I have all the suspension off the front end of my Blazer for my AWD conversion. I cleaned all the rust off, and put a layer of rattle can paint on it. The problem is that it scratches off to easily. I considered the spray cans of undercoating, but I think that it is too much like tar.. it doesnt seem to cure and be rubberized like I want. any ideas?
Protecting frame on a restoration?
- Thread starter Kramer
- Start date
THEMADTYPH00N
Active member
POR 15
actually just did some research on this tonight. don't figure brush marks to much, but i plan on using a foam brush and not hair. and the por-15 coats like you wouldn't believe, very pricey but a little goes a long way. 2 quarts should be enough to coat all the undercarriage and engine bay, it would be close but doable.
and like i said, the great thing about this stuff is when it cures it is as hard as a 13 year old boy watching Charlie's Angels. truly stops rust in it's tracks. bout to do a whole bunch on my truck hopefully and will post some pics as it's going on.
and like i said, the great thing about this stuff is when it cures it is as hard as a 13 year old boy watching Charlie's Angels. truly stops rust in it's tracks. bout to do a whole bunch on my truck hopefully and will post some pics as it's going on.
sy112 said:
Really? You took the words right out of my mouth. Well except for that lame Charlies angels joke. :roll:
Don and I will probably go in together and buy enough for both trucks.
I wouldn't buy it in larger then a qt. and then only if I knew I could use all of it.
POR15 seems to have a pretty short shelf life after you open it
Por 15 is the only way to go. I helped a good friend restore a Jeep CJ5 a few years ago with the stuff. As far as the brush strokes go, we brushed his on and it looked great once it cured. Make sure the surface is clean, I would wire brush off the rattle can paint and then apply, but I'm sure you could get away without doing that. Once this stuff sets up it's a PITA to get off, so make sure to wipe any accidental drips off with a clean damp cloth.
The stuff is expensive, but you want the best protection you can get, so it's worth it. I think we did that CJ5 for under $100 (that was a total body off resto, that had a ton of rust repairs and body work too). Good luck!
Will
The stuff is expensive, but you want the best protection you can get, so it's worth it. I think we did that CJ5 for under $100 (that was a total body off resto, that had a ton of rust repairs and body work too). Good luck!
Will
por-15 is the shizzle. i did the frame on my truck (body and everything completely off), and damn does it look nice. of course i took the time to sand blast the entire thing first so i could get a really smooth finish. i bought a gallon of the stuff, WAY WAY WAY too much for the entire frame. I did two coats and still have over a half gallon left.
i actually have pictures of the truck frame before and after the por job, omg, it is rediculous how much better it looks now.
a couple tips:
if you do you use por-15, any place that will see sunlight (uv rays) will need to be topcoated.
also, buy lots of brushes, cleaning that crap off of a brush is just plain retarded. just chuck the brushes when done.
dont forget to buy lots of rubber/doctor's type gloves, where a long sleeve shirt that you really dont like, where jeans, and old beater shoes. anything, and i mean anything you get this stuff on, it will stay on forever and then some. paint thiner will NOT remove it from your hands, there is not anything that will short of a belt sander. seriously, dont get it on your skin.
make sure the surface is really dry and really clean. if you are putting it to bare metal be sure to use their metal prep. get their marine clean to make sure your stuff is really clean.
i can post the pics if someone has a place i can host them. i am very happy with how the frame turned out for a first timer.
chad
i actually have pictures of the truck frame before and after the por job, omg, it is rediculous how much better it looks now.
a couple tips:
if you do you use por-15, any place that will see sunlight (uv rays) will need to be topcoated.
also, buy lots of brushes, cleaning that crap off of a brush is just plain retarded. just chuck the brushes when done.
dont forget to buy lots of rubber/doctor's type gloves, where a long sleeve shirt that you really dont like, where jeans, and old beater shoes. anything, and i mean anything you get this stuff on, it will stay on forever and then some. paint thiner will NOT remove it from your hands, there is not anything that will short of a belt sander. seriously, dont get it on your skin.
make sure the surface is really dry and really clean. if you are putting it to bare metal be sure to use their metal prep. get their marine clean to make sure your stuff is really clean.
i can post the pics if someone has a place i can host them. i am very happy with how the frame turned out for a first timer.
chad
Joey Allen
MUNCHKIN
As for those lookin for a spray bomb application, I had a friend who does tons of restoration projects recommended Plastic Coat - Satin Black. I got some my local parts store but it can be hard to find and then it's anywhere from 3 to 5 bucks a can. But it did a great job looks factory. With my Ty I took it to the car wash and got all that I could off of paint and grease. Then I took a wire brush to areas missed, took out inner fenders, cleaned all parts with a rag of paint thinner let dry then sprayed. Turned out really good for about 25.00 bucks.
Do you think that the POR15 stuff would work better than having the frame sandblasted then powdercoated?? Cause thats what i plan on doing, i have afriend that does powdercoat and is going to hook me up with an awesome deal. Just would like to know what everybody thinks.
protosy said:
im assuming this truck is back together now....any new pics? did the sandblasting cause any problems? like sand grains getting in the suspension parts and bushings? im about to do the same thing to mine...would a pressure washer be sufficient instead of sandblasting?