L35 Rocker Arm Issue

Couger1968

Dazed and Confused
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

There are poly locks for factory steel rockers. They might be different from roller ones. I know ARP and crane or comp offered another option just can't remember which one. I used theirs because they were cheaper. They worked fine. I had to lengthen the stud a little to get a good contact with the threads.
 

Aeroking

e.i.
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

Also, look at the stud boss surface on the heads. The ARP studs are radiused under the bolt head, and require a chamfered/countersunk edge on the stud boss. Otherwise you have to use ARP radiused washers under the studs.
 

Couger1968

Dazed and Confused
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

Also, look at the stud boss surface on the heads. The ARP studs are radiused under the bolt head, and require a chamfered/countersunk edge on the stud boss. Otherwise you have to use ARP radiused washers under the studs.

Good point, I did use ARP washers that had a chamfer, but I don't remember the number. You can get them different thickness also.
 

S10 Guy

Member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

So essentially, spend $60-80 bucks on new L35 rockers/balls/nuts so i can use the stock L35 studs (or spend less and pull them from a junk yard) or, spend around $130 on the arp studs and poly locks so i can use my LB4 stock arms/balls and potentially upgrade down the road?
 

Couger1968

Dazed and Confused
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

A lot of L35 motors suffered from morning sickness meaning they rattled when cold. They tried different lifters and such to correct it, but it really came down to the non-adjustable rockers. I didn't want to deal with it. Stock rockers are fine for me and my mild build. If down the line you throw a huge cam in, your rockers are just part of the problem.
 

Couger1968

Dazed and Confused
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

Copied from another discussion Matching the right cam with the right lifter and adjusting the valves correctly is important in order to avoid noisy lifters at startup, a problem that's commonly known as "morning sickness." Prior to '92, the 262 had the traditional adjustable rockers that had been used on all of the small block Chevys for years. The cam had a 1.380"/1.335" base circle and used a short-travel lifter. Turning the rocker nut one turn gave the lifter a .040" preload and put the plunger in the middle of its travel.

In 1992, when Tonawanda switched to a "net lash," non-adjustable valve train, the base circle was reduced to 1.260" on all of the cams and a lifter with more travel was used across the board, apparently to provide more latitude for manufacturing tolerances with the "net lash" rockers. (Note: The Romulus plant did not switch to "net lash" until '95). Unfortunately, this combination can cause noise problems in the field because it takes longer for the lifter to refill at startup when it has bled down overnight, unless the preload is set at .080".

This problem can be cured by turning the rocker nut two turns with the adjustable rockers, but that can't be done with the "net lash" setup, and it's contrary to everything everybody knows about setting the valves on a Chevy, too. The best approach requires the replacement of the "net lash" studs with a set of special conversion studs that have metric threads on the bottom, along with 3/8" threads on the top, and using them along with the short lifters that are preloaded one turn. Pioneer offers this special replacement stud.

If you prefer to rebuild the engines as they came and use the longer lifters with the adjustable rockers, increasing the preload to two turns will help avoid "morning sickness." Carefully controlling the stem heights and clearances with the "net lash" rockers will help ensure that you have enough preload to avoid noisy lifters most of the time.

Just for the record, there's one extra benefit to switching to the short lifters and the adjustable valvetrain on everything; you can disregard the base circle issues and consolidate more of the cams.
 

Couger1968

Dazed and Confused
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

You may have to change cam and lifters as well, according to the article. I don't know. It was from a well known source.
 

S10 Guy

Member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

You may have to change cam and lifters as well, according to the article. I don't know. It was from a well known source.

If it doesnt work out, i have no problem going with the ARP studs, and poly locks to use my stock lb4 rockers. just trying to build on a budget is all.
 

liquidswords88

I pity da fool
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

If it doesnt work out, i have no problem going with the ARP studs, and poly locks to use my stock lb4 rockers. just trying to build on a budget is all.


Good luck with the budget. I don't think I'm alone in saying these trucks are far from budget friendly. Sometimes it's cheaper to spend a medium amount of money once than a small amount of money five times.
 
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

RE: Post #26 by Couger1968:

I too have found that same information from another post elsewhere, or other Forum, and will be following that cautionary advice when I re-assemble my L35 "W" CPI 4.3L after a set of head gaskets replacement and new CPI intake install.

I was thinking of where I would find this information as I was reading this thread and glad to see Couger1968 inserted the tech advice before me.

Good luck with your L35 head swap and upgrades.
 

S10 Guy

Member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

RE: Post #26 by Couger1968:

I too have found that same information from another post elsewhere, or other Forum, and will be following that cautionary advice when I re-assemble my L35 "W" CPI 4.3L after a set of head gaskets replacement and new CPI intake install.

I was thinking of where I would find this information as I was reading this thread and glad to see Couger1968 inserted the tech advice before me.

Good luck with your L35 head swap and upgrades.

thank you! that was a great chunk of information. i just want to get it back on the road and hear that turbo spool!!!
 

WyoSyclone

Active member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

If you do a search for member "MOJO", he posted a lot of good information regarding proper parts/valvetrain geometry when switching to L35's.
 

gt71ss

Member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

search is your friend.There is a ton of proven info here about this common swap done for years.
 

S10 Guy

Member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

sorry to beat a dead horse with this but i have some new interesting information. i ended up getting rocker arms, balls/nuts, and pushrods from a sonoma GT (L35 everything and, FYI stock lb4, and L35 pushrods are identical) installed everything and set the lash. started right up and set timing. idled very smooth for about 20ish minutes until the rocker arm nuts started backing out because they are not locking/jam nuts, so they didnt hold the lash. the threads on the stock screw in studs is 15/16 -24. if i just get flange style jam nuts and re-set the lash, will that be ok?
 

Couger1968

Dazed and Confused
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

sorry to beat a dead horse with this but i have some new interesting information. i ended up getting rocker arms, balls/nuts, and pushrods from a sonoma GT (L35 everything and, FYI stock lb4, and L35 pushrods are identical) installed everything and set the lash. started right up and set timing. idled very smooth for about 20ish minutes until the rocker arm nuts started backing out because they are not locking/jam nuts, so they didnt hold the lash. the threads on the stock screw in studs is 15/16 -24. if i just get flange style jam nuts and re-set the lash, will that be ok?

If they are like my Cleveland you tighten the nut down tight to a certain torque. They are not able to set like the stock trucks. I have never had one come loose on my Cleveland.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

Here's a good article on setting/checking hyd lifter pre-load:

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf-tech-tips/hydro-lift.pdf

Prolly should do this regardless. I used a dial indicator to check lifter plunger travel. Figured out how far to turn the adjuster to get the travel I was looking for and did the remainder the same. Comp cam, Crane gold rockers 1.5/1, plain ol' stock lifters, no issues. No lifter noise even when it sits for a few weeks.
 
Top