Mechanical Boost Controller?

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AZTY

New member
So I just got my 3 inch exhaust consisting of a flowmaster muffler, ATR cat and my 3 inch electronic cutout :D . I know I have read before about when you change your exhaust that you will need to change to a boost controller. So I bought a simple, cheap mechanical one on Ebay and I went over to Brandon's house (MADPSI) so he could help with the install. We hooked up the two vacuum hoses each way and adjusted the valve and it doesn't seem to make a difference which way its hooked up, 13psi. :-? On one of the hose connectors there is a small hole, it looks like it is on there on purpose. So I guess my question is, is anyone running a mechanical boost controller and does cutting off vac or opening it up supposed to cutt off boost?
 
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kwick6

Donating Member
Re: Mechanical Boost Controller?

AZTY said:
So I just got my 3 inch exhaust consisting of a flowmaster muffler, ATR cat and my 3 inch electronic cutout :D . I know I have read before about when you change your exhaust that you will need to change to a boost controller. So I bought a simple, cheap mechanical one on Ebay and I went over to Brandon's house (MADPSI) so he could help with the install. We hooked up the two vacuum hoses each way and adjusted the valve and it doesn't seem to make a difference which way its hooked up, 13psi. :-? On one of the hose connectors there is a small hole, it looks like it is on there on purpose. So I guess my question is, is anyone running a mechanical boost controller and does cutting off vac or opening it up supposed to cutt off boost?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't use anything other than this one ..... www.boostvalve.com

Throw that one you bought away, or you could be throwing your motor away as smeagol stated.
 
M

MadPSI

Member
Damn... Greenie so quick to flame... Let me throw in some other information that will clear up any confusion.

To be on the safe side, we used his BOV as a wastegate on the compressor side and set the max boost at 13 PSI... Confident that boost could in no way get any higher than that, we started experimenting with the bleeder valve simply to see if we could control it between 0-13. It didn't matter which way we hooked the thing up, it did nothing.

Giving up on the bleeder valve, we just hooked a vacuum line directly from wastegate to compressor fitting, adjusted the wastegate to 15-16 PSI, and returned the BOV to it's normal working configuration.

Don't worry, we only spiked the truck to 24 PSI once... :D
 
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smeagol

Active member
MadPSI said:
Damn... Greenie so quick to flame... Let me throw in some other information that will clear up any confusion.

To be on the safe side, we used his BOV as a wastegate on the compressor side and set the max boost at 13 PSI... Confident that boost could in no way get any higher than that, we started experimenting with the bleeder valve simply to see if we could control it between 0-13. It didn't matter which way we hooked the thing up, it did nothing.

Giving up on the bleeder valve, we just hooked a vacuum line directly from wastegate to compressor fitting, adjusted the wastegate to 15-16 PSI, and returned the BOV to it's normal working configuration.

Don't worry, we only spiked the truck to 24 PSI once... :D
Click to expand...

I'm not flaming, just giving him the lowdown. I think we've explored this option about 100 times. I have yet to see any simple bleeder valve work 100% well on any stock wastegate/turbo Syty. Think you have? I betcha $50 I can overboost that setup, as long as you don't use any caveats, such as " yea just don't let it downshift"...or "don't stab the throttle and it's fine.."..." i have to readjust it in the cold..." .... " it controls boost perfectly as long as you don't turn it up past 16psi..". Folks, that is NOT BOOST CONTROL. The bleeders will work fairly well if you have a decent turbo/wastegate setup. Stock is not decent, I'm assuming that is what you are experimenting with?

Trying to control boost between 8 and 13psi - What is the base boost setup at? That is the lowest boost you'll get. Typically base boost is ~12psi. Getting boost control right between 12 and 13psi is like trying to stand closer to the ground.

To verify how the bleeder is working, put the bleeder hooked up to a compressed air source, try both sides of the bleeder, twist the knob in all directions, establish some trend. No pressure to the wastegate, ie, bleeder valve CLOSED, blocking airflow, will cause the wastegate not to open, or HIGH boost. Full air pressure to the wastegate, or bleeder valve fully open, will cause the wastegate to open at its spring pressure (base boost) and will give you LOW boost (the lowest the wastegate will let you run).

Please disregard any pissy commentary, work is crappy today.
 
S

Sy769

Donating Member
I use the Grainger type like Don posted the link to.
It works very well with a stock cat and much better than stock control.

It will however spike 1-2 psi on a downshift. For a stock truck this would cause issues as the stock 2 bar would not fuel for it above ~15psi.

I use a 3 bar cal and am also spraying methanol (or windshield washer fluid,rubbing alcohol, or Jack Daniels) so my truck gives a shit-less about a 1-2 psi spike.

With that said if I removed the cat or used a dump I would have serious issues.....

Ask Kurt Russel about what a sy does on a downshift with a completely open exhaust and stock wastegate. Race gas saved the day :eek: it would spike to about 25 to 28 psi ...... :eek:
 
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Fred Aldrich

New member
I'm running a high flow cat and the ATR exhaust system. With the stock boost controller, I got "Overboost" codes every time I stood on it. I installed a BoostValve in parallel with my stock solenoid to trim off the boost spikes. The BoostValve is set on the bench to 16psi. Works like a champ.
 
Gnocide

Gnocide

turbo game burt reynolds
got mine from dawesdevices.com. works great and solid. check for vac leaks. that will bleed off your adjusted boost.
 
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