quick couple questions...

Mephisto

These trucks are cursed
i tried the search and couldnt find that one post that showed the remote trans filter with the trans temp gauge hooked up... i think it was either falco or 4C Fed that had pics? i dunno i could be way off, anyway im looking for the part # on the remote trans filter and any info on settin it up etc...

also does anyone have a part # for the filter that goes in the driver side valve cover?
 

SY2932

Administrator
IMG_0246.thumb.jpg

"Summit remote transmission filter part #SUM-G4980. Filter is upstream of all coolers mounted where the stock battery tray was. Temperature sender is between the lines."

http://syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=11625&highlight=remote+transmission+filter

http://syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.ph...&start=0&sid=f4aefbe3138eebf2b6fcc0ab6a48b45c
 

Mephisto

These trucks are cursed
Mike, whats the part number on the B&M trans cooler youre using? the one i have is much smaller and has a hairline crack in it, so its time for a new one...

with a bigger trans cooler can you bypass running it through the stock cooler and be ok? or does it really cool temps down that much more by running it through both...

one last thing... i have the autometer gauge, will their sending unit fit in the remote filter, or will i need something else?

thanks for help everyone
 

SY2932

Administrator
Neal, I am running B&M's 24,000 GVW trans cooler in both my syclone and S10. Summit part number for it is BMM-70264 at $49.88. B&M has a larger cooler, 28,000 GVW #BMM-70268 at $59.88. However, it doesn't come with hose, barbed fittings or clamps. It is also set up for 1/2" NPT fittings whereas all the other coolers are just barbed. So, if you are on the "braided line" bandwagon, that may have some merit for ya.

Being that you live in Californication, you could very well get away with bypassing the stock in radiator cooler. However, one thing to keep in mind is your trans fluid will take longer to heat up to normal operating temp because it won't be getting heated by the engine coolant that it would be if you were still using the stock in radiator cooler. Keeping with "too much of a good thing" ATF that is too cold can be bad because the seals won't expand and seal properly. Which makes it more likely that they can get damaged if you drive "spirited" with the trans still cold. It's not so different than letting a motor reach normal operating temperature before you go out and beat on it.

Having both coolers in service works out nice for me. My cooling circuit is plumbed so that the ATF goes through the stock in radiator cooler before the aux one. Figured that the in radiator one would remove some of the heat and the aux cooler that is independent of the in radiator one can cool it even more before it goes back to the trans. Retaining the stock cooler also gets the ATF to normal operating temp sooner too. During the cold Ohio winters, I use two cable ties to secure an old license plate turned backwards on the grill of my S10 in front of the cooler. That way my transmission can GET hot. I don't drive my syclone in the winter so, it's not an issue for it. With regards to the trans temp sender here's the set up that I have on my S10:
IMG_0554.sized.jpg

"Summit remote transmission filter #SUM-G4980 with Autometer trans temp sender and AC Delco PF13 (short) filter that I have on my daily driven 3.4L S10." HTH's
 

Mephisto

These trucks are cursed
Mike,

thanks for the info! got everything i needed to know and then some! :D

im not on the braided hose bandwagon just yet, id rather save money towards my alky kit, than have pretty hoses.

judging from all the other posts, it looks like under the battery tray is the prefered location to mount this remote filter, so i guess im going with that.

thanks to everyone for thier input, even though its been rehashed and gone over 100 times, its always good to get some fresh input.
 

SY2932

Administrator
I don't *think* that you will be able to squeeze the remote filter UNDER the battery tray even with the PF13 short filter. If you do, the lines will prolly have some funky bends to them and the only way you will be able to remove the filter will be by removing the battery and tray. You will have to delete your vacuum reservoir or relocate it at the very least if you go that route. I deleated mine and have NO issues whatsoever, cruise still works fine as well as all my HVAC controls... I mounted my remote filter on my S10 here:
IMG_0564_001.thumb.jpg

"Summit remote trans filter installed on passenger side frame of my 3.4L S10."

I have my battery relocated with the ATR setup and it made my road to modification MUCH easier after I go the battery out of the stock location:
air_intake.thumb.jpg

"DIY air intake K&N filter, Bob Galla turbo to IC pipe and HKS SSBOV. Remote trans filter w/trans temp gauge sender is below air filter."

I can remove the trans filter relatively easily and all I have to do is disconnect my air filter. FWIW, if you do mount it where the stock battery tray was using the bolt that held the tray in place, you will have to cut a small groove in the washer on the bolt. The reason is because the way the filter housing is cast, the reinforcemnet "rib" below the topmost mounting hole will prevent the bolt from tightening all the way down. Of course, you could always go to the local hardware store and get a bolt that doesn't have that huge washer on it. The thread pitch of the bolt that holds the battery tray is place is M8 X 1.25 X 25 MM long.

Here's a post from way back covering the details of my setup: http://syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=147882&highlight=#147882 HTH's a little more.
 
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