Power bleed brakes

gmemony2

Active member
Anyone have a recommendation on a bleeder that would work well for one person. I have a pump for the bleeder valves, but would rather not do it this way. It's pretty obvious that the fluid has never been changed and it's filthy. I have a suspicion that the master cylinder may be on it's way out as well, but wanted to give a fresh fluid change a try first.
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
I wanted to do this myself but I found that I could only power bleed the front calipers. The rear wheel cylinders I couldn't open and pull vacuum at the same time. There wasn't enough room if I recall. I ended up having a buddy come over and pump the brakes the old fashioned way.
 

turbodig

Active member
I've had reasonable luck with speed bleeders and an HF vacuum bleed kit.
I think having someone pump the brakes manually would have been lots faster.

Note - if you still have the ABS, you'll want to find someone with a Tech1 to run the ABS module through a bleed cycle. They get full of air on most brake service operations.
 

DaveP's Ghost

Well-known member
I purchased a Motive pressure bleeder a few years ago for the Cayenne and two 911s I take car of for their owners. I've since purchased adapters for several other cars including the 2nd Gen master cyl that is on my Ty, a universal for the ZR-1, and a Ford for the Super Duty. After 50 years of the pump-up and release, I wonder why I waited so long to get a Motive.

As far as bleeding the ABS, the most important thing is to open the side valves on the ABS while bleeding normally. These are brass-colored 10mm hex in about the middle on the inboard and outboard sides. Crack them open about a 1/2 turn, and bleed at the wheels, normally. If you suspect that air is trapped in the ABS (mushy pedal) after there is no air at the wheels: Close the bypass valves. Sit in the seat and apply the brakes with moderate foot pressure. Turn the key to RUN. Jump ALDL terminals A and H, after a couple of seconds, the ABS will cycle, the motor will run. Remove the jumper for a few seconds, jump A and H again. Do this 3-4 times, but don't release the foot pressure. It is best if you can now have a helper open a bleeder at one front, and one rear wheel without ever releasing the pedal. This will move any air that was evacuated out of the ABS far enough down-stream that it will not get back into the ABS. Release the pedal, and bleed a few cycles at each wheel normally. If you don't have a helper, it may take a couple of tries to get the air out of the ABS. You don't need a Tech-1. Just the jumper and your foot. And knowing about opening the bypasses on the side.
 
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Timbo

SyTy Stalker
I also use a Motive pressure bleeder. Haven't used it on the Ty, but I have on lots of other stuff, and it has been great.
 

Poconojoe

Donating Member
For anyone using a vacuum bleeder, make sure that you remove the bleeders and put grease on the threads, to prevent them from leaking in air, and making it look like, there is still air in the lines
 
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