Still lost on rebuilding motor?

nomoty

Still Boosted
I have been doing some reading and
"27) - Stronger Rods - $450

The stock rods are barely acceptable for the stock truck and totally unacceptable in a built motor running high boost. Aftermarket rods for a small block will do fine (Eagle, JE, etc....). L35 rods from a later model 4.3 will do just fine as well. These can be obatined from the dealer for $75 each, but for that price aftermarket ones can be purchased as well.

28) - Forged Pistons - $200

The stock piston is a hypereutectic piston that is prone to fail under consistent amounts of detonation. TRW pistons have much more material on the face of the piston and stand up better to prolonged exposure to detonation. These pistons can be picked up from any major parts provider (Summit, Jeg's, etc...) for about $30 each. *These pistons may be under the name Speed-Pro, but just look for the Supercharger/Turbocharger piston with 8.34:1 compression."

Taken off GAST site. Now Do the pistons need to be for a 262 or what? Should the pistons be made for a .03 overbore? What rods exactly? Is that all I need to rebuild the motor? Maybe a cam?

summit has 350 pistons for forced induction w/ 8.24 comp and 64cc are those it?


TIA
 

UNIsackV6

Member
Search the archives for some reading material or PM someone who has had good luck with the type of build you are talking about as there are several. The pistons are a common peice you just need to know your bore, if you're .030 over then you need to tell them that. For instance my bore is 4.100 so I had to order them for that exact size. Rods are simple as you really want stronger than stock, the eagles have worked well but I guess it just depends on your budget. Have your stock crank nitrided and the rod journals polished. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish but you should start with a end goal in mind before you start otherwise you'll end up spending a lot more than you ever thought. Post some of your goals and people will be more inclined to help you out. Good luck.

Ryan
STG
 

E-Rue

New member
im pretty sure small block internals cannot be used.

id really like to hear oppinions on power vs. money. for example, how much power can we make before the L35 rods become questionable, and spending the additional money for the eagles becomes warranted?. if i can find a used set of L35 rods for $100, it would be a great savings over buying a set of eagles, but if i really needed the eagles........
well, im sure bent rods are no fun

i guess what i really want to know is just how strong are the stock, late model, 4.3 rods?

e
 

nomoty

Still Boosted
Well as far as goals high 11's low 12's that is very streetable. I would like to use the 50# setup overall w/ a pte52. I am guessing that would put me close to my goal with some good tuning. As far as the bore I guess it depends on what the block is bored to huh? Also do to the L-35 heads post My heads appear to be that. Also I guess I won't know what the bore will be till the block is checked out and it is determined how much it must be bored?
What are you running in the 1/4 E-RUE?
 

E-Rue

New member
i have no idea. everytime i try and see how fast it will go i break something. its been the transmission here lately, but i have a built one now, so i should have some track times as soon as i get off my lazy ass and go make it happen.

e
 

nomoty

Still Boosted
Damn I think this break before you race thing is a Plague. You sound like me I have ran it once and it was runnin bad then but I wanted to get an idea where i was. Well EVERYONE please feel free to provide you ideas or what has worked for you. I am curious to know what some of these guys that are runnin low 12's are doing.
 

nomoty

Still Boosted
Well finally found my answer. A guy in red oak 10 miles away knows all about the syty, just put a new motor in the white ty that was for sale in Glen Heights and Has a 93 Ty w/ no rack, no spoiler, sony cassett, roof consol, like 71k miles w/ minor hail dent and the back right cladding needs paint & left back need replaced FS $ 11,900. Anyway he is gonna call me in a couple days and give me a total price on rebuilding my motor w/ some good shit in it. Told him I wanted to run 11's he said great. When I talked to him he said on the white ty he put a new factory motor and I was like so you put a motor w/ a balance shaft in it and he was hell no I would never do that he had found a dealer up north w/ a syty motor still in the crate and he said it was bored 30 over. But i will inform as things unfold but he was talkin about lt1 springs and lifters, and a special thing he can do to run like 10 compression and I was like interesting. TTYL
 

myclone

Donating Member
E-RUE said:
im pretty sure small block internals cannot be used.

id really like to hear oppinions on power vs. money. for example, how much power can we make before the L35 rods become questionable, and spending the additional money for the eagles becomes warranted?. if i can find a used set of L35 rods for $100, it would be a great savings over buying a set of eagles, but if i really needed the eagles........
well, im sure bent rods are no fun

i guess what i really want to know is just how strong are the stock, late model, 4.3 rods?

e

Id like to know the rating on L35s myself.. Them thar Eagles are awfully purdy though. :p

FWIW..

Bore and stroke are same as SBC (in stock configuration on both)
Pistons/rings are the same as SBC
Rods are the same dimension but diff on the big end (V6 rods are slightly narrower at the big eng I believe.)
Flywheel/flex plates are the same as is the mounting bolt pattern
Valve train parts are same as SBC
Head bolts/main cap bolts are the same as SBC
Oil pump is the same as SBC
Timing chain is same as SBC
Water pump is same as SBC
Front accessories (AC, power steering, alt, etc) are the same as SBC
Brackets to hold front accessories on the eng are same as SBC

Thats all I can think of right off but there is a ton of stuff that is the same for both but there are a few diff that are easily overlooked.

You will need pistons to give to your machinist for final bore size. This means you will need to check the block to see if it actually needs to be bored and order pistons accordingly unless you want to overbore it for a little extra displacement. Thats up to you as over sized pistons are usually the same price as standard bore ones.

There seems to be an ongoing debate on what rods/main cap configuration are nec to build a reliable/long lasting high 11 low 12 sec eng. Most ppl, IMO, just go with four bolt mains, forged pistons, and Eagle rods just to keep from finding out the hard way that other parts arent strong enough. Its expensive to try other unsubstantiated builds so most ppl follow a proven method that fits their budget.

To sum it up.. Most of the "old school" SBC mods will cross over to the 4.3. If you are familiar with the SBC then a 4.3 is a cake walk to build. Installing/removing one on a syty is not.
 

smeagol

Active member
FWIW, I had L35 rods in my old motor that ran 11.01 and numerous low 11 second passes. Rods were really well prepped and had good bolts. I didn't do the buildup, Rob Stevenson in Florida did, and he really did a thorough job (other than the oil pump pickup... DOH!).

Also, typical SBC rods can't be used, the 4.3 has a larger pin on the crankshaft, to hopefully remedy the evenfire stagger of the adjacent rods. I believe it's 2.100" pin diameter. This is the main reason we have a difficult time finding rods.

If you only want high 11s out of the truck, get the L35 rods. Easy to get, hold up to that power easy, and won't require the clearancing of the oilpan the Eagle rods do. If you think you want the extra strength or will lean on it... do the Eagle rods.
 

Methuselah

New member
smeagol said:
FWIW, I had L35 rods ... Rods were really well prepped

Ive nearly complete my collection of L35s thanks to super nice guy Jim Sloan. Could you be more specific about what was prepped? You mean polished along the length of the rod or more or less than that?

Thanks.
________
Amateur Exposed
 
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jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
I bent 4 of the L35 rods in my last motor and they were prepped with pro arp bolts and polished. I now run the Eagles and they now don't require ANY pan mods. dont ask me how but I used the stock pan and nothing had to be beaten out. hell you can get eagles for $550 or so. why use anything else. cheap insurance in my book. by the time you spend the money to get the L35's buy the bolts polish them and have them resized after putting the new bolts in. you could have just bought the eagles and been done with it.
 
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