Low compression and rebuild questions

[LIVEEZ]

I did a compression test 2 nights ago and I found what I was looking for. #3 cylinder has 50 psi and the rest are 150 psi. I have had blow by issues in the past, smoke from my breather filter, pcv valves popping out, a rough idle, and a hesitation.
So last night I started to pull my engine out. I have made a list of my mods and the parts I have accumulated in the past year. walboro fuel pump, fuel pressure gauge, adj FP reg., boost gauge, 3 bar chip and map sensor, alky injection, tune up with NGK ur6IX plugs, new MSD distributor, taylor spiro pro wires, silicone vacuum hose, ported L-35 heads w 2.02 1.60 valves (still at the machine shop), comp cams roller rockers, ATR large upper IC, atr aux cche, Griffin cche, jabsco pump, heater hose,
I know I have to get pistons .030" over, rings, rods, bearings, rebuild gasket kit, poly motor mounts. I will gasket match the intake (upper and lower),
I do not know what to do with the crank, any suggestions?
I would like to keep the stock exhaust manifolds with a minor polish job, and coat them. Am I wasting my time on these? I do not like headers that much.
I was planning on upgrading my 3 bar chip with the 50 psi chip, so I could keep my stock computer. I was also planning on the matching cam for it. I am not sure of the part number though. I would also get a torque converter from hartman but I do not know what stall. what would be the difference between the 2800 stall and the 3000 stall? I will keep my stock turbo on there while breaking in the new motor. After that I would probably get a PTE turbo, but I am not sure on which one. The PT-52 says 600 HP in the ad.

How does my build look so far? My goals are around 600 HP, 11's or low 12's in the 1/4 mile. Daily driver if needed, pump gas, and very reliable. I have a garage with a lift ,engine stand, and cherry picker. I have a great local machine shop with a flow bench. So all I have to do is finish pulling it, measure the crank, and start ordering parts.

Any suggestions on parts or anything about this will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[Christian Dionne]

How fast you wanna go?

With a 2800 convertor you can spool up a PTE63E, but with a 50 lb injector you're not really covered. So maybe your PTE44-54 would be a better choice. A 54 is supposedly a 62mm compressor, so that would probably be pretty good topend with your L35s.

Unless your on a limited budget, I'd get JE pistons, as they might allow a little more revs. The stock crank is fine, you might have to turn it .010/.010, no big deal.

Unless your looking for 10's, just stay with the stock manifolds. The performance value per dollar is not worth it. If you do get ATRs, get them coated with some high temp Black stuff, you'll be amazed in the difference.

Get the PTE kit with the catalytic convertor, the drone without will drive you nuts. Then get the electric cutout, and you'll never have to get under the truck to uncap it.

 

[Falco]

I guess he said high 11's, low 12's. Is this a Sy or Ty? Anyway. With a built engine I'd get at least a PTE-54. Producing 600HP will definately put you into the 11's, but to get this from a 52, you should run macho boost, if it's even possible. With a 54 it's a bit easier. With a 63 it's possible with low boost, I belive. Mark's Sy almost in the 10's with a 63 and L35's.

Later,

 

[E-Rue]

a 52 will definately run 11s on low boost.

the time in my signature was run with a PT52

e

 

[Tooky]

Do you have any information on what caused the motor to fail?

 

[LIVEEZ]

I bought the truck a while ago and did all of the safety mods and all of the 3 bar chip mods. I have datamaster and I was trying to track down knock problems. I got a new balancer and did the timing, played with the fuel pressure, got a new boost control solenoid and adjusted the wastegate, ditched the MSD coil and went back to stock, new vacuum hoses and a full tune up. It still knocked on T1-15. So I tried GM top engine clean (I have used this in the past at dealerships). I must have sucked in too much too fast because I hydrolocked the engine. I let it sit for a while and it finally cranked over. That is about the time I started getting smoke from breather filter. I may have damaged a ring or worse, I do not know. I wanted to rebuild the engine anyway to get rid of the marginal stock parts. I just did not want to have to rebuild it.

 

[myclone]

I must have sucked in too much too fast because I hydrolocked the engine. I let it sit for a while and it finally cranked over. That is about the time I started getting smoke from breather filter. I may have damaged a ring or worse, I do not know. I wanted to rebuild the engine anyway to get rid of the marginal stock parts. I just did not want to have to rebuild it.

If you plan on using the connecting rods that are in there now you would be very wise to have them checked for straightness. Hydrolocking likes to bend rods.

 

[LIVEEZ]

"Unless your on a limited budget, I'd get JE pistons, as they might allow a little more revs."

I would like lightweight, strong, and hopefully quiet pistons. I do not want to find out later that they "clack" in the cold mornings because they have to warm up. I may run 20 psi. a few times to see what it will do, but i would probably keep it at 15psi to 17psi on the street.

"Is this a Sy or Ty?" Syclone #2054

"How fast you wanna go?" good question. I would sacrefice some performance for strength and reliability. I have never been to the track so I do not know.

Thanks in advance. Keep it coming

 

[Sy769]

I must have sucked in too much too fast because I hydrolocked the engine. I let it sit for a while and it finally cranked over. That is about the time I started getting smoke from breather filter. I may have damaged a ring or worse, I do not know. I wanted to rebuild the engine anyway to get rid of the marginal stock parts. I just did not want to have to rebuild it.

If you plan on using the connecting rods that are in there now you would be very wise to have them checked for straightness. Hydrolocking likes to bend rods.

If possible throw them in the trashcan. Buy the Eagles at $350-400. By the time you get them checked for cracks,straightness and resized and add new bolts you have quite a bit of cash in them and still have weak stock rods.