tune up problems....

[U ONT 2]

Re: tune up problems....

I put in UR5's, like I took out.

There is a manual boost controller on fender wall above battery.

In one of the papers I found, its supposed to have 36lb injectors. (whats stock size?) It does have an adjustable fuel press regulator. Still don't know about fuel pump (stock or what). No gauge though. Im thinkin about an electric one inside cab.

My Type T uses a scanmaster. Does the SyTy use the same? Or what?

Also, it is supposed to have a ATR add on intercooler. Does anyone have any old ATR catalogs they can scan in for me?

 

[Fighting5thSVT]

Re: tune up problems....

Order a set from Adam, they will save you a lot of headache. They are precut, high quality silicone lines that should last for many years. Hell the factory ones were not this nice, some guys have bought silicone hose by the foot at parts stores only to have it colapse after one or two drives. Go to powertuneplus.com, this is one of the most informative sites you will find about these trucks.

I just put my vac set in today.....that set is NICE!!! No headaches--which is a first for me :tup:

 

[Josh Young]

Re: tune up problems....

You said it had an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I bet it has a Walbro fuel pump or some kind of high volume pump. With stock trucks running stock fuel pumps being maxed out, why would you have an AFPR if it did not have a bigger FP? The aluminum intercooler tank to turbo hose looks like it's barely on there, see if you can get it fitting better. Probably not your problem but I would want it fitting better than it is. If you can't get that one to work Race Proven Motors sells these with 2 black nylon ends, they fit real nice too.

 

[U ONT 2]

Re: tune up problems....

OK. I just talked to the builder of the brick. He said it does have an Walbro pump. It also has a roller cam in it. All the other parts are ATR also. Im gonna has the tranny flushed and see where we are sitting after that.

 

[turbodig]

Re: tune up problems....

I was wondering about this myself as both of my valve covers are leaking from the rear. I know on the driver's side I will need to remove the hard coolant line to the upper CAC and the TV cable. To remove the passenger's side valve cover, I will need to drain and remove the upper CAC. I can't remember what else is in the way.

It's not *so* bad...

Assuming stock brackets/etc:


Disconnect battery.

Driver side:

Remove breather hoses and filler neck. Unplug temp sensor on driver's side head.

Remove clamp that holds brake booster hose onto manifold. Remove hose and swivel it out of the way.

Pop MAP sensor out with a couple of screwdrivers. Unplug hose and wiring.

Pull wires to coil and coil wire. Depending on how long your plug wires are, you may need to remove these as well. (Generally easier if you do)

Connector and hoses to EGR solenoid

Small bolt that holds IC hard pipe to bracket

Remove 2 nuts that hold coil/EGR bracket. Remove assembly.

Remove valve cover bolts.

You *may* need to remove the bolt that holds the other hard line to the front of the intake, as you have to jockey the cover around that pipe a bit to get it out.


Passenger:

Drain IC, remove IC. 3 bolts on the bottom of the IC, big TB hose clamp, hose clamps at rear of IC.

Remove PVC hose assembly.

Remove nuts that hold the IC brackets to the exhaust manifold studs. (You'll be glad you did later)
Remove nut holding center IC bracket on.

Remove spark plug wires from plugs and flip them out of the way.

Unplug o2 sensor plug.

Remove valve cover bolts.

Pull heater hose around the front of the cover as you lift the cover up.


Reverse to assemble...