Is my engine seized up!

[Will]

It hasn't been a very good day. Here's the story. I drove my Ty for about 15 minutes this afternoon to pick up a few things. When I got home I parked it in the driveway so I could wash it. Before doing so I had to move my wife's car out of the way. So when I went to move the Ty to the front of the driveway, it seemed like the starter was working harder than normal to start the engine, but it did start. After washing the Ty I was ready to take it for a drive. Here's where the problems start. When I went to crank it, all I got was a single "click" that sounded like the starter was engaging but the engine wouldn't turning. (on a side note, last month I replaced my starter with the 98' Tahoe starter, and replaced the battery cable, and the silinoid cable). I tried a few more times to see if it would crank but I got nothing more. Next I crawled under the truck and listened while my wife cranked the key. Same thing. It sounded like the starter was trying to crank but the engine wasn't allowing it to. I decided to give it some time and see if maybe it cooled down more it might crank. That didn't work either, although now the single "click" I was getting when I turn the key has become continuous "clicking" while the key is turned over. I did get under the truck to see if there were any burnt or cut wires, I wasn'tt able to find anything that looked bad.
Another thing, now when I turn the key over my interior lights go off and my radar detector resets as if it's lost power. This makes me think there is a short or something.
I don't know what else to check and I wanted to get your opinions and thoughts before I go through the PITA of swapping out the starter again.
Could it be a crap starter? Seized motor? I didn't notice any rise in temp or lack of oil pressure while I was driving it. Maybe a water got into something while I washed it :-? I can't figure it out :evil:
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Will

 

[JSM]

Sounds to me like starter is trying, but motor not giving in.

Put a socket and rachet on end of crank pulley and try to turn it clockwise. It should turn slightly before compression starts to build up.

If you remove spark plugs it should turn over easier.

I do hope starter is the problem though, as engine failure won't be good.

 

[ed hess]

sounds like the battery is kinda low. or the infamous purple wire that you didnt replace yet.

ed

Hey what purple wire?

 

[leroy]

Sounds like the battery or the battery connections.

Jim

 

[DanenGraham]

I have the same problem (it will click, then every thing goes dead, no power) But all mine is the ground on the bat. is bad and i have to open the hood, and bend the wire a little and the power zaps back on, and what do you know the truck cranks over.

 

[Boosted]

I agree with all the above. Multiple clicks sounds like dead battery, or bad connections. JUmp it?

 

[Jimmy]

It is possible that you hydrostatically locked it up,if the diaphram in the FPR broke.Start pulling plugs,and if gas pours out you'll know.Also check your dipstick and see if it smells like gas.

 

[Will]

Thanks for all the help guys. I started with Jeff's advice and was able to put some turns on the crankshaft with a rachet. That made me feel much better knowing the engine was seized up. Then I checked my battery and connections. All connections were sound, but the battery was in fact low. I was able to get it jumped and I then went and bought a new battery. The truck is running great and I am somewhat surprised at how much better it is running now with the new battery. It seems to run smoother and it is getting up to full boost quicker at WOT. I'm glad this was a simple fix.
Thanks again to everyone here that posted their advice. The lesson I learned today: Try not to get tunnel vision while trouble shooting, it could be the simple fix you're overlooking that is the real problem!
Will

 

[ed hess]

listen you arent done fixing this yet.

the real question that needs to be answered was why was it low?

loose or corroded connection?

battery dying normal 3-5 year death?

something amiss in charging system?

Incorrectly thinking its ok to use the domelight as a nitelite in the garage.

ed

 

[Will]

Good point Ed.

The connections are all good, and the wires were new last month. The battery was from 2000 so that's almost 4 years or so. I'd say age was the cause of failure. There haven't been any signs of charging failures or difficulties. I'll watch the alternator closely for a while. I suppose it's been working overtime lately to charge that dying battery, wouldn't be too surprised to see that go here before too long. I guess the proactive thing would be to just go ahead and change alternator now before it leaves me on the side of the road in BFE
Maybe that will be next weekends project.
Thanks again for your help!
Will

 

[ed hess]

ok so while your at go get that big 200 amp chrome unit from powermaster.

ed

 

[SY2932]

If you have a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) you can check your charging system yourself. With the truck not running, your battery should have around 12.5 volts on it. Have someone start the truck and rev it up to around 2K. The voltage should now be around 14 to 15 volts. Then have them turn on the head lights. The voltage should drop momentarily and then come right back up if the charging system is working properly. On the other hand if you don't have the tools/time to do it yourself, Autozone and the like will test batteries and alternators for free. HTH's

 

[ghettosled]

do what mike said and go get a multi meter. Would have saved you alot of headache. That was an easy diagnosis! Its usually pretty hard to seize up a motor, just by washing what surrounds it. :lol:

 

[Deanzsyclone]

Wow, this sure is alot of post for a dead battery. I guess you can never be to safe.

 

[Will]

As it turns out, the battery may not have been the only cause of failure after all! I had more of the clicking problem after I installed the new battery. I did some more checking and found the good old purple wire had a small cut in the insulation too! Now I have replace it with a 10ga wire and everything is working fine. I've now replaced both battery cables, the purple wire, and the wire for the silinoid. I also put flex tubing around all of the wires to avoid any future rubbing, why they weren't protected is a mystery to me :evil:
Hopefully that is the end of the starting troubles!
As far as the battery goes, I'm glad I replaced it, it was 4 years old and when it was tested by Advance A.P. it wasn't taking a charge. It did probably contribute to the trouble though.
I guess I really can't complain, I've been driving the truck for 5 months now and this is the first problem I've had with it.
Ghettosled: Yes, I know it isn't possible to seize it by just washing!