RSpengler
Ghetto Fab Specialist.
I hate to sound like a broken record about my problem and add yet another useless post that no-one replies to, but Im at my wits end (and my wallets).
Brand NEW:
IAC
ICM
Injectors (50#)
MAP (3 bar)
prom (Ultimate)
plugs
NEW 2 months ago, before my rebuild, with only 3000 miles, maybe less on them:
Conrad Cap & rotor, ATR wires, MSD GM blaster coil
Tested:
valve lash
Timing set to 0* with the Tan/black wire disconnected
Fuel Pressure tried from 30-50psi to no avail / fuel pump provides plenty of pressure
TPS reads .50 fully closed / 4.23 wot
Took my exhaust / Cat off to see if it was clogged, it wasnt.
Problem:
Truck refuses to idle. If I give it part throttle, like just a 1/4" on the gas pedal, it will idle, only its not really idling, because my foot is on the gas to keep it from stalling.
Revs slow from under 1000 rpms, backfires (alot more now, that the exhaust is off), runs rough. (blown ECM maybe?, I dont know anybody with a syty that lives in Coloado that I could swap with to see, but my speedo did tach out all the way at 120 when I FIRST turned my car on after putting the engine in it. I took my gauges out and flipped them over to get it to come back down.)
My Anti-Lock light is staring at me constantly, nothing, not even the 2 second, 1 second, 2 second, reset trick works. It wont flash any codes either, and my brakes are stiff as hell, like there is no vaccume assist at all.
I dont know what to do other than start throwing money at it and replacing new parts with new parts. I guess tomorrow, I will go buy another cap / rotor and the cheapest wires I can find. On the inside of the rotor, the terminals do have some meltage, but I assume its from fiddling with the timing back and forth a million times.
My next idea is to fix the symptoms, just so I can drive it to Florida and escape Colorado. It involves getting an adjustable Neihoff TPS, and using the Idle set screw, push the throttle blades open and then adjust the TPS back down to 0.50. I know, everyone says, dont mess with it, the idle should be set in the chip, but I dont have the time, nor the money to burn a dozen chips till one works...
Is there anything in a distributer besides the ICM that could go bad? I noticed that the timing light likes to cut out randomly, even with a nice solid connection to the plug wire.
Suggestions, please?
Thanks,
Rob
Brand NEW:
IAC
ICM
Injectors (50#)
MAP (3 bar)
prom (Ultimate)
plugs
NEW 2 months ago, before my rebuild, with only 3000 miles, maybe less on them:
Conrad Cap & rotor, ATR wires, MSD GM blaster coil
Tested:
valve lash
Timing set to 0* with the Tan/black wire disconnected
Fuel Pressure tried from 30-50psi to no avail / fuel pump provides plenty of pressure
TPS reads .50 fully closed / 4.23 wot
Took my exhaust / Cat off to see if it was clogged, it wasnt.
Problem:
Truck refuses to idle. If I give it part throttle, like just a 1/4" on the gas pedal, it will idle, only its not really idling, because my foot is on the gas to keep it from stalling.
Revs slow from under 1000 rpms, backfires (alot more now, that the exhaust is off), runs rough. (blown ECM maybe?, I dont know anybody with a syty that lives in Coloado that I could swap with to see, but my speedo did tach out all the way at 120 when I FIRST turned my car on after putting the engine in it. I took my gauges out and flipped them over to get it to come back down.)
My Anti-Lock light is staring at me constantly, nothing, not even the 2 second, 1 second, 2 second, reset trick works. It wont flash any codes either, and my brakes are stiff as hell, like there is no vaccume assist at all.
I dont know what to do other than start throwing money at it and replacing new parts with new parts. I guess tomorrow, I will go buy another cap / rotor and the cheapest wires I can find. On the inside of the rotor, the terminals do have some meltage, but I assume its from fiddling with the timing back and forth a million times.
My next idea is to fix the symptoms, just so I can drive it to Florida and escape Colorado. It involves getting an adjustable Neihoff TPS, and using the Idle set screw, push the throttle blades open and then adjust the TPS back down to 0.50. I know, everyone says, dont mess with it, the idle should be set in the chip, but I dont have the time, nor the money to burn a dozen chips till one works...
Is there anything in a distributer besides the ICM that could go bad? I noticed that the timing light likes to cut out randomly, even with a nice solid connection to the plug wire.
Suggestions, please?
Thanks,
Rob