Typhoon #242 Refresh

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

I auto crossed the Ty earlier this year and pretty much since then haven't driven it. The belt broke a week or two after autocross and then the second electric fan died. So its been 5 months or so that the poor Ty was sitting outside with no love. A couple of weekends ago though, I got to pull the Ty into my garage for the first time since I've owned it. I had a Vette that I was restoring and I sold it.

I think I'm going to name this project "ReDrive". As my refresh got the truck on the road but really was in no condition to go far. This time I'm going to take some time and make it right. I have several problems to address though before this thing goes back on the road.

Electrical
1. I've had a charging problem ever since moving the battery to the back. Basically the charge at the battery is somewhere around 12.6 - 12.8, engine running. I believe the issue is a ground problem and may have contributed to the electric fans dying. I'm going to run a ground wire from the negative terminal on the battery all the way to the engine. Hope this works
2. Replace fans
3. Maybe this will finally make the MSD start working too.

Engine
1. Change cooling systems to anti-freeze from just water. Gets too hot here.
2. Motor Mounts need to be replaced. Gonna go solid. The crossover pipe hits the steering linkage.
3. Exhaust leak at waste gate. Flange size is bigger than 38mm. Will have a new flange welded on.
4. Turbo oil leak. Its not bad, but should be addressed. Just simply have noticed a bit of residue on the drain pipe.
5. Oil pan leak. I think this is really coming from the turbo drain pipe inlet right at the entry to the oil pan. Saw it once before, but its still there and I'd like to fix it permanently.
6. Gas Smell. When the engine is running it smells like gas so bad you will smell like it after just sitting in it for a minute or more.
7. Idle issues. After its warmed up, the truck will just shut off. Starts back up, no problem. Put it in reverse or drive it dies as well. This is especially frustrating when you are stopped at a light or in traffic....gotta go two foot'n.
8. No boost. This should be simple. I need to purchase a stock boost solenoid and hook it up.

Drivetrain, Steering and Suspension
1. Front diff leak. Not sure if its just a seal or if there is anything wrong. I'll need to remove and inspect.
2. Suspension bushings are original and well worn. Its time. The driver side ball joint is completely toast, and I can see cracking in all the rubber bushings....if not chunks missing.
3. Steering components need a thorough inspection and likely replaced.
4. Rear axle is too far forward on passenger side. I really need to inspect, take apart and fix. The ride is really rough in the rear, may replace the springs with drop springs instead of the blocks that are in there.

Brakes
1. Proportioning value. This would be great. I've bleed the brakes a ton and still the rears barely do much at all
2. Need to check front pads.

Interior
1. Horn. Wife says the horn must be working. This should be simple. I think all I need is a horn wire, as the aftermarket steering wheel simply doesn't have it in there.
2. Gauges. I'd love to finally get a boost gauge. I'd also like to hook up wide band on the truck. Down the line... temp sensor for trans and engine.
3. Speakers, I have an awesome deck and only speakers in the rear, time to fix that.

Tuning
1. I'll need to get a OBD1 to USB cable and some software.
2. Currently have the ultimate chip, I'd like to upgrade. Probably TT as it seems to be up my ally with my goals for the Ty.
3. Wide band. Probably PLX

The REAL question
Considering the fixes that I need to do: the oil pan leak, front diff leak, and engine mounts; my thoughts are it might be best to pull the motor and give myself the ease of access. So with all that, I'm thinking I should probably start with a compression check. Why, cause if its all good, great maybe no pull and if not, I'm definitely pulling the motor. Would you guys pull it with those fixes in mind?
 

SEL777

One of 101
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

It looks like you have a good list, now you can make you plan of attack. Good luck, I'll be following this thread.
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Made some progress this weekend. I went to do a compression check, and found I would only be able to do about 3 cylinders because of the ATR headers. Ended up giving up and not doing it at all because I found the source of my oil leak. I thought it was from the pan but instead it appears to be from the rear part of the passenger side head gasket. After seeing that and knowing the other jobs that need to be done, I made the decision, right or wrong, to remove the engine.

Tear down has been going well. I was able to remove the inner fender wells, turbo, part of the down pipe, upper intercooler, lower heat exchanger, passenger side header, and radiator. Next up will be a tool to remove the power steering pulley and the accessories. After that the drivers side header.

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Now that I know I have to pull the heads, I'm quite seriously considering a Vortec Head swap. I realize this is not the easiest of tasks, nor the cheapest. I could just pull the head and replace the gasket, but with the engine out and this always being a some day goal...why not now. If I follow through, I will not see the full potential, as I will not be changing the cam, that will have to be another day down the line. I have friend that can do the lower intake and I'll have to pony up for getting the heads drilled and lower intake leveled. I'll reuse everything else, rockers, springs, pushrods. Since no cam change, its just a swap. With the added airflow I know I'll need bigger injectors as not to be slower on the top end, so that's where the last bit of my budget will go...maybe a christmas present, we'll see.
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Its out. After some cursing, a little blood, and maybe a tear...the engine is on the stand. Couple things learned. GM strapped ALL wires to the back of the engine, fuel lines are a pita and o yeah, don't forget to disconnect the heater hose :banghead:

My worst mistake was not realizing the big wire loom on the back was still attached in one spot on the passenger head and ended up pulling the wire hard enough that it pulled the bundle out from the firewall and yanked the wires pretty good out of the dash. I'll have to check it all out and hope I didn't damage anything.

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Reason I pulled it: Bad motor mount and oil leak in the rear passenger head.

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coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Question: Since the frame pad is solid, can I just get solid motor mount pads? Or is it best to get new solid frame pads as well?

I'm thinking I'm going to work on the engine first and leave all the other projects alone for right now. That way I finish it and don't have several projects going on with the truck at once.
 

gringo76

New member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Its out. After some cursing, a little blood, and maybe a tear...the engine is on the stand. Couple things learned. GM strapped ALL wires to the back of the engine, fuel lines are a pita and o yeah, don't forget to disconnect the heater hose :banghead:

My worst mistake was not realizing the big wire loom on the back was still attached in one spot on the passenger head and ended up pulling the wire hard enough that it pulled the bundle out from the firewall and yanked the wires pretty good out of the dash. I'll have to check it all out and hope I didn't damage anything.

9EDC286A-8918-4772-994C-A4E7D8A9F027_zps5ao6ascj.jpg


3FA18C37-C142-41FB-8A8C-96AD7072DA65_zpsldgdjt9o.jpg




Reason I pulled it: Bad motor mount and oil leak in the rear passenger head.

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2A6A5B49-2453-464E-96EB-A2EEB01987A8_zpspem6ixxe.jpg

doesn't matter now but you think it might have been the rear of the intake that might have been leaking and running down the back of the heads? either way might as well go threw it now
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Yep, leak was from the rear of the manifold. O well, glad I pulled it. I did a complete rebuild on the motor and pulled the trigger on the Vortec heads too.
My stock block rebuild here: http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=103742

Still a lot of things on the list to complete though. I was able tear down the engine bay a bit more as I prep to install a lot of new items.
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Next on the list is to remove the front diff, then clean and paint the frame up front.
Then clean, seal and paint the front diff. It has a leak on the driver side. Not sure if I should just take it all apart and paint the housing and then put it back together. I guess I'll look at it closer when its out of the truck.
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Been a few months and I have been a busy boy with this truck.

Got the front diff out and re-sealed everything. Didn't paint the housing itself, but everything else was done.

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While the diff was out I prepped the frame for coilovers, then sanded and painted the frame

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I had already painted the frame by the time I figured out I had to widen the shock tower to fit the coil overs. That was a terrible experience frankly. I did not want to do the install in this method, but would need to either use a different coil over or get tubular arms. I opted to use my BFH. It worked and now that the metal is cleaned, ground smooth, and painted, it doesn't bother me as much.
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Control arms painted, energy suspension bushings installed, all new ball joints installed, center link cleaned painted and installed, new ZQ8 steering box installed, new inner and outer tie rods installed, coil overs installed along with baer brakes.
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Motor back from fabricators. Installed heads, push rods and factory vortec rocker arms. Reinstalled the oil pan with a one piece gasket. Re-used my rear main seal as it only had about 1000 miles on it. Addressed the turbo drain feed leak in the pan with an assortment of different gaskets/o rings I had...hope it works, will do something different if not.
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New remote filter lines and adapter o-rings. Solid Motor mounts were installed as I put the motor back in
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When I removed the balancer I made a mistake and did not use the correct removal tool, my inexperience combined with Advance Auto Parts stupidity in not providing the correct tool for the job resulted in some of the threads on the inside of the crank to strip. I ended up using a TimeSert insert and it worked great. Expensive, but you can truly apply all the torque necessary for this bolt. I also picked up an ARP crank bolt.

check out the Hot Rod article that turned me on to this method http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-repair-crankshaft-threads/

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More updates to comes, wish me luck
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

More progress on getting this thing together.
Before motor was put in I drilled a hole in the frame and ran the power wire for the starter all the way back to a remote solenoid and grounded the battery to the body and frame. Makes for a very clean install and I should never have the purple wire issue.
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After motor was back in I hustled to get things done.
I started with installing the intake, nervously applying torque to each bolt. Forgetting atv and having to install the heads again.
installed fuel rail and 80lb injectors
reinstalled all the accessories, along with a new alternator and water pump.
installed new sheetmetal valve covers, since my old ones would not fit with the roller rockers.
also had the valve covers welded for a catch can.
new alternator because the new valve covers hit the positive post. The alternator is made for more of an original truck.
reinstalled the wiring harness and had fun wiring in a sensor wire. Even put in a diode for the MSD.
I wrapped the headers and used some aluminum header gaskets. I just don't like the work required to keep the copper gaskets sealed properly.
Had the turbo rebuilt by Mike Turbo in Miami. Hoping thats all good. Its a 60-1 P-Trim.
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Front core support went back on therefore the radiator too. New electric fans installed.
Also installed the SM hose kit and plumbed up the a/c and trans cooler
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Just sitting on the springs she sits pretty low. I've turned the springs up a bit now and will get a pic later on.
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I've moved on a bit even from the above photos. I'm actually at the point of starting the truck, but no dice yet, because of a fuel leak....aka I found the smell from the earlier post. I'm definitely disappointed as I had wanted to get the truck over to the shop so a custom catch can could be made this week, but looks like I'll be researching and upgrading the fuel system sooner than planned.
 
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