Pictures of my engine failure.

[Tydriver]

Here are the links for SOME of the pics I took from my damaged motor. This managed to take out my new PT52 Turbo too with less than 200 miles. I am sending it back to PTE for inspection.

Oddly enough, the RODS are in great shape ! Not a single one bent, or beat up (so they appear anyhow). With that said I think its done enough damage the way it is. It appears to have spun 4 of the 6 rod bearings and atleast 2 of the main bearings (havent completely removed crank yet). So I guess its time to start searching for a block in addition to the crank I was already looking for.

Bottom of OIL SCREEN, apparently mesh isnt fine enough HERE

Chunks of misc stuff, guessing mostly bearing material HERE

Close up of the same stuff HERE

Main bearing failure, if you can look close enough, there is part of the bearing sliding out between the cap and the rotating assy HERE

Miscellaneous metal parts splattered all around the crankcase area HERE

Look close enough on the journals and you will see the material that was between the bearings and the crank, this is as I found it after removing ROD CAPS HERE

Same thing going on under the 'MAINS" as I pull off bearing cap and reveal what you see HERE

This rod bearing was the worst spun one, but I am quite sure it spun a main bearing or two.. Guess its time to look for a block in addition to the crank I was already searching for. HERE

 

[Tydriver]

Also, wanted to make mention of something Brian D and I were talking about.

All the recent discussions about HEAD TORQUE and RE-TORQUING with vortec heads.. I cant stress it enough, RE-TORQUE them !

I checked about 5-6 bolts on each head before I removed them. I remember specifically what I had torqued them to before. When I went back and rechecked them they were all around 6-10 lb ft lower than when I set them before. I set them to 75lb ft and most were in the high 60's for torque. So it tells me that the discussion previously mentioned about RETORQUING them after a couple of cycles would be a wise decision. I know I am going to when I get my truck back to the land of running Typhoons.

Just a friendly reminder and an observation.

 

[MyTyphoon1993]

Super sucks bro.

 

[jwaller]

I have a few stock cranks laying around I'll toss your way cheap if you need them. also have some blocks if you end up needing one. but usually a bearing failure doesnt require block replacement.

if it is really bad just line hone it and should be fine....

 

[Tydriver]

Super sucks bro.

Well yes and no..... The part that really bums me out is the fact that it sent metal through my turbo. I'm sure for a small fee PTE can make it right :lol:

Good news is, I already have pistons and rods, vortec heads. All I need is a block, crank, 4 bolt main rod caps, and cam (big stuff) then the small stuff like the timing chain and oil pump etc..

Then machine work and I will have an engine i wont have to think twice about again, I was always nervous leaning on on the stocker with 110k.

Now I wont have to be, can you say FORGED !!!!

heee heee....

 

[Methuselah]

All I need is a block, crank, 4 bolt main rod caps, and cam (big stuff) then the small stuff like the timing chain and oil pump etc..

I may be able to help you out with a block and crank.

Seth.
________
SQUIRTING GUSHING

 

[Tydriver]

I have a few stock cranks laying around I'll toss your way cheap if you need them. also have some blocks if you end up needing one. but usually a bearing failure doesnt require block replacement.

if it is really bad just line hone it and should be fine....

I do appreciate the offer, and if I need to I will be sure to take you up on it. I'm gonna scour the local yards here and see what I can see (so to speak). I think it will work out if not you will be on the contact list.

You dont have any .000 cranks do ya ? I really REALLY dont wanna go the route of .010 or worse turning them down. I want to see if I can stay as close to stock as possible on the crank. GMPP has a performance crank but its $450 Too rich for my blood.

 

[dourtyb]

I bought a standard/standard crank from a local machine shop for $150 when I redid my motor. Shouldn't be too hard to find a good one for cheap.

 

[FLSY2730]

You got 110,000 miles out of the stock motor, thats awesome, hell, they cant last forever, still sucks to have to repair but it is cool to start up a new fresh motor with some go fast parts, makes the wrench turning seem worth it in the end.

 

[AXXE]

I have a stock crank out of a vortec boat motor. Make an offer. Very low hrs. Its just taking up space now.

 

[midnightbluS10]

Are you going for a rolled fillet crank?

 

[Tydriver]

Are you going for a rolled fillet crank?

Sorry for the delay in responding. I managed to locate a crank and block from a semi-local person. I am really NOT upto speed on all that crank terminology. I'd like to inquire more about it if you want to explain it. I am more of a bolt on/bolt off/troubleshooting kinda guy than a research person. I'm still open for suggestions if anyone has any ideas.

Next question, what is a fair price for a BLOCK that needs boring .030 over. No special defects or problems found upon visual inspection.

What about a used crank that may require some turning to make it salvageable ??


I need prices, shoot me ideas of what you guys feel this stuff is worth.

 

[myclone]

Next question, what is a fair price for a BLOCK that needs boring .030 over. No special defects or problems found upon visual inspection.

What about a used crank that may require some turning to make it salvageable ??

I need prices, shoot me ideas of what you guys feel this stuff is worth.

Prices on stuff that "needs work" seems to vary by location so all I can contribute is what I'd pay for the same stuff here in VA.

Crank that needs turned: $0~$20 for one that needs cut more than .010 and at most $50 for one that will clean up at .010. Its more of a personal thing but I wont use a crank thats more than .010 under in a perf app.

Block that needs bored (bare): $0~$50 for one that need to go more than .030 and at most $75 for one that will clean up with a .010-.030 bore.

 

[Tydriver]

[. Its more of a personal thing but I wont use a crank thats more than .010 under in a perf app.

COOL ! I hear ya and agree with ya 110%, fwiw I did talk to Nolan tho and he said his is/was .020 under and obviously I am no where near NOLAN territory on my HP hopes. But still, something about dropping in a crank thats almost worn out already just doesnt seem right to me.


Either way, was gonna stop by CRYO place here in town, turns out its GONE they either moved or closed up (I'm guessing latter). So that kinda sucks balls. Guess will have to search some more.