G
Guest
Guest
Whats the best way to get to the 4 main bolts
that hold the turbo on?
that hold the turbo on?
Daron
Active member
First off, whenever working on a SyTy, you must bust a knuckle open and bleed on the truck immediately, to show it you are serious. After that go ahead and invest in a set of "stubby" metric wrenches. These are almost half the length of normal open/box end wrenches and will allow easy access to the top two nuts on the turbo.
Good luck,
myclone
Donating Member
Ughh... This brings back memories... Daron is correct on the bloody knuckles.
I had probs getting the nuts off mine. Some ppl said they didnt have any trouble.
I have to agree with the stubby wrenches working the best. I didnt have a set of em at the time and had to bend a reg sized wrench with a torch to get it to work.
I had to use above said torch to heat 2 of the four nuts to get them off also.
Best thing I can tell you is to go easy on them and "feel" how they are coming off. If they break loose and go a few turns then tighten up again your going to have to coax them off.
Run the nut(s) back down tight and try some lubricant (WD-40 didnt work for me I used a little 90w gear oil)and then try to get them off again. Try heat if they are still stubborn. I ended up using a combination of the two but still managed to snap one stud.
They can be a pain even if the nuts come off easy as they arent the biggest pleasure to get a wrench/socket on..
HTH...
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: myclone on 2001-08-23 23:08 ]</font>
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, since I haven't looked at the turbo-exhaust flange lately. Perhaps removing the studs from the exhaust housing and using socket head cap screws instead would make life a little less bloody. That is, if there is adequate clearance for an alan wrench. Like I said, I haven't looked lately and this option might be unreasonable. But next time I change turbos I will explore the option...
Brandon
ASM Sy #1151
Brandon
ASM Sy #1151
myclone
Donating Member
I thought about the socket heads too. If I remember right the two closest to the eng will require either a "stubby" allen wrench or one that you can shorten enough to fit..
The next thing that worried me was having enough clearance to actualy turn the wrench to get the bolts loose. If they are tight or stubborn (from the heat/rust) the allen wrench may flex to much and hit something before the bolt(s) break loose.
I had the right sized hex bolts on hand so thats what I put back in (I swapped to a diff turbo and the factory studs were too short to work)...
I have the right sized socket head bolts now so when the turbo comes off again Im going to see if they will work.
If you try them and they seem to be ok let me know...
The next thing that worried me was having enough clearance to actualy turn the wrench to get the bolts loose. If they are tight or stubborn (from the heat/rust) the allen wrench may flex to much and hit something before the bolt(s) break loose.
I had the right sized hex bolts on hand so thats what I put back in (I swapped to a diff turbo and the factory studs were too short to work)...
I have the right sized socket head bolts now so when the turbo comes off again Im going to see if they will work.
If you try them and they seem to be ok let me know...
G
Guest
Guest
yes, My problem is the top left nut. I can get the wrench on it but can get leverage because my downpipe is in the way. Would taking my downpipe out help. Or is moving the a/c compressor the best choice?
IF you are trying to take off the turbo, then you should remove the downpipe first. It helps alot on that top-left nut. I usually get the top right nut through the top. I stick my arm in where the rad. fan is and snake in a 15mm wrench. I think the bottom two nuts can be removed with a socket and an extension. If the oil return line is in the way, then unbolt it to get your nut off....hehehe. Oh, it helps to have a person with small hands to help you.
later
jordan
later
jordan