WTB - Proper PCV

blacktyaffair

Donating Member
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

:oops: would have helped if I reread the thread again. Sorry for pulling a Ken....lol.

Last edited by 13Pelle; Today at 11:13 AM. Reason: grammer/spelling is not my friend...

Grammar? Fixed a fail with a fail. :rotf:

Ken, I'm still not convinced the crossover offers enough vacuum to open up a pcv valve. I need to go buy some hose to run to a vac gauge inside the cab and check it. Even if it did have plenty of vacuum to open the pcv valve I still don't think it would be enough to clear the crankcase of any positive pressure. Until I check it I guess for now it's just my :2cents:
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

Both PCV valves are the same part number. 799c will have an E stamped inthe bottom.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

Grammar? Fixed a fail with a fail. :rotf:

Ken, I'm still not convinced the crossover offers enough vacuum to open up a pcv valve. I need to go buy some hose to run to a vac gauge inside the cab and check it. Even if it did have plenty of vacuum to open the pcv valve I still don't think it would be enough to clear the crankcase of any positive pressure. Until I check it I guess for now it's just my :2cents:

At idle maybe not so much but the turbo can cause people to have their silicone hose couplers compress in and block up with too much suction when at higher RPM so it's quite effective.
 

blacktyaffair

Donating Member
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

At idle maybe not so much but the turbo can cause people to have their silicone hose couplers compress in and block up with too much suction when at higher RPM so it's quite effective.

This keeps getting brought up as proof of sufficient vacuum. I personally take it as a sign of a restrictive air intake, air filter or both.

Even if the air intake has enough vacuum to collapse a hose, I don't think it would clear the crankcase of sufficient positive pressure to help the piston rings seal any better. And if your intake is collapsing hoses you have other problems to address. Once again, just my lowly :2cents:
 

randy merritt

Donating Member
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

Just received two that I ordered from amazon. easy order, quick shipping. ACDelco CV799C. Just installed with my new PCV setup using a air/oil separator from Jegs. Pics from Icarus-54 were a great help.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

This keeps getting brought up as proof of sufficient vacuum. I personally take it as a sign of a restrictive air intake, air filter or both.

Even if the air intake has enough vacuum to collapse a hose, I don't think it would clear the crankcase of sufficient positive pressure to help the piston rings seal any better. And if your intake is collapsing hoses you have other problems to address. Once again, just my lowly :2cents:

If there is a greater pressure in the crank case, those valves open. There's no spring, it's the lightest of touches that causes them to open or close.

A vacuum is unnecessary - the pressure differential need only be tiny to open/close it. If the suction causes a low pressure then great but if the positive pressure of the crank is too high then the valve will open. Pistons are working at 150 psi with no ignition so maybe 600-1000 psi with the ignition firing (total guess) so I doubt most people are going to care about .1 (a tenth) of a psi....

:D
 

mattw

Active member
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

So what exactly makes a syty PCV valve different from any other PCV valve? Is there just a check valve built into it so that boost does no get blown back into the crankcase? If thats it is there any reason I can not just put a check valve in line before the PCV valve and use a standard PCV valve?
 

MAK

New member
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

I also need (2) of these valves. Does anyone still have extras?

The PCV going to the TB has no stamp and the PCV that was going to the stock crossover tube has an "F" on it. I am installing the RPM CAI and the front PCV off the metal "T" with the "F" will not be used. Only the rear will be hooked up to the TB. I have a small K&N filter for the driver side.

What is the final opinions on what to do with the PCV going to the stock crossover tube? Should I remove the "T" and plug the rear PCV into the valve cover or should I keep the "T", run the rear PCV to the TB and put another K&N filter in the crossover tube end?

To make things more complicated, I have an oil catch can I will be using. Should I put it in between the TB and the rear PCV or somewhere else?

The more I look into this the more confused I get. I do not want to mess up the vacuum system (if there is one).

Maybe this will clarify a few concerns for others.
 

anryo

Donating Member
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

Does anybody have 2pcs OEM PCV valves #CV799C they are willing to sell and post to Estonia? :p
Payment will be done with Paypal.
 
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berzerker

wookie
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

i tried to purchase some recently . no luck .. sportmachines.com might be your best luck .
 

anryo

Donating Member
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

Let me see if I can post a link. If it does not post. Look in Rock auto it shows a Fram and another brand that are for our trucks only. Fram part is FV386.
http://prntscr.com/9yftij
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1164440&parttype=5052
Looks like it works. Second link takes you right to them in the Rock Auto web site. I don't know if they will send to your area.
I bought the Fram PCV and they "blow by" a little and do not shut completely.
 

Davemc1963

93 Ty Owner
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

Anryo,
Have you tried cleaning them?
The best product I have found (and used for years) for cleaning PCV's and anything else with engine gunk is WD40. It is one the few things that that it is good at!
That and removing tar from paintwork. Dont ever try to use a solvent cleaner on PCV's, as all it does is dry out the gunk and make it impossible to shift.
Best to buy it in 5L /gallon containers and leave it to soak, then fill them, shake them with your fingers covering both ends and flush them through. Usually works a treat.
Unless the springs are shot, its worth a go and have the WD40 in for other 'cleaning jobs' later. Others may find the above useful, if they haven't used it for cleaning engine parts before. It does evaporate and 'wax off' though, so be mindful of that.
 

anryo

Donating Member
Re: WTB - Proper PCV

Anryo,
Have you tried cleaning them?
The best product I have found (and used for years) for cleaning PCV's and anything else with engine gunk is WD40. It is one the few things that that it is good at!
That and removing tar from paintwork. Dont ever try to use a solvent cleaner on PCV's, as all it does is dry out the gunk and make it impossible to shift.
Best to buy it in 5L /gallon containers and leave it to soak, then fill them, shake them with your fingers covering both ends and flush them through. Usually works a treat.
Unless the springs are shot, its worth a go and have the WD40 in for other 'cleaning jobs' later. Others may find the above useful, if they haven't used it for cleaning engine parts before. It does evaporate and 'wax off' though, so be mindful of that.

Well, to start from the beginning - I had only one PCV installed on the truck when I bought it... So I need anyway the second.
And yes, I tried the cleaning with solvent and carb cleaner. But you might be right - I did not left it soaking for longer period or didn't didn't use WD40. I will try this, to see if I can get my only PCV work properly.
 
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