remove ABS?
- Thread starter sy #498
- Start date
If you are a decent driver then things shouldn't be that large of a deal. On dry pavement you probably won't ever notice, but the first time it rains and you jam on the brakes you will slide for sure. Just have to learn to be careful in less than perfect situations, like rain, losse gravel on side of road, etc.
A far as removing, it is pretty stright forward, just need to figure out how to re-run the lines. i am pulling out the old lines till about where the firewall is on the frame and going to replace all of it. Get rid of those horrible loops in the lines. They are put there to make sure the lines don't crack or anything under vibration or flexing. But I figure if you give a little slack and nice curves in the new running then things will be alright. Mike Hood did a great job of doing it, do a search and you will find some pics.
good luck
A far as removing, it is pretty stright forward, just need to figure out how to re-run the lines. i am pulling out the old lines till about where the firewall is on the frame and going to replace all of it. Get rid of those horrible loops in the lines. They are put there to make sure the lines don't crack or anything under vibration or flexing. But I figure if you give a little slack and nice curves in the new running then things will be alright. Mike Hood did a great job of doing it, do a search and you will find some pics.
good luck
Lynn D. Brown
New member
ABS removal
ABS removal
Don,
Somebody - was it Mike Renz ? - was going to put a little kit together and sell it to us very reasonably on a GP to remove the ABS. Guess Mike must not have found enuf interest, altho' I told him I was.
ABS removal
Don,
Somebody - was it Mike Renz ? - was going to put a little kit together and sell it to us very reasonably on a GP to remove the ABS. Guess Mike must not have found enuf interest, altho' I told him I was.
A GP would be nice but i don't really think it is all that necessary. All the parts are relatively cheap anyways.
I personally just took all the old line off back to the connection right under the firewall. Then disconnected the front at he connection on the frame rail just forward of where it connects to the left front brake. Then used some clothes hangers and kind of mocked out how I wanted to run the new line. Spent about an afternoon looking around for some line about the correct length so hopefully I wouln't have to do any flaring. I got a small peice of line to use from the "t" to the front left brake, that will have to be flared on one end, couldn't find one short enough. Other than that it will just take some patience mocking it up. I will see if all the lines fit then just try to post the part numbers of the lines that will fit correctly with no flaring.
There has been many post about this, Brian listed the parts he used, as well as some others.
Now just to decide whether I want to keep the cruise or not????
I personally just took all the old line off back to the connection right under the firewall. Then disconnected the front at he connection on the frame rail just forward of where it connects to the left front brake. Then used some clothes hangers and kind of mocked out how I wanted to run the new line. Spent about an afternoon looking around for some line about the correct length so hopefully I wouln't have to do any flaring. I got a small peice of line to use from the "t" to the front left brake, that will have to be flared on one end, couldn't find one short enough. Other than that it will just take some patience mocking it up. I will see if all the lines fit then just try to post the part numbers of the lines that will fit correctly with no flaring.
There has been many post about this, Brian listed the parts he used, as well as some others.
Now just to decide whether I want to keep the cruise or not????
DanenGraham
Big in the rear
Hell, my ABS doesnt work so its going to go. (I got a nice ice box to put in its place) my cruise doent work as well so its not on the truck anymore.
Renz was going to do a GP on it, as well as a GP on a hard Turbo to IC pipe. But that has been almost a year now.
Don, if you do find some parts that dont need to be flared to make this work i would love the P#'s. I want to do this but have never flared or bent lines before so its kind of new to me.
Renz was going to do a GP on it, as well as a GP on a hard Turbo to IC pipe. But that has been almost a year now.
Don, if you do find some parts that dont need to be flared to make this work i would love the P#'s. I want to do this but have never flared or bent lines before so its kind of new to me.
DanenGraham
Big in the rear
93ty475 said:
Well its the one off Jeff Scotts page, i got it from him a while back.(think he still has pics) Just need to put it on. Holds one more gallon of watter, and has room for about a bag of ice. Should help out a little.
Lynn D. Brown
New member
Great, Mike
I'm interested. have fun @ Penn State !
I'm interested. have fun @ Penn State !
sytyguy
Moderated User
As Don mentioned, I decided to remove the "coiled" lines in an attempt to clean up the engine bay, and make spark plug access that much easier. Some had concerns with body flex, but I left about 3" of movement in the lines for that. Plus, if I ever have enough body lift/flex to damage a brake line, then I've got bigger things to worry about. 
Here's a couple of pictures from back in the day, but my design is unchanged:
http://www.georgiasyty.com/Michael/engine.htm
I have the truck in the garage and can snap some up close shots for those in need. FWIW, I hand bent all the lines, making smooth bends to get the line where I needed it. Most of the time, the off-the-shelf lines are limber enough to coax by hand. This makes it much easier than using a tubing bender for every little turn. IIRC, I made 2 double flares which were the ends going into the prop valve.
If need be, I can bend up some lines like this for anyone interested. They take no time and I'd prolly need to get like $8-10 for a pair made up (plus S&H).
I'll snap some more shots and do some more measuring to see if there is a drop-in line we could use and just bend it up. This would eliminate the need for cutting & reflaring the lines.
Michael
Here's a couple of pictures from back in the day, but my design is unchanged:
http://www.georgiasyty.com/Michael/engine.htm
I have the truck in the garage and can snap some up close shots for those in need. FWIW, I hand bent all the lines, making smooth bends to get the line where I needed it. Most of the time, the off-the-shelf lines are limber enough to coax by hand. This makes it much easier than using a tubing bender for every little turn. IIRC, I made 2 double flares which were the ends going into the prop valve.
If need be, I can bend up some lines like this for anyone interested. They take no time and I'd prolly need to get like $8-10 for a pair made up (plus S&H).
I'll snap some more shots and do some more measuring to see if there is a drop-in line we could use and just bend it up. This would eliminate the need for cutting & reflaring the lines.
Michael
Lynn D. Brown
New member
ABS removal
ABS removal
Mike,Yeh, I'd be glad to pay you for that. Any of you other guys interested ?
I'm sure I could figure out how to do it, but I've doing so many Mods and there's no sense me reinventing the wheel and possibly F'ing it up when other guys have already figured it out.
ABS removal
Mike,Yeh, I'd be glad to pay you for that. Any of you other guys interested ?
I'm sure I could figure out how to do it, but I've doing so many Mods and there's no sense me reinventing the wheel and possibly F'ing it up when other guys have already figured it out.
sytyguy
Moderated User
Well.....if I can find some lines that don't require flaring, then I can probably cut the cost in half. I'm obviously not out to make any money on this, and it's absurdly convenient for me to do. Plus, you'd have a hard time recreating these lines for this cost, and it's no problem for me, so if anyone's interested, just lemme know.
I've just gotta do some more measuring and make sure that there's enough "play" in the design to accomodate everybody's truck.
I'll let you guys know what I come up with Tuesday,
Hood
I've just gotta do some more measuring and make sure that there's enough "play" in the design to accomodate everybody's truck.
I'll let you guys know what I come up with Tuesday,
Hood
DanenGraham
Big in the rear
Im in for a set. Let us know.
DanenGraham
Big in the rear
Don, i read you post then looked at your Avatar. HaHa
