Oil pan options?

I attempted to search but it appears some older threads were lost at one point.

I'd like to get my hands on a 'new' oil pan for an engine build project. I don't expect to find a SYTY pan, but was very surprised to find that the steel 4.3 4X4 pans are also unavailable. I am assuming that the aluminum 4.3 pan will not fit, or will it? Adding a return bung to either a steel or aluminum pan is something I am comfortable doing, assuming I can find a pan to fit the chassis...
 

syclone0517

Member
I attempted to search but it appears some older threads were lost at one point.

I'd like to get my hands on a 'new' oil pan for an engine build project. I don't expect to find a SYTY pan, but was very surprised to find that the steel 4.3 4X4 pans are also unavailable. I am assuming that the aluminum 4.3 pan will not fit, or will it? Adding a return bung to either a steel or aluminum pan is something I am comfortable doing, assuming I can find a pan to fit the chassis...
Kind of like this one.20210213_161952.jpg
 
That is quite pretty. I checked Stef's website and facebook. Not a price to be found, which is a bit concerning.

And will it fit? Looks a good bit deeper in both the sump and front. Will keep it in mind if no other options surface.
 

syclone0517

Member
That is quite pretty. I checked Stef's website and facebook. Not a price to be found, which is a bit concerning.

And will it fit? Looks a good bit deeper in both the sump and front. Will keep it in mind if no other options surface.
Yeah it's pricey but for my combo it's necessary. I can't comment on fitment as I have yet to try it in the truck. I suspect there will be some finesse involved. As for first-jen/second-jen pans, they're not interchangeable. I've tried that.
 

proptop

Donating Member
Dan,
Not sure what Pan you are wanting to run but there are a lot of different styles that Stefs has built in the past (I have had them build two different pans for me). As Syclone0517 has stated the older and newer blocks have a different bolt pattern due to the different main seal area. I also might have a modified stock pan for a Syclone in the attic. Hit me up and I will look for you once I better understand your usage. One more thing is that the pan that I use has a big kick out on it and is real close to the front end mount. Not sure what chassis that you will be using.
Thanks,
Bob
 
Just a moderate rebuild in a stock chassis with stock driveline. I am putting solid mounts in while everything is apart.

The vehicle was bought at a theft recovery auction and I have no background on it, but it has serious blow-by. I'm hoping to have the replacement engine to be as complete as possible before pulling the current, just in case some items are too rough to re-use. I found a lower intake and set of Vortec heads in an ad the for sale section, and in another ad a block, crank, splayed billet mains, oil pump with correct pick-up and some Venolia dished pistons. A Motocam360 ecu, 80lb (overkill, but we new and cheap) injectors, Kinugawa TD06H 10cm turbo and billet distributor get me close to finished on the parts list.

The machine work is finished and the engine will be assembled this morning. An oil pan and a set of exhaust manifolds would wake my day/week/year.

I did eventually find an older Stef's catalog, and they did list 14 and 16 gauge steel pans for the 4.3, but no deep sump. That does give me hope that they could put together a unit for a good bit less than that beautiful unit syclone0517 posted.
 

proptop

Donating Member
Dan,
I have up-loaded some pictures below. The steel one is a stock pan that has been modified. i also have another one that doesn't have the extension on the bottom. the Alum is what I have built for my different motors for the Lunch Money truck. As you can see I kick out the Passenger side of the pan and it is really close to the Front end mount but it does fit. The steel one was modified for the use of Eagle rods as the hit a stock pan. It could also bee widen if a person wanted to.
Bob
 

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syclone0517

Member
I have to thank Bob "Proptop" for previously advising me on the Steff's pans. I still have a long road ahead. Getting there slowly. Thanks Bob! Best of luck on your project Dan.20200903_160812.jpg
 

proptop

Donating Member
I really like those valve covers. Nice looking motor. Oil pans can be confusing as there are a lot of options out there.
Bob
 
I don't want to presume or read too much into it, but are you expressing a willingness to part with the steel pan? If yes feel free to PM me a price and Paypal address.

It happens I forgot to mention I am installing Eagle H-beams (started today, but didn't finish).
 

proptop

Donating Member
Dan,
I will sell either one however that you have Eagle rods you need to buy/build a Pan like in the picture. I will shoot you a Pm shortly.
Thanks,
Bob
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
A stock SyTy pan will work with eagle rods. It may need to be clearance a little with a hammer but it does not take very much work at all. The pictured pans should be good to go though.
 
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Sy644

DEAF Syclone
A stock SyTy pan will work with eagle rods. It may need to be clearance a little with a hammer but it does not take very much work at all. The pictured pans should be good to go though.
Same here I hammered oil pan spots where eagle rods hitting.
 

proptop

Donating Member
Gents,
It is more than clearance for the rods. Most won't need to but the main Reason to work on the oil pan is for oil control. Even on a stock motor it could use oil control. 2 cents
Thanks,
Bob
 

Ty1642

Member
A few years ago my starter failed on the way to Carlisle, and I had to get a tow from the PA Turnpike licensed wrecker. They took it to their garage and were crawling all over the truck while I was waiting for someone to come get me. One guy came over with a really concerned look and said he thought they found the problem. He showed me my stock oil pan with big dents in it from the Eagle rod clearancing. I'm pretty sure they thought I was nuts when I said it was supposed to be like that.
 

syclone0517

Member
I have to agree with Proptop. Those H-beam's must be scooping up a lot of oil. Give the rotating assembly a little extra space to shed some oil. Helps reduce windage, oil foaming and speed up drain back to sump. Keep the oil pump pumping oil not air. Every little bit helps and lets face it the 4.3 lubrication system needs all the help it can get. I'm not speaking from experience just good theory. At the end of the day everyone has to run their own program within their own budget. Learn as much as you can from this forum, try to think of everything before making a decision. Save time and money in the long run.
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
Interesting thought on the oil control guys.

One other thing that I found on my trucks oil pan. I found after it was installed on the truck. And it did not seem to effect the flow. But the oil return from the turbo at the pan is tight and I would have changed the oil return location if I had seen how little room there was after four bolt mains are installed. If you are still on two bolt mains there is lots of room. If you have four bolt mains look at this before you install the pan.
 

syclone0517

Member
Interesting thought on the oil control guys.

One other thing that I found on my trucks oil pan. I found after it was installed on the truck. And it did not seem to effect the flow. But the oil return from the turbo at the pan is tight and I would have changed the oil return location if I had seen how little room there was after four bolt mains are installed. If you are still on two bolt mains there is lots of room. If you have four bolt mains look at this before you install the pan.
I understand what your saying. Your right the port does line up with the main cap. I do also have four bolt splayed main caps installed. There still seems to be sufficient clearance around the inside of the port. At least equal to the volume of the port. I don't believe it will restrict flow. There's also a windage screen that Steff's installed in this area. I don't think having the port inline with one of the crank counter weights would be better. All that oil being slung off directly at the port.
 
Thanks for all the great info. Will keep an eye on it when the pan gets installed.

On a related note, I think I may have gotten the last new SyTy oil dipstick tube in the country last year. I may have damaged it during installation. If I did I suspect I can repair it, but would like a backup plan. Is there another GM, or other make, tube that is close enough that reasonable efforts to modify will allow it to fit?
 
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