Sy #2811 engine and brakes

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Did you clearance the pan (bang with a hammer) to clear the rods? The Eagle rods will hit the pan in 1 or 2 spots.

no I didn't clearance the pan I was led to believe it was not needed can't remember were I read that but, I hope that is how simple it will be to fix but until I can make the time to get back under her I will not know for sure. The sounds I am hearing would make sense from pan smack. thanks for your opinion. when I had the pan off I felt around and didn't find any spots that felt like impact point

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Damn.

I have a similar issue with my engine. The crank hits the piston boss on 1 and 6 so I need to take the crank out, grind the end off and clear the base of the pistons. They are 4mm wider than the stockers. Really annoying.

Hope there was no damage to the rest of the engine.

The engine never really ran long enough to to cause any clear failures but metal hitting metal is always not good. As Chug mentioned there was visible scratching on the crank upper main webbing between the cylinder banks.
The knocking is all in the back end and doesn't dance around at all, plus it is not consistent or of the same volumes, at one point it was barely audible as if it wore down what ever was touching then came back louder than before and then went back to its original volume. Total run time 15-20 minutes always at idle and never under load, didn't even get the timing set yet to break in the came. Felt it to be to dangerous to the components to even try to finish the timing. I had Chug and another experienced friend, who owns a very clean and QUICK Buick GN that built the Air/Air cooler for Chug, have a listen and we all agree its not a rod knock but cant decide for certain by the sound what it is

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

well after a long quiet time with no activity on the board I found a nice cool weekend all to myself and tore into her and found the reason why the knock couldn't be isolated or defined very well. It seems when you add the Eagle H-beam rods the block is not the only thing that needs to be clearanced, the stock oil pan is to shallow to clear the rod bolts.One hour later with another pan, a 5lb hammer, 42lbs bag of sand I was able to make enough clearance about a 1/2 in lower down the center third section.

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I am not posting a picture of the fix because it was done ugly not having the time or mony to get a professional fix. My apologizes for any disappointment this may cause, I am a simple middle class guy not having much money to spare

 

[e95 Ty]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

That's the way a lot of guys clearance the pan, i'm sure it will be fine. Any fix is better than the rod bolts hitting the pan.....Get that thing done and show some updates.:tup:

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

its sitting in the driveway now, timed in and starts right up and idles choppy (422 cam and 1.6 rockers)but smooth and way way rich, it is still on the upgraded tune for a stock set up but running the 60lbs injectors.

While doing the engine I was also redoing the brakes with everything off the front for repairs anyways it seemed like a good time to work on the brakes.

So here are some of the first things I did. I grabbed a hydro boost pump off an Astro van cleaned it up painted it and flipped it upside down for better line routing like others have done, using Endura hose and fittings I plumbed it all up to the factory PS pump.

Instead of buying a high dollar stock PS pump for a hydro boost truck which has (2) return lines, I simply tied the return lines together with a "T" fitting and ran back into the stock PS pump

 

[Black Knight]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Looks good, you should throw a plate in there behind the booster to cover the hole.

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Looks good, you should throw a plate in there behind the booster to cover the hole.

I knew some one was going to catch that I have the aluminum to make that plate and it will be a simple drop in sliding over the top 2 bolts, maybe smaller ones at top and with some sealant between to keep the water out

 

[Black Knight]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

I knew some one was going to catch that I have the aluminum to make that plate and it will be a simple drop in sliding over the top 2 bolts, maybe smaller ones at top and with some sealant between to keep the water out

I wouldn't worry about sealing it, I never do. Once you get a plate in there and tighten it down, nothings going in there.

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

with the ABS pump bad and the cost to replace it, I opt'd just to eliminate it all together forcing me to create the lines from the proportioning valve to the frame mounted ends. here is the start with the front lines being made first.

here is where I used a "T" fitting to get fluid channeling to both the left and right sides

the line from the "T" fitting to the left caliper was a tight compound bend and can be done w/o any kinks, but getting double flairs on such a small piece with only the hand crank kit was a fun trick. Also in this picture you can see one of the poly bushings that I installed throughout the truck

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

with both lines made, routed and tightened up

the focus turns to the rear end which I grabbed off a 2000-ish 4 wheel disc brake Blazer. Sorry no pictures of the axle swap, some times i forget to stop, grab the camera and document. But I did snap a shot of the left and right side completed axle swap. No the spacers were not left on, not sure why they were even there

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Since I swapped the drum rear end out for a disc. I also grabbed the whole knuckle system with double piston calipers off the same Blazer to tie all the corners together.

A lot of work I wanted to do could not be done because I was working with out a garage and plenty of code enforcement rules. All the work which required dis-assembly also meant it had to be re-assembled and wheels on ground in a complete vehicle look as to preserve curb appeal by Monday morning by 8:00 am.

The hydro boost lines that run from the PS pump back to the brake booster are real tight against the block but I squeezed it through... barely

Front looking back