Re: What did you do to your SY/TY today?
Well, I wish I could do this in one day "what did you do to your SyTy today" as in the Title, if this don’t belong here since it has taken longer than a day, let me know!
New Belltech drop leafs, quality product, extra attention to shipping, nice company
Jagsthatrun assortment of angle shims, setback, u-bolts that are heavy duty and “sing” like high strength steel, and super long nuts, again another good company to deal with.
KYB Mono-max shocks (tried and liked Biltsteins, just testing another).
Plastidip spray underside, frame/chassis/lines etc. Since under 20k miles and no winters, seal it up some more while its good to do it, sticks well to even tar undercoating already there.
RPM/Bell Tech rear sway bar, Krytox RFE synthetic PFPE lube on urethane surfaces, mounted and awaiting placement on wheels to tighten bolts in place. Another nice piece though directions are not usable/picture provides no details!
Raybesto’s best drums, cleaned, acid etched primed, epoxy coated satin black, Raybestos Super Stop shoes, new hardware, Permatex new Ceramic Extreme brake parts synthetic lube (good for 2,800 F).
PBR drilled slotted rotors (just to keep heat levels down, no not better at stopping), Jet Hot coat caliper, Akibono Pads, new hardware, same Permatex synthetic grease, to compress piston; bled fluid at calipers, and flushed those line for now, (real brake bleed later).
Already have all MOOG problem solvers for all associated front suspension parts.
Drain and flush rear diff, new cast aluminum cover/epoxy painted, Red Line Shock Proof gear lube, proper preloaded bearing case’s via new cover bolts.
Vacuum pump evacuation of front diff, fill, rotate and repeat, fill and check level, Red Line Shock Proof gear lube.
New U-Joints on driveshaft, high polished yoke.
Clean off surface rust and any run-out grease, acid etch prime, epoxy coat intermediate shaft, inspect rubber; no degradation at this age, grease with needle fitting, clean-flat matting surfaces and retain reference marks for installing correctly back into truck.
New transmission cooling lines, new fuel lines to the end of tranny attachments, all covered in ceramic/silicone Thermo-Sleeve, extra fasteners and attachments to avoid vibration potential.
Flushed, then added new power steering lines.
All new wire looms in engine bay area (short sentence, LOTS of work!).
Refresh engine, no way I got time to list all those parts, basics are Moldex crank, Oliver rods, JE pistons/rings/pins, Comp Cams cam and pushrods, Crane (who?) gold roller rockers, SpeedPro lifters, Melling’s higher price for same but proper built oil pump, Cloyes Cam-Adjust timing gears, ARP fasteners throughout less OEM has better, Victor/FelPro/GM/etc gaskets, o-rings and seals, hoses, flushed and flow balanced injectors, new FPR, all new sensors, high output polished water pump, billet MSD distributor, etc.
New AC Compressor, new Power Steering Pump, new high output chrome alternator, newer high-torque starter, etched and epoxy painted brackets.
Refresh 700R4, combo’s differ, but plenty of research including Digs recommendations, new case, all new hard parts (nothing reused, and I mean nothing!), new valve body, new linkage, blue II clutches, 9/11 locking, sensible shifts, not shockingly harsh! B&M 26,000 GVW aux cooler with thermostat.
New Red Line high-temp ATF to transfer case when I bought the truck, and again now that it is out. Seals all still tight.
New mounts for engine (heat shield added, all new bolts of course) tranny and transfer case however it works.
Sanded and/or sand blasted, etched aluminum and/or acid etched then epoxy painted most everything else.
New oil cooler lines and mount.
Stereo and security system and gauges and remote radar/laser detector etc already done before this freshening of the truck.
More done and still much left to do as in assemble all those engine and tranny parts, rebuild and port turbo, flush tank/lines and new fuel filter, long list of more to do but getting closer so I say, though it don’t feel that way :rant:.
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