tranny shifting sluggish
- Thread starter Mephisto
- Start date
B
Blake
Guest
Hey Tooky,
SRTA=Service Replacement Transmission Assembly
Here's a link where they discuss how the engines and trannies are built and tested but nothing on prices. Warranties range from 3/36 to 3/50.
http://service.gm.com/techlink/html_en/pdf/200011-en.pdf
Starts on page 4.
From reading the article, it's a really good tranny, but may not have the shift "feel" you're used to. Definitely not a bad way to go if you need your ride running.
Blake
SRTA=Service Replacement Transmission Assembly
Here's a link where they discuss how the engines and trannies are built and tested but nothing on prices. Warranties range from 3/36 to 3/50.
http://service.gm.com/techlink/html_en/pdf/200011-en.pdf
Starts on page 4.
From reading the article, it's a really good tranny, but may not have the shift "feel" you're used to. Definitely not a bad way to go if you need your ride running.
Blake
unluckyty
Member
The only price I could find in my stack of repair work, is $1844.70 for srta tranny. That was in 02/00 since then, been replaced twice. warranty still good till this Dec. The tranny you get from them, will not be correct. Brian Hartman, helped me with the right parts that should at least be in the tranny. Thanks again Brian(still working so far)
Greg
Greg
Brian Hartman
New member
You are welcome bro. Sometimes the SRTA is the best way to go if the circumstances are right. I've suggested going with it to several people recently because the timing wasn't right to do build up their own. You know, college, no time, no garage, scary economic times, etc. You have a better chance working with GM, horrible as that might sound, than a run of the mill transmission shop.
Keep laying down 4 stripes on the launch...um I mean three
Keep laying down 4 stripes on the launch...um I mean three
White97SVT
Member
when your tranny was shuddering.....when was that happening, and what did it feel like. I think i have the same problem with mine right now, but i really hope not.
GM's having a hard time w/me pulling up with the trans in the back of my ford ranger asking for a new one. Did anyone get GM to replace their SRTA trans w/o having the dealer do the r&r? A local dealer told me (on the down low) that they only want to deal w/me if they do the trans b/c labor is paid to them by GM and w/o labor they make nothing, but take a risk if the trans isn't covered. I've been screwed so hard by other GMC dealers that no mechanic is ever gonna wrench on my truck again and I'll rebuild my blown a*s SRTA myself before I bring the truck into the shop. I almost had one local dealer by agreeing to trailer the SY in so they could check it out, but it'd be tough to convince them that it wasn't used for racing. I even promised to load the new trans w/strengthened parts and race the sh*t out of it- voiding the warranty and assuring them they'd never see me again, but no dice. Any advice?
I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination but here is what I recommend.
Change the fluid. I remember a discussion about the pro's and con's of the fluid "flush." While I don't remember an actually statement coming out the this is bad - there were some who were skeptical. I have done this procedure a couple times with good luck. I have not dropped the pan on my trans. It has 105K miles on the STOCK trans - 53K of what are my miles so I can attest to how it was driven. The only problem I am having with mine is I don't have engine braking i.e. I downshift into a lower gear and it kinda freewheels until I hit the gas. For all practical purposes it still works - I am not happy with that - but I still have all moving gears. I have talked to people about it - including Hartman - and I don't feel there is a reason to rebuild it until it craps out.
Something else you might want to look at is the condition of your propshaft and driveshaft. U-joints. Does it clunk when you put it in gear? If the U-joints have been replaced on the rear driveshaft it will have zerk fittings. If they are stock - it won't. If they have been replaced give 'em a little grease. Lubed the front propshaft? Check that as well.
This might or might not make a difference - but all that stuff is a hella lot cheaper than a trans rebuild. The fluid being the biggest. Maybe someone can step up and say the trans "flush" is bad - and tell me WHY. Again I have had good luck doing it this way.
Change the fluid. I remember a discussion about the pro's and con's of the fluid "flush." While I don't remember an actually statement coming out the this is bad - there were some who were skeptical. I have done this procedure a couple times with good luck. I have not dropped the pan on my trans. It has 105K miles on the STOCK trans - 53K of what are my miles so I can attest to how it was driven. The only problem I am having with mine is I don't have engine braking i.e. I downshift into a lower gear and it kinda freewheels until I hit the gas. For all practical purposes it still works - I am not happy with that - but I still have all moving gears. I have talked to people about it - including Hartman - and I don't feel there is a reason to rebuild it until it craps out.
Something else you might want to look at is the condition of your propshaft and driveshaft. U-joints. Does it clunk when you put it in gear? If the U-joints have been replaced on the rear driveshaft it will have zerk fittings. If they are stock - it won't. If they have been replaced give 'em a little grease. Lubed the front propshaft? Check that as well.
This might or might not make a difference - but all that stuff is a hella lot cheaper than a trans rebuild. The fluid being the biggest. Maybe someone can step up and say the trans "flush" is bad - and tell me WHY. Again I have had good luck doing it this way.
B
Blake
Guest
GM turbo, you don't have engine braking because you probably blew the seal off of the overrun clutch piston. I drove my Ty like this for almost 30K before rebuilding it.
White97SVT,
If yours just started shuddering after after 1000s of miles, you probably just need to change your fluid and put in lubegard. After you put in the new fluid, and lubegard it will take several TCC applies before the clutch soaks up the new fluid. Your best bet is to have it flushed out with the fluid of your choice. This way ALL of the old burnt fluid gets flushed out. Just dropping the pan leaves some fluid in the TC then this dilutes the new fluid and you run the risk of the shudder coming back. I had problems with my TC since it was installed. It was dumping metal into the cooler and tranny. I doubt if this is your problem unless you have a bunch of metal on the magnet in your pan. I would have as much as a 1/4" of metal on the magnet in as little as 30 miles. I was advised this was normal break-in. This is not normal break in. Unless you see this, a fluid change will most likely fix you up. The lubegard penetrates the paper frictions on the clutches and the band and helps rejuvinate its friction properties.
One other thing I saw was kinda cool but only works if you have an aux cooler somewhere and a soft return line you can loosen. You can do a regular tranny pan drop kinda fluid change, then fill it back up. Then, have some one help you by starting the truck while you have your return line(after the coolers on the way back to the tranny,this is the top line) in a catch pail. They start the truck. Let it run for 20 seconds. Turn it off. You should have pumped out at least a quart. Put another new quart of fluid in the tranny fill. Do this again till you've gone through 5 or 6 quarts. This works because the fluid that you are removing just came from the torque converter so you will be purging out the rest of the bad fluid that was in the coverter and the coolers. Don't mean to repeat it, but the fluid goes from the TC to the cooler and then back to the tranny. HTH.
SY2185,
You may have been able to work out something by letting them diagnose the tranny with it in the truck since it was under warranty. Then tell them that you would pull it and bring it back. Their problem is that the tranny you brought them may not be the one that you bought(fraud possiblity). I know to you it sounds rediculous because you would never do that, but it happens. If they would've seen that it was messed up and that you needed another one, you may have been able to work out something with the service manager. By telling them you would race it and blow it up with good parts in it didn't help and they will tell GM about it. Went through this on the Firebird I had that GM bought back as a Lemon. Racing came up several times because of the type of vehicle it was. Tell them you are doing it and you can forget any kind of warranty. Maybe try another dealer. If they ever pull one and come to you with a broken part and ask you what happen just tell them that you were trying to pull out of the drive through and bam. If you say that you were pulling away from the light red flags go up.
The sy's transfer case has a double roller chain of sorts in it. My sy's(the one that Jesse now drives)broke one side of the chain. Not the whole thing just one side. It actually did it while I was pulling out of the car wash. The service manager was actually salivating try to tell me that I broke it racing. I finally offered to take him to where the car wash was at and duplicate what I was doing when it happened and asked him if spraying the underside of the truck with water from the car wash could have had anything to do with it. They fixed it and gave me no other grief. JUST DO NOT BRING UP RACING, PERIOD.
Just opinions. Just experienced a little of the stuff you guys are going through. Thought it might help.
See ya!
Blake
White97SVT,
If yours just started shuddering after after 1000s of miles, you probably just need to change your fluid and put in lubegard. After you put in the new fluid, and lubegard it will take several TCC applies before the clutch soaks up the new fluid. Your best bet is to have it flushed out with the fluid of your choice. This way ALL of the old burnt fluid gets flushed out. Just dropping the pan leaves some fluid in the TC then this dilutes the new fluid and you run the risk of the shudder coming back. I had problems with my TC since it was installed. It was dumping metal into the cooler and tranny. I doubt if this is your problem unless you have a bunch of metal on the magnet in your pan. I would have as much as a 1/4" of metal on the magnet in as little as 30 miles. I was advised this was normal break-in. This is not normal break in. Unless you see this, a fluid change will most likely fix you up. The lubegard penetrates the paper frictions on the clutches and the band and helps rejuvinate its friction properties.
One other thing I saw was kinda cool but only works if you have an aux cooler somewhere and a soft return line you can loosen. You can do a regular tranny pan drop kinda fluid change, then fill it back up. Then, have some one help you by starting the truck while you have your return line(after the coolers on the way back to the tranny,this is the top line) in a catch pail. They start the truck. Let it run for 20 seconds. Turn it off. You should have pumped out at least a quart. Put another new quart of fluid in the tranny fill. Do this again till you've gone through 5 or 6 quarts. This works because the fluid that you are removing just came from the torque converter so you will be purging out the rest of the bad fluid that was in the coverter and the coolers. Don't mean to repeat it, but the fluid goes from the TC to the cooler and then back to the tranny. HTH.
SY2185,
You may have been able to work out something by letting them diagnose the tranny with it in the truck since it was under warranty. Then tell them that you would pull it and bring it back. Their problem is that the tranny you brought them may not be the one that you bought(fraud possiblity). I know to you it sounds rediculous because you would never do that, but it happens. If they would've seen that it was messed up and that you needed another one, you may have been able to work out something with the service manager. By telling them you would race it and blow it up with good parts in it didn't help and they will tell GM about it. Went through this on the Firebird I had that GM bought back as a Lemon. Racing came up several times because of the type of vehicle it was. Tell them you are doing it and you can forget any kind of warranty. Maybe try another dealer. If they ever pull one and come to you with a broken part and ask you what happen just tell them that you were trying to pull out of the drive through and bam. If you say that you were pulling away from the light red flags go up.
The sy's transfer case has a double roller chain of sorts in it. My sy's(the one that Jesse now drives)broke one side of the chain. Not the whole thing just one side. It actually did it while I was pulling out of the car wash. The service manager was actually salivating try to tell me that I broke it racing. I finally offered to take him to where the car wash was at and duplicate what I was doing when it happened and asked him if spraying the underside of the truck with water from the car wash could have had anything to do with it. They fixed it and gave me no other grief. JUST DO NOT BRING UP RACING, PERIOD.
Just opinions. Just experienced a little of the stuff you guys are going through. Thought it might help.
See ya!
Blake
B
Blake
Guest
I'm working on it :wink:
Hell, you haven't even seen the post over on the super servo, cooler size thread....God. I'm signing off for the day!
Blake
Hell, you haven't even seen the post over on the super servo, cooler size thread....God. I'm signing off for the day!
Blake