Re: my future engine
100in6 said:
if you're convinced to keep the 52 turbo use the biggest injectors that are reasonable. personally morgan, i wouldn't use 50's but would go with something bigger. the reason is i know from experience that if you make a few changes in the right direction you will work them hard. it's just as easy to install 75's as it is 50's and the cost is almost the same. depending on how fast you want to go and how much power you want to make, i'll repeat to you what i've always preached. torque, torque, and more torque. we drive bricks that are heavy. horsepower don't mean squat until ya get em moving. torque gets em moving. it's also easier on the motor than making a bunch of high rpm horsepower. did i ever give you my definition of the difference between torque and horsepower. torque = how hard ya hit the wall. horsepower = how much it hurts when you hit it :wink:
your 52 will take you into the 11's. you can also have it upgraded and after it done bolt it back on the exact way it came off. only difference will be more boost. you'll be glad you have bigger enlargers if you ever do rebuild the turbo (and you will
)
I actually havent been thinking about 50's, however I have given some thought to those 57's that came out that dont require the ECM modification, but again its just a thought.
until recently i never thought it was really possible to run at the engines potential with a chip. nolan and the introduction of the pocket romulator has changed my mind. i think it takes time and you have to have someone who knows what they're doin help you get it goin, and it's not as fast, but i do now agree that if you're willing to work at it and are willing to get a little help the romulator will let you do it. just realize that you gotta make adjustments at almost every track and every atmosphere you run at, just like i do, and the stock computer is a little slower to do. (unless your initials are NN and you're a freakin genius at it) so go with onones chip and make your own with the romulator. if you could get someone who has a similar build to give you a basic tune it will speed up the process. also, a dyno would be nice to get you in the ball park.
Yeah, I dropped Nolan a few e-mails the other week about a truck here in NJ that has a wild setup and what needed to be done to get a chip for it. He wrote back with some suggestions and and what I needed to have here in order to do it. I wrote back, but I guess he's been busy cause I havent gotten any e-mails since, so got me :-?
get yourself a dependable boost controler. boost changes with more than just turning it up and down. things like running rich or lean change boost as does different fuel.
I was probably gonna go with the Ramchargers unit. Its decently priced and ive heard many positive comments both on here and from local Buick owners I know who run it.
stock blocks are OK as long as you get them well prepped by a shop that know how to do it and don't try to wring out every horsepower you can. leave a little pad.
Stock blocks better be ok, cause thats all Im ever gonna have
i would prefer you use the vortec heads, but the L35 do bolt right on and are a big improvement. personally... i would look for a set of stock vortecs that are new and complete and get the heads filled and drilled and the intake worked and just clean em up a little yourself with a dremmel. they'll flow about the same as worked L35's, but have a much better combustion chamber and drastically improve detonation. (i've done both on the same motor and know from personal experience) the L35 are cheaper though because of the machining work.
Vortecs are just not in the equation right now. I just cant afford to blow that much on a set of heads plus the machine work right now
stock cranks will work. get it checked and treated by someone who knows what they are doing. it will limit you more on boost, but i know for a fact that mccoy always runs a stock reworked crank and i don't think he has ever broken one.
I planned on having the crank Cryo-treated, and I did find a place that does it about 45 mins from my house, but as far as them knowing what they are doing, ya got me. "Performance" shops dont really exist around me, so its going to be hard to get anything done unless I do it myself, which is what I will be doing for most of it other than honing and boring.
the eagle rods are OK since you already have em. you do know they need a little work to fit?
For $365 they better be fuckin ok! Thats all I read on this board is Eagle rods this, Eagle rods that. Im not going out and building a 9 second motor Les, all this piece of crap has to do is let me break into 11's and im DONE! Period, end of story. 11.9X is all I want it to run, then this truck is finished.
Yes, I have heard the "big ends" need to be checked for round or something like that, whoopie, more money out the window :roll:
if you don't already have the trw pistons, i would like to see you get something else. the trw's are OK and theres nothing wrong with them, but J&E's for instance are a little lighter and a little better balanced. they are a little more expensive though.
yeah, like twice as expensive, no can do.
buy the best rings, bearings, fasteners and all that stuff you can afford. comp cams are good. with your turbo size, and stock block stay with something that makes a lot of low end torque. the whole motor will thank you for it. I'll give you my cam specs, but it's probably too big for what you want. i hear that nolan has come up with a nice grind and if you contact either him or tony i bet they will help you get one or share with you. roller rockers are nice, just don't get something to high ratio because they are hard on the valve train if you go too high. if you use studs instead of bolts the heads are a lot harder to get on and off. if you decide to use studs, get the ones that can be taken out with the heads on with an allen wrench. i forget who makes em but i'm sure some will remember.
:lol:, LES! did you actually read the items I listed in my post? Both the cam and the rockers WITH the ratio im useing are both listed.
As far as best bearing, Its been a while since ive rebuilt a motor, I no longer remember whats good or bad. Ill do some more searching around here I guess.
are you building a stock motor? guess that answers the question about how good of an oil pump to put in doesn't it. :-?
Not totally
Mike answered my question below.
i'm sending you all the details on my motor, maybe you will see some stuff you like. if you decide not to build one i'll sell ya mine for about 17 :lol: you know i'll be glad to help you in any way i can. mines put away for the winter right now but when spring comes i'll let you drive it a little if you want to feel what the torque is like.
fingers are tired and can't type any more. hope some of this helped
les
I got your e-mail, Ill check it out in the morning, Just got home and im beat.
thanks for the novel and the help, Ill have to see what else I can find around here.
4C FED said:
Call them with the ring groove measurements for whatever piston your going to use. You can even order direct from them.
OK, Ill check that out. thanks.
sytyguy said:
1 - Use the Melling M55A oil pump. It's a high volume/standard pressure pump. Listed for early Camaros IIRC.
4 - Oil pump stud. Also, keep in mind that if you go with head studs, you won't be able to easily pull the heads with the engine in the truck. This may not be an issue for you, but it's something to consider if you ever plan to go to Vortecs or have a head gasket pop.
HTHs and contact me if you have any questions concerning parts or PNs.
Gotcha on the pump, thats the answer I was looking for.
Ill go with bolts instead of studs then as I may someday move up to Vortecs.
I might drop you an e-mail or something this week about a gasket part number you gave me a few months back. Im not in any rush here. Thanks.
Pittman said:
With all the money your spending you could also splurge and get a new crank What the hell, you cant take it with you.
I dont really think im spending that much, but if you want send me $2000 ill gladly buy a steel crank :lol: Cause I certianly dont see the point in buying another GM and having that one treated as long as the one I have mics out fine.
Thanks for the comments guys, much appreciated.
