance.
WOW....45lbs at idle. I had no idea... :rotf: ....and there you have it. I hope this helps others in doing this project. Its definitely a project that is done by an owner only. Can you imagine trying to expalin this to a mechanic and expect them to take the care to do it. That is why I did this. To make it easier for the do it yourselfer. Feel free to ask questions.
Joey
This is what has been haunting me since I bought the Sy. Im sure some of you have seen or are looking at this right now.
Heres the tools you will need: flat and phillips screwdrivers, small flat screwdriver, needle nose pliers, a small hook tool, a T10 torx bit and a 10mm socket with extension.
Start by removing the two phillips screws under the fog light switch.
Next remove the two phillips screws under the headlight switch.
Now pull the headlight switch assembly down and out. Disconnect the two connectors and put the assembly aside.
Now disconnect the fog light harness socket and remove it from the dash. Using the flat screwdriver makes it easier to unhook the clip.
Now under the dash, you will find six phillips screws. Three on each side of the steering column. Remove these.
Under the heater controls, you will find two more phillips screws. Remove them.
Now just like the headlight switch, pull the heater control assembly down and away. Be careful here. You have to be a little agrresive with this but not too much are you will break something. So far this has been easy. Well, get ready for the pain.
At the top of the heater control assembly, there is a connector that goes to the fan speed switch. Use a flat head screwdriver to lift the lock and push the connector off the switch. Be patient.
Next, unhook the two light bulbs that light up the controls. Twist and pull out. Be careful. These break easy.
Ok, now on the right side of the controls, there is the connector that goes to the vent selector switch. Again, using the flat screwdriver, pry open the lock and push the connector back. This is a pain in the a$$. Be patient here too.
Now at the bottom, you will see a series of colored vacuum lines with a bulk socket on the end. There are two round clips that hold this bulk socket on. These must be removed. Use the needle nose pliers to gently work these clips off. There is one on each side of the socket. These take alot of patience but def save some for the next two steps. You may need beer too. :rotf:
Ok, the cable that controls the temperature is held on with another one of those round clips like from the previous step. Its on the left side. Remove this clip.
If you havent smashed your dash apart yet, then continue to this step. On the right side, you will see a red clip that hold the cable housing in place. Use a flat screwdriver to pull the lock clip down while pushing the red clip out towards the left side. This is a pain in the a$$. Just be patient. It will happen.
SUCCESS!!! Finally all your peristance has payed off. As much as you may want to, dont smash this with a hammer. Put it aside and continue. The worst is behind you now. Well until you go to put this back in. :rotf:
In back of the headlight assembly and heater control assembly there are philips head screws. One per side. Remove them.
Pull the dash bezel away from the rest of the dash and put aside.
At the bottom of the gauge cluster there are two philips screws. One on each side. Remove them.
At the top of the gauge cluster, there are two 10mm nuts. One on each side. Remove them.
Grab the cluster and gently pull toward you. You may have to used a flat screwdriver to pry away the cluster from the two top studs.
Now lay the cluster on its face and remove the torx head screws sourronding the cluster with the T10 torx bit. You can now seperate the clear cover from the cluster.
Kind of off the topic but if you have the dash out, you might as well replace the dash bulbs. Nobody should have to go through those heater controls twice. :rotf: Ok back to the dash.
Heres the donor nail. I actually got it out of a carpet tack strip I found when I was taking up my rugs. A little thin but looks good. Just cut it down to about 1/4 to 3/8 inch leaving the head on and spray paint it flat black. Instant needle stopper :tup:
I used a little brush on Krazy Glue to put in in place. You only need a tiny bit.
Simply take you finger and push the needle around counter clockwise. SImple as that.
Now try to stick it in place where it looks like the other upper pins. There you have it. :tup:
Now to reassemble, just reverse the steps. When installing the heater controls, using the hook helps to pull some of the plugs back on to the terminals. More patiance.
WOW....45lbs at idle. I had no idea... :rotf: ....and there you have it. I hope this helps others in doing this project. Its definitely a project that is done by an owner only. Can you imagine trying to expalin this to a mechanic and expect them to take the care to do it. That is why I did this. To make it easier for the do it yourselfer. Feel free to ask questions.
Joey
