LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
- Thread starter super-gt
- Start date
2500avalanche
Well-known member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
I like the bed. You cut the floor out, are you using a flat floor? I am interested because my bed has great outer panels, but the underside of the floor is rusty!
Thanks!
I like the bed. You cut the floor out, are you using a flat floor? I am interested because my bed has great outer panels, but the underside of the floor is rusty!
Thanks!
PPI Typhoon
DIY Madman
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
How do you like those fiberglass pieces??
Looks really good.
How do you like those fiberglass pieces??
Looks really good.
JuStBlAzIN
Active member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
YEa i am interested in this too. I need to get some cladding for my ty. Easy the fiberglass finish easy to work with? hows the fitments?
PPI Typhoon said:
YEa i am interested in this too. I need to get some cladding for my ty. Easy the fiberglass finish easy to work with? hows the fitments?
super-gt
New member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Gonna be pop riveting an aluminum sheet metal floor back in. Will be 3 separate sections, the front, the back, and possibly a removeable floor piece in between the fenders.
As for the fiberglass pieces, in all honesty, I wasn't very happy with them. After test fitting them on the truck instead of the factory plastic pieces, I noticed the gaps were quite abit larger between the bumpers and fiberglass corner pieces then they were previously. I had the body shop add more fiberglass to the pieces so that gaps weren't so huge. Should look pretty good now...just required a fair amount of extra work...
Oh BTW....truck is black again
2500avalanche said:
Gonna be pop riveting an aluminum sheet metal floor back in. Will be 3 separate sections, the front, the back, and possibly a removeable floor piece in between the fenders.
As for the fiberglass pieces, in all honesty, I wasn't very happy with them. After test fitting them on the truck instead of the factory plastic pieces, I noticed the gaps were quite abit larger between the bumpers and fiberglass corner pieces then they were previously. I had the body shop add more fiberglass to the pieces so that gaps weren't so huge. Should look pretty good now...just required a fair amount of extra work...
Oh BTW....truck is black again
2500avalanche
Well-known member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Thanks! Are those inner bed sides sheet metal?
Thanks! Are those inner bed sides sheet metal?
super-gt
New member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
The bed its self is total stock sheet metal. The only change to it is that we removed the stock inner fenders and replaced them with sheet metal inner fenders made by suicide doors. Figured it would be easier than making fenders from scratch. Plus they make them in a wide range of sizes.
The bed its self is total stock sheet metal. The only change to it is that we removed the stock inner fenders and replaced them with sheet metal inner fenders made by suicide doors. Figured it would be easier than making fenders from scratch. Plus they make them in a wide range of sizes.
super-gt
New member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Hey guys, little update for ya.
Truck has paint! Most of the cladding is still down at the shop but the truck for the most part is back home again.
So far, the front, rear, and side windows have been put back in. Currently working on re-assembling the doors.
Here is acouple shots of how the truck looks as of now.
A shot fo the rear brakes/wheels
And of course the all important rear tire shot.
More to come in a week or two!
Hey guys, little update for ya.
Truck has paint! Most of the cladding is still down at the shop but the truck for the most part is back home again.
So far, the front, rear, and side windows have been put back in. Currently working on re-assembling the doors.
Here is acouple shots of how the truck looks as of now.
A shot fo the rear brakes/wheels
And of course the all important rear tire shot.
More to come in a week or two!
WyoSyclone
Active member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Looks awesome! :tup: The red rearend will have to grow on me, but beautiful truck overall.... can't wait to see it with the cladding on
Looks awesome! :tup: The red rearend will have to grow on me, but beautiful truck overall.... can't wait to see it with the cladding on
Syborg Twin Turbo
Syborg Twin Turbo
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Looks awesome - so what size tire & rim are you running on this truck ?
Looks awesome - so what size tire & rim are you running on this truck ?
92TYPHOON937
Active member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
that thing looks sweet
that thing looks sweet
super-gt
New member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Thanks all, really appreciate it!
As for wheel and tire specs...
Front: 18x7 iforged astra( Front whel offset is 0mm) with 225/40R18 Nitto 555's
Rear: 18x12 iforged astra( Rear wheel ofset is -63mm/4 inch backspace) with 335/30R18 Nitto 555R's
Thanks all, really appreciate it!
As for wheel and tire specs...
Front: 18x7 iforged astra( Front whel offset is 0mm) with 225/40R18 Nitto 555's
Rear: 18x12 iforged astra( Rear wheel ofset is -63mm/4 inch backspace) with 335/30R18 Nitto 555R's
super-gt
New member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Most definately man! Couldn't let the truck go out like that.:tup:
Thanks again for that rear view mirror! Puttin it to good use as you can see!
Truck looks AWESOME
Most definately man! Couldn't let the truck go out like that.:tup:
Thanks again for that rear view mirror! Puttin it to good use as you can see!
super-gt
New member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Been awhile, so I thought I'd give you guys some update pics...
Been workin on the floor alot lately and it is comming together pretty nicely. I'm really pleased with it so far.
We started with aluminum sheet metal, then cut and fit it and I had it brushed to give it a nice clean look. So far we have the front and rear pieces all pop-riveted in. We still have to make the ceneter section which will probably be one of the last things done.
The gas tank is also all bolted down and most of the fuel system is complete aside from lacking a return and vent line which should be done next week.
I tried to get a shot of the fuel set up under the floor but it is so busy ll I could manage a shot of was the fuel filter...lol
Heres an updated shot of the rear...
Should have my new battery box tomorrow which means theres a very good chance of starting the truck up next week. I'll keep you all posted:tup:
Been awhile, so I thought I'd give you guys some update pics...
Been workin on the floor alot lately and it is comming together pretty nicely. I'm really pleased with it so far.
We started with aluminum sheet metal, then cut and fit it and I had it brushed to give it a nice clean look. So far we have the front and rear pieces all pop-riveted in. We still have to make the ceneter section which will probably be one of the last things done.
The gas tank is also all bolted down and most of the fuel system is complete aside from lacking a return and vent line which should be done next week.
I tried to get a shot of the fuel set up under the floor but it is so busy ll I could manage a shot of was the fuel filter...lol
Heres an updated shot of the rear...
Should have my new battery box tomorrow which means theres a very good chance of starting the truck up next week. I'll keep you all posted:tup:
super-gt
New member
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Hey guys, hope everyone is having a great Thanksgiving so far.
Since I've got some free time, I just thought I'd do an update to let you all know whats up with the truck as of lately.
We actually turned the key on it 2 Sundays ago and Damn does it sound good!
But we ran into a problem with the trans. It seems that we didn't get the converter seated onto the pump right So the truck wouldn't move. As a result the truck is down at my dad's work on a lift right now with the trans pulled (Big thanks to my dad and my good friend Wade).
So....I sent the converter back to Yank to have it checked out just to make sure it is ok. I also decided to do alittle trans work while it was out. Well one thing led to another and I ordered a few things...
The List
"Front pump"
Seal retainer
Late design seal
13-vane rotor with vanes, slide, rotor guide & pin assembly
Trans-Go steel rings & priming spring (over 5,500 rpm)
New replacement stator support
with .500 boost valve
"Clutches, Steels And Pressure Plates"
4 Borg-Warner reverse/input clutches .078
4 Reverse/input "low drag" Turbulator steels .078
1 Reverse waved steel (eliminates the belleville spring that tears up the inside of the drum)
5 Borg-Warner forward clutches .070
5 Forward steels .090
2 Borg-Warner overrun clutches .078
2 Overrun steels .091
5 Borg-Warner low/reverse clutches .087
5 Low/reverse "low drag" Turbulator steels .068
9 Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches .065
5 3-4 steels Kolene .060
3 3-4 Steels Kolene .076
1 3-4 pressure plate top .128"
1 3-4 pressure plate bottom .220"
1 3-4 snap ring .062"
Borg Warner dual cage 29 element design
"Other" (these are additional parts that come in this kit)
Sealed Power Beast sunshell
Borg-Warner low/reverse roller assembly (late design)
Vamac 3 lip rear seal (prelubed)
Transtech paper & rubber (gasket) kit
Transmission filter (OEM)
Bushings (latest updates, including Teflon front pump & extension)
Thrust washer kit
Sealing ring kit
HD Bearing kit (Timken)
Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 2-4 band
Trans-Go Performance Shift kit w/accumulation for nice part throttle shifts
New steel molded rubber piston for 3-4
New aluminum 2nd, 4th & forward accumulator pistons
New oem 4th accumulator pin
New 2nd & forward "hardened" (RC52) accumulator pins
HD steel sleeve, overrun piston, & steel molded rubber forward piston for the input drum
The trans should be able to hold up to about 675HP now so what I'm planning on doing in the near future hopefully won't grenade the trans too fast.lol
So were still chuggin along...I'm gonna try my best to get some video up ASAP of the thing running but it will be alittle while.
-Taylor
Hey guys, hope everyone is having a great Thanksgiving so far.
Since I've got some free time, I just thought I'd do an update to let you all know whats up with the truck as of lately.
We actually turned the key on it 2 Sundays ago and Damn does it sound good!
But we ran into a problem with the trans. It seems that we didn't get the converter seated onto the pump right
So the truck wouldn't move. As a result the truck is down at my dad's work on a lift right now with the trans pulled (Big thanks to my dad and my good friend Wade).So....I sent the converter back to Yank to have it checked out just to make sure it is ok. I also decided to do alittle trans work while it was out. Well one thing led to another and I ordered a few things...
The List
"Front pump"
Seal retainer
Late design seal
13-vane rotor with vanes, slide, rotor guide & pin assembly
Trans-Go steel rings & priming spring (over 5,500 rpm)
New replacement stator support
with .500 boost valve
"Clutches, Steels And Pressure Plates"
4 Borg-Warner reverse/input clutches .078
4 Reverse/input "low drag" Turbulator steels .078
1 Reverse waved steel (eliminates the belleville spring that tears up the inside of the drum)
5 Borg-Warner forward clutches .070
5 Forward steels .090
2 Borg-Warner overrun clutches .078
2 Overrun steels .091
5 Borg-Warner low/reverse clutches .087
5 Low/reverse "low drag" Turbulator steels .068
9 Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches .065
5 3-4 steels Kolene .060
3 3-4 Steels Kolene .076
1 3-4 pressure plate top .128"
1 3-4 pressure plate bottom .220"
1 3-4 snap ring .062"
Borg Warner dual cage 29 element design
"Other" (these are additional parts that come in this kit)
Sealed Power Beast sunshell
Borg-Warner low/reverse roller assembly (late design)
Vamac 3 lip rear seal (prelubed)
Transtech paper & rubber (gasket) kit
Transmission filter (OEM)
Bushings (latest updates, including Teflon front pump & extension)
Thrust washer kit
Sealing ring kit
HD Bearing kit (Timken)
Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 2-4 band
Trans-Go Performance Shift kit w/accumulation for nice part throttle shifts
New steel molded rubber piston for 3-4
New aluminum 2nd, 4th & forward accumulator pistons
New oem 4th accumulator pin
New 2nd & forward "hardened" (RC52) accumulator pins
HD steel sleeve, overrun piston, & steel molded rubber forward piston for the input drum
The trans should be able to hold up to about 675HP now so what I'm planning on doing in the near future hopefully won't grenade the trans too fast.lol
So were still chuggin along...I'm gonna try my best to get some video up ASAP of the thing running but it will be alittle while.
-Taylor
Last edited:
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Better than stock yes. 675 HP. No.
You will still tear up the overrun hub.
Input drum should be reinforced and cryo'd. Sonnax sells the kit now.
Before you use the kit, air check the input drum and make sure it doesn't leak air between the input shaft and where it presses into the aluminum drum. Usually shows up REALLY bad when you air check 3-4 piston and the overrun.
Corvette 2nd servo(looks like you've got it).
Pinless accumulator pistons for 2nd and block the 4th accumulator and mod the input drum. Your kit probably does away with the plastic accumulator piston.
Do the 4l65/4l70 reaction carrier shaft thicker wall and uses a bearing. Very obvious difference when comparing them.
Check your input drum. Try to get a 4L60e drum that is thicker in the 3-4 piston area. It will be different because it will be smooth instead of having 5 indentations.
DON'T put 9 clutches in the 3-4 clutch pack. Do 7 and use the thickest steels possible to get it to .050" clearance and use the hi rev spring kit from transgo. It will have thicker springs for the overrun clutch return assembly and heavier rated springs for the 3-4 return spring assembly. This will help get that piston down quicker on releases.
There is a WIDE bushing for the rear sun gear. The reaction carrier shaft rides on this bushing. It gives it more surface area for support and helps prevent breaking the rear planetary and the reaction tube(shaft).
Cryo the input drum, the entire sprag, reaction tube, sun gears, both planetaries, the sun gear shell, and the the two ring gears, and the output shaft.
A little higher stall converter helps(I'm sure you went higher stall) because it will kinda mush the shifts a little bit and Yank will not want you locking it up at WOT. He will tell you that can but it won't last near as long (with 675 HP). You get a huge load on the input shaft when locking it up at WOT.
It's still a 700 gear train but this will go a long way into helping it live longer.
NO SUPER SERVO for 2nd gear. Whatever ANYONE tells you, do NOT use a super servo on that 2nd gear piston. 4th gear, perfectly fine, but NOT 2nd gear. It hits too hard, can damage the band and screws up 3rd gear timing and causes a nasty 3-2 CLUNK.
I don't think you mentioned that but if you think, "I might as well", don't do it.
Mike Campbell put up a really nice article on seating the torque converter.
Check the pump pocket as you may have completely ruined the pump and need to replace it as well. A 13 vane pump is not as good as the 10 vane pump. 13 vane was made for the noise complaints on the 60e setup. If yours was not making any noticeable noise, I wouldn't use it. Has nothing to do with fluid flow. Your better off getting an entire new pump that has everything matched and put a .500" boost valve in it(you've got it). Most rebuilt pumps won't come with the valve lineups in them. So if your pump is damaged, you'll have to transfer everything over and get a .500" valve in there. Make sure you tell them it's a 60e and tell them the year. Several different types of pumps.
Just thought I'd put this up since you listed a bunch of parts.
Hopefully with it being 2wd, it'll spin them instead of hooking up. Makes a big difference.
Hope your having a VERY blessed Thanksgiving!!!
Better than stock yes. 675 HP. No.
You will still tear up the overrun hub.
Input drum should be reinforced and cryo'd. Sonnax sells the kit now.
Before you use the kit, air check the input drum and make sure it doesn't leak air between the input shaft and where it presses into the aluminum drum. Usually shows up REALLY bad when you air check 3-4 piston and the overrun.
Corvette 2nd servo(looks like you've got it).
Pinless accumulator pistons for 2nd and block the 4th accumulator and mod the input drum. Your kit probably does away with the plastic accumulator piston.
Do the 4l65/4l70 reaction carrier shaft thicker wall and uses a bearing. Very obvious difference when comparing them.
Check your input drum. Try to get a 4L60e drum that is thicker in the 3-4 piston area. It will be different because it will be smooth instead of having 5 indentations.
DON'T put 9 clutches in the 3-4 clutch pack. Do 7 and use the thickest steels possible to get it to .050" clearance and use the hi rev spring kit from transgo. It will have thicker springs for the overrun clutch return assembly and heavier rated springs for the 3-4 return spring assembly. This will help get that piston down quicker on releases.
There is a WIDE bushing for the rear sun gear. The reaction carrier shaft rides on this bushing. It gives it more surface area for support and helps prevent breaking the rear planetary and the reaction tube(shaft).
Cryo the input drum, the entire sprag, reaction tube, sun gears, both planetaries, the sun gear shell, and the the two ring gears, and the output shaft.
A little higher stall converter helps(I'm sure you went higher stall) because it will kinda mush the shifts a little bit and Yank will not want you locking it up at WOT. He will tell you that can but it won't last near as long (with 675 HP). You get a huge load on the input shaft when locking it up at WOT.
It's still a 700 gear train but this will go a long way into helping it live longer.
NO SUPER SERVO for 2nd gear. Whatever ANYONE tells you, do NOT use a super servo on that 2nd gear piston. 4th gear, perfectly fine, but NOT 2nd gear. It hits too hard, can damage the band and screws up 3rd gear timing and causes a nasty 3-2 CLUNK.
I don't think you mentioned that but if you think, "I might as well", don't do it.
Mike Campbell put up a really nice article on seating the torque converter.
Check the pump pocket as you may have completely ruined the pump and need to replace it as well. A 13 vane pump is not as good as the 10 vane pump. 13 vane was made for the noise complaints on the 60e setup. If yours was not making any noticeable noise, I wouldn't use it. Has nothing to do with fluid flow. Your better off getting an entire new pump that has everything matched and put a .500" boost valve in it(you've got it). Most rebuilt pumps won't come with the valve lineups in them. So if your pump is damaged, you'll have to transfer everything over and get a .500" valve in there. Make sure you tell them it's a 60e and tell them the year. Several different types of pumps.
Just thought I'd put this up since you listed a bunch of parts.
Hopefully with it being 2wd, it'll spin them instead of hooking up. Makes a big difference.
Hope your having a VERY blessed Thanksgiving!!!
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: LS1-Sonoma GT build (updated with pics)
Here's the reinforcement kit:
http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/77733-01K-IN.pdf
Get the one that comes with the aluminum piston already done.
The instructions say that you cannot use a bonded steel forward piston with this setup.
That is not true. I've done many of these and it works fine. Air check it when it's done and get clearances correct and you'll be fine.
Everyone is gonna roll their eyes but in the end, you might have been better off to go 80e since you've already got a 60e, just got the conversion harness and reflashed the PCM for 80e use.
With you being 2WD, it'd been a no brainer.
You'll have a lot of money in th 60e by the time you get all the goodies and it'll still be a 60e. Good luck though. If you do the work yourself, it shouldn't be too bad.
Here's the reinforcement kit:
http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/77733-01K-IN.pdf
Get the one that comes with the aluminum piston already done.
The instructions say that you cannot use a bonded steel forward piston with this setup.
That is not true. I've done many of these and it works fine. Air check it when it's done and get clearances correct and you'll be fine.
Everyone is gonna roll their eyes but in the end, you might have been better off to go 80e since you've already got a 60e, just got the conversion harness and reflashed the PCM for 80e use.
With you being 2WD, it'd been a no brainer.
You'll have a lot of money in th 60e by the time you get all the goodies and it'll still be a 60e. Good luck though. If you do the work yourself, it shouldn't be too bad.