How to check coil with Volt Meter?
- Thread starter Hu Ryde
- Start date
Will_in_China
Truckless Wonder
I thought you said OIL, I was about to FREAK OUT, dude...
-W
-W
SY2932
Administrator
According to my Haynes repair manual for S-10 and S-15 pick-ups, a test lead to one of the terminals and the other to ground should read infinite resistance at all times. Flexing the leads will reveal if there are any intermittent opens. Connecting the test leads to both terminals should read a steady value between 500 and 1500 ohms. Bear in mind, these values *might* be different for sytys... HTH's
Mike Campbell
Mike Campbell
Will_in_China
Truckless Wonder
Hu Ryde said:Will_in_Denver said:
Dude! You didn't know you could check your oil like that?
Holy Viscosity BatMan!
ed hess
race or get outta the way
from the cd
6E3-C4-4 4.3L TURBO (VIN Z) DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS
V3211
CHART C-4C
IGNITION SYSTEM CHECK
(REMOTE COIL)
4.3L TURBO (VIN Z) SYCLONE AND TYPHOON (PORT)
ule from the “BATT” to the “TACH” terminal. Test Description: Numbers below refer to circled
numbers on the diagnostic chart.
1. Two wires are checked to ensure that an open is
not present in a spark plug wire.
1A. If spark occurs with 4 terminal distributor
connector disconnected, pick-up coil output is too
low for EST operation.
2. A spark indicates the problem must be the
distributor cap or rotor.
3. Normally, there should be battery voltage at the
“C” and “+” terminals. Low voltage would
indicate an open or a high resistance circuit from
the distributor to the coil or ignition switch. If “C”
terminal voltage was low, but “+” terminal
voltage is 10 volts or more, circuit from “C”
terminal to ignition coil or ignition coil primary
winding is open.
5. Applying voltage (1.5 to 8 volts) to module
terminal “P” should turn the module “ON” and the
tachometer terminal voltage should drop to about
7-9 volts. This test will determine whether the
module or coil is faulty or if the pick-up coil is not
generating the proper signal to turn the module
“ON.” This test can be performed by using a DC
battery with a rating of 1.5 to 8 volts. The use of
the test light is mainly to allow the “P” terminal to
be probed more easily.
4. Check for a shorted module or grounded circuit
from the ignition coil to the module. The distributor
module should be turned “OFF.” Normal voltage
should be about 12 volts.
Some digital multi-meters can also be used to
trigger the module by selecting ohms, usually the
diode position. In this position the meter may
have a voltage across its terminals which can be
used to trigger the module. The voltage in the
ohms position can be checked by using a second
meter or by checking the manufacturer’s
specification of the tool being used.
If the module is turned “ON,” the voltage
would be low, but above 1 volt. This could cause
the ignition coil to fail from excessive heat.
With an open ignition coil primary winding, a
small amount of voltage will leak through the mod-
6. This should turn “OFF” the module and cause a
spark. If no spark occurs, the fault is most likely
in the ignition coil because most module problems
would have been found before this point in the
procedure. A module tester (J 24642-F) could determine
which is at fault.
hope this helps
ed
6E3-C4-4 4.3L TURBO (VIN Z) DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS
V3211
CHART C-4C
IGNITION SYSTEM CHECK
(REMOTE COIL)
4.3L TURBO (VIN Z) SYCLONE AND TYPHOON (PORT)
ule from the “BATT” to the “TACH” terminal. Test Description: Numbers below refer to circled
numbers on the diagnostic chart.
1. Two wires are checked to ensure that an open is
not present in a spark plug wire.
1A. If spark occurs with 4 terminal distributor
connector disconnected, pick-up coil output is too
low for EST operation.
2. A spark indicates the problem must be the
distributor cap or rotor.
3. Normally, there should be battery voltage at the
“C” and “+” terminals. Low voltage would
indicate an open or a high resistance circuit from
the distributor to the coil or ignition switch. If “C”
terminal voltage was low, but “+” terminal
voltage is 10 volts or more, circuit from “C”
terminal to ignition coil or ignition coil primary
winding is open.
5. Applying voltage (1.5 to 8 volts) to module
terminal “P” should turn the module “ON” and the
tachometer terminal voltage should drop to about
7-9 volts. This test will determine whether the
module or coil is faulty or if the pick-up coil is not
generating the proper signal to turn the module
“ON.” This test can be performed by using a DC
battery with a rating of 1.5 to 8 volts. The use of
the test light is mainly to allow the “P” terminal to
be probed more easily.
4. Check for a shorted module or grounded circuit
from the ignition coil to the module. The distributor
module should be turned “OFF.” Normal voltage
should be about 12 volts.
Some digital multi-meters can also be used to
trigger the module by selecting ohms, usually the
diode position. In this position the meter may
have a voltage across its terminals which can be
used to trigger the module. The voltage in the
ohms position can be checked by using a second
meter or by checking the manufacturer’s
specification of the tool being used.
If the module is turned “ON,” the voltage
would be low, but above 1 volt. This could cause
the ignition coil to fail from excessive heat.
With an open ignition coil primary winding, a
small amount of voltage will leak through the mod-
6. This should turn “OFF” the module and cause a
spark. If no spark occurs, the fault is most likely
in the ignition coil because most module problems
would have been found before this point in the
procedure. A module tester (J 24642-F) could determine
which is at fault.
hope this helps
ed
ed hess
race or get outta the way
just tested my coil which i dont know if its causing my problems using the chilton book.
see page 2-9 and 2-10
test one my meter shows 0.l
test 2 my meter shows 1.4
test 3 my meter shows 8.94K
Now the question is: IS this coil any good?
I asume test one result means infinite as it should be
test 2 should read low ....looks low to me
test 3 they says it should not read infinite: the idiot who wrote the book doesnt say if 8.94K is high enough. It just says it should not read infinite.
anybody witha chilton book got nothin to do but grab a meter and test their coil?
ed
see page 2-9 and 2-10
test one my meter shows 0.l
test 2 my meter shows 1.4
test 3 my meter shows 8.94K
Now the question is: IS this coil any good?
I asume test one result means infinite as it should be
test 2 should read low ....looks low to me
test 3 they says it should not read infinite: the idiot who wrote the book doesnt say if 8.94K is high enough. It just says it should not read infinite.
anybody witha chilton book got nothin to do but grab a meter and test their coil?
ed