Intercooler systems

[Syclonewillie]

If you were to stay liquid to air for the intercooler set-up. What would be the ideal set-up. Also the system would have to stay up front and not include ice chests.What are your thoughts on this? Would it be cheaper to run air to air Albertan it was late by the time I realized it it was this morning so I fixed it.



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: syclonewillie on 2002-01-24 15:36 ]</font>

 

[kwick6]

The colder you can get that intake charge the more boost you can run. Its up to you how much you want to spend on how you go about doing it. I put in a better pump and an aux chiller, and it runs strong. Next thing I want to do is fans on the lower cche.

I would suggest you use what you have and try and make improvements to it. Have you taken out the metal lines?, upgraded your pump?

What are your goals, are you building a 10 sec screamer or are you just trying to lower MAT's?

Scott

 

[ALBERTAN]

I still believe the liquid to air :wink: setup can work well on a more or less stock truck. Heck Tony has run 11.85 with it and I am sure others have gone even faster. Modifications would include removing the stock hard lines and replacing them with rubber lines, adding an aux. cooler behind the grill, swapping in a jabsco pump and making sure the stock line next to the pump isn't severely kinked as many are. Other possibilites include the ATR/Conley IC upgrade (though its quite expensive), fabricating a scoop for the stock IC, replacing the stock heat exchanger for a DeQuick unit, using water wetter, and probably some other tidbits that escape me right now.

I don't think its cheaper to run air to air since most of the kits are $1000 and up that I am aware of. But I don't think there is any question that unless you go to some elaborate ice chest setup the air to airs are much more efficient. What are your performance goals long term?

 

[manitoufs]

Dean -
I would take issue with using the Dequick. It is a twin pass system with fewer coils and cooling fins than stock. The surface area may be greater because of it's thickness. But I did DM runs before and after the install and saw no measurable improvement. I have posted to this BB and to the list looking for other users of the Dequick.

To this date, no one has offered any documentation disputing my observations. The request still stands.

 

[Syclonewillie]

DO NOT FLAME!!!!! I have one of the hard lines replaced. I have what looks like the atr aux. intercooler. I am going to rerun the hoses through the fender and heat wrap it. Would it be a waste of money to use the goodyear hose for this application. I was thinking of the spall fans over the lower intercooler. I may upgrade it. What is the best replacement for the lower cche. Oh and I still have what looks like the factory intercooler pump. I am replacing at the same time as the fuel pump from ron. I am looking at low 12's or high 11's. So it is not like I want to get into the 10 second range or anything.

 

[myclone]

Uh... willie???..........


Have you got the eng removed/rebuilt/reinstalled yet?? IMO a stock water to air is just fine for a sy with a broken crank. I PROMISE that the IAT temps will never be higher than ambient temp....

Did you pick up the cheap sy motor that I told you about??

 

[Syclonewillie]

Myclone just doing some research for when I put the thing back together. It could help someone else to know the info. About the motor I am short on funds at the moment and can not get it at the moment. Wish I could it would be better then what I am going through.Anyway why you busting my balls. I am just wondering what the best setup is. Oh by the way Myclone what sparkplugs do I need again. :razz: :razz:

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Syclonewillie on 2002-01-24 00:52 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: syclonewillie on 2002-01-24 01:08 ]</font>

 

[kwick6]

I believe the ATR setup comes with a larger pump. If you don't have the larger one, then you can upgrade to the jabsco and it will fit in the stock location.

Don't need to worry about buying a lower cche yet, get what you have working well.

Get the other metal line out and concentrate on putting in the new pump and routing the rubber hoses without kinks. Napa sells molded 180* U-bend shaped rubber heater hose so you can make the turn behind the IC without kinking it.

The main idea is to get a good flow, so that you can see the movement of water when you take the cap off. The flow is going to depend on how well you route the hose.

I have seen some very nice work done with the liquid to air setup. It helps if you know someone that has done this kind of work, and can show you what works well.

Later,
Scott

 

[ALBERTAN]

Yeah George I hear what you are saying. I had a line on a new in the box "used" DeQuick L2A and passed on it after doing some research and finding that it is quite vulnerable in its mounted position. I will say that Tony's work looks like art but if it doesn't perform then there is really no point. I think if you commit to a liquid to air setup then you should have it in the back of your mind to do it on a budget. Because if you are willing to spend the money from the outset you should probably go air to air.

Willie, ditch the stock pump and go for a Jabsco. Leave the stock CCHE...maybe add a fan. Finish removing the hard lines and add an aux heat exchanger. Then log some runs and see how its doing. That's how I would do it FWIW.

 

[JustBeachin]

I too bought a DeQuick Lower heat exchanger. I really haven't seen that much difference. Mine is the same height as stock because I didn't like the mounting, lack of upper shroud, inability to mount my aluminum plate, and blade of death (and used the stock mounting "thing" and replaced the DeQuick cche with the stocker). I still have a stock one waiting in the wings just in case.

Nice pics George, looks like you went off-roading....I'm glad I had the mounting tabs cut off and mounted it +- exactly where the stock one was.

If you don't wanna go with the expense of A2A then I would mount an auxilary like was already suggested, and put a fan on the lower cche (I have two of those in a box waiting to be installed). Get the Jabsco....flows really well. And ice it down at the track, use watet wetter, no kinks, etc.

Manitoufs, we're going out to CaliforniaSpeedway on Feb 16th, care to join us?



_________________
Doug Rodriguez
Redondo Beach, CA
93 Blk/Blk Ty #529 13.3 @ 101mph w/ poor 1.98 60' time

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: JustBeachin on 2002-01-24 01:19 ]</font>

 

[manitoufs]

I will be in Milwaukee / Chicago that weekend. I do want to get to the track soon. I'm in Orlando right now. Looking to be back in LA this weekend. I hope to do a tune on the Ty (UR6IX, pull the metal caps off the Holleys, cap, rotor & compression check).

Keep posting about Fontana. I will try meet up sometime.

 

[myclone]

Yeah, Im busting your balls some Willie cause ya got lots work to do before doing upgrades.. On the other hand their isnt anything wrong with doing research on future mods..

I got your mail.. I'll help ya do the eng but Im gonna hafta get your truck to my shop. If you were closer than 3hrs Id come down to help. I got another sy Im working on now so it will be a little while before I get any time.

You should really snag that eng I told you about ASAP as at most it needs minimal work to be ready to drop in. Id buy it but I got enough engines laying around in the way.

I'll do some research on what plugs you need BTW.. :grin: :razz:

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: myclone on 2002-01-24 12:23 ]</font>

 

[Syclonewillie]

The person who has the motor said he was in no hurry. I started pulling the intercooler system out of my truck today. The aux. might as well be junked it looks like the piece in front was pushed in to it some. The intake side of the turbo is coated with oil. What caused that? I understand about the distance thing. Is that eric's old truck hope it works out good. I will e-mail you a couple questions.

 

[myclone]

Willie,

One thing that worries me about your truck is the trans... Since its been discovered via this board you actually got a correct replacement eng then the crank shouldnt have broke.. What worries me is the welding that was done to the trans case. If the bell housing was not properly located when it was welded back to the case then the misalignment could be putting stress on the crank. Once you get the eng out Id like to take a look at the trans case before you drop another eng in.

If you decide to do the eng yourself just gimme a ring when you get it out as Id like to look at the trans bellhousing to see if anything is flakey. Hate to see you scrap another moter and the cash cause of other probs (besides using the wrong plugs :razz: )

 

[ivanko]

The lower exchanger upgrade alone is not enough to lower MATs. The total package is required to get the cooler air into the intake.

No matter what is done to the rest of the intercooler system, you still have the small upper IC and there isn't a lot of suface area there to cool the hot air as it passes over the fins.

My system is nearly ideal for an air to water system. All that remains is the upgrade to a larger more effiecient upper IC which Spearco will be building to my specifications.

Adam Auerbach

Sy #2419